So scoggins, where did you get your engineering degree?

this is exactally what i did, just becareful of rust dont want any of them chunks getting chewd up by the turbo.

on a side note, i saw a little honeycomb device that sat directly infront of the compressor wheel, and it said it kept the air flowing straight into the turbo and inhibited the natural sprial effect caused by the turbo. is this device BS or is it a good idea in "theroy"?

heres the pic of the device

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d7.../honeycomb.jpg

NoChrome, I hadn't thought about rust. It's a new pipe and isn't rusty yet, but I'll keep an eye on it. I'm now thinking of giving a good coat of paint to prevent it from rusting.

Try a Google search on "honeycomb flow straightener" and you'll see that the technology is commonly used in aerospace, wind tunnel and similar applications.

The industrial engines built by our company carry an engineering standard for installation. This standard requires a minimum of 5 diameters (5d) of straight pipe ahead of the inlet to each turbocharger compressor to ensure non-turbulent flow. If this cannot be achieved, the use of flow straightening devices is required. Among these are the turning vanes discussed earlier. The honeycomb device in question meets this criteria if the thickness of the device is 5 times or more the individual cell effective diameter. In other words, each cell acts like a length of straight pipe that is 5d (or more) long. This minimizes turbulence before the air enters the turbocharger impeller.

No, unlike the Tornado, this device isn't snake oil. It's based on sound, proven engineering technology. I have one in my truck (see the TAG - Turbo Air Guide - in my signature). With the BHAF, it reduced turbo whine by probably 70 to 80 percent and eliminated a turbo flow instability problem experienced at high accelerator pedal positions in 6th gear at around 2300 RPM when towing up steep grades.

Rusty

Honeycomb
 

That looks good, but in the plants I've worked in my whole carrier, all flow meters and compressor intakes are in a straight run, or have straightening vanes in the line 2 to 8 ft upstream to stablize the flow as much as possible before it hits the meter or the compressor intake. As said before, this keeps the compressor chewing on straight smooth flowing air. If you moved that out from 6" to a foot straight away, the flow leaving it would be smoother then they way you have it know. The ultimate of course being and 8in intake that came straight from the turbo and hung out past the grill for ram air with no bends, but that would look like crap. Welcome to the land of elbowed ducting. (I hope there is no flex to that baby, cuse I'd hate to see your turbo lung it. Is it a quality unit?)

it claims to be a stainless steel fully welded unit. and the piece im talking about is the same brand as rustys. I really like investing in innovative technology but im not nearly smart enough to know if all of its crap or the real deal, but now that i know its not crap i think i might put one on my wish list.

I pulled the silencer ring, took it for a ride and noticed a small drop in performance at the top end. I put the ring back in and got my performance back. I don't have a boost guage but was betting I lost boost without the ring. I think that ring increases the velocity into the turbo as air doesn't have to fight around the flat edges to get to the impeller.

I've been trying to find out why everyone says to remove it. Now my truck is absolutely bone stock, so maybe it makes a difference with aftermarket air cleaner and other mods.

I replaced the silencer ring yesterday because I had the same thoughts as you. I also replaced the straight plastic tube w/ baffles with a length of 5.5" aluminum tubing.

So now I've got the straight alum tubing, elbow without baffles/flow-straightener, and silencer ring back in. It really does whistle too. I think the increased noise is all in that straight alum tubing.

FYI, I also ordered the Airaid MIT tube (...can't...stop...mod'ing...), and when it arrived, I noticed it was 1.25" shorter than the stock intake tube. Called Airaid and they're puzzled. Their engineer called me and said he was going out to a dealership today to take apart a stock intake and compare. I'll keep everyone posted on that one.

Exactly!! It's no different than blowing black smoke out your exhaust pipe, which is nothing more than wasted fuel and horsepower. I'm convinced that the silencer ring also helps to direct the air where it needs to be, but I still took mine out because I like hearing that turbo sing [coffee]

fredbert,
sorry it took so long for me to get to this I misseed it earlier.
Common sense, rational thinking, and good old "HORSE SENSE" will get you alot further than an engineering degree!

Sorry if I stepped on toes with this statement.

I'd have to see some proof before I was convinced either way. As far as I have read there is no difference either way. Some of the old heads on the RV forum claim there is NO other reason for the introduction of the "silencer" ring other than customer complaints about in-cab sound levels. (back in the

That being said, mine is still in because I think it would be absolutely unbearable towing with the S&B intake. It's nice now, any more might be cause for complaints from the Mrs. [nonono]

Just tell her: Walking Ain't Crowded[laugh] [laugh] :o