its a myth, same has been said about bikes with wet clutches. If you use a fluid with additives to reduce friction like chrome molly it will build up in the clutch pacts and cause slipping. I have been using synthetics in my race bikes for years. My buddy is running over 400 hp in a drag bike using mobile 1 synthetic.

Synthetic is better for a number of reasons, it has a higher flash point so it will take more punishment before it burns up. Its cleaner so it wont embed any partials like tar and grit into he clutches. Last think of it like wet sand paper, you use water to clean the dirt out of the paper so it can cut better. Clean synthetic oil is the same way, since it contains less partials of dirt from the factory it can clean the clutch surface better. Good filters will help it stay clean and work better.

 

As stated, Mopar ATF +4 is synthetic, the problem and there is much written about this is that both Mobil and Amsoil are not ATF +4 approved. If you are under warranty it may be wise to stick to an ATF +4 spec fluid, there are many out there.

 

thanks. I thought the other posts were talking about the diff fluid. The Redline I got; C+ ATF, is +4 spec. Hope it helps because after driving today I have decided the synchro's are not working as they should.

 

Kurt, don't mean to be a stick in the mud however Redline states "Satisfies the performance requirements of Chrysler Types 7176 and ATF+4 (Type 9602)", I do not believe this is the same as approved or endorsed by DC. I believe that Mobil, Amsoil and Redline are all great products I would put in my truck, however if they are not certified to ATF +4 this could cause warranty issues. At the end of the day, under warranty, make sure the product you buy is certified to the spec required by the OEM. I once bought a case of Blue Marble 2 stroke oil for my snowmobile, read many articles in magazines that raved about it. They stated it exceeded TC-W3, the spec I needed to meet. Found out it was not certified to TC-W3. I called them and got a full refund since my sled was under warranty and needed to run on certified TC-W3. It may have been good oil, however it was not certified.

 

I personally don't usually give a rat sass about whether a product satisfies warranty requirements, but in this case, it sounds like your nice, new, very expensive truck has a problem that will likely get worse before it gets better. Best to stick with approved fluids until you get this problem resolved.