Steering upgrade install questions
#1
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Steering upgrade install questions
Can someone walk me thru step by step on this one. I assume I use the old nuts because the new setup didn't come with them and also assume torque specs are the same. It's been about ten years since I did front end work (tie rods, etc) and have all the tools... just need a little knowledge. How should I measure to get it close enough to safely drive to an alignment shop?
Thanks
Also, pickle fork Ok or should I borrow an air hammer with attachment?
Thanks
Also, pickle fork Ok or should I borrow an air hammer with attachment?
#2
Registered User
Are you just replacing the linkage? Or did you also get the new pitman arm? My advice, if you are using the old pitman arm, use a puller to get the pitman arm stud out, beating and prying on that one could damage your gear box. If you got the new pitman arm (drops at different angle so as not to contact lower linkage under full suspension compression), then get a good puller to get the old one off the sector shaft, and then just install the new arm and then linkage. To get the tie rod ends out of the knuckle i just tapped the top of the stud with a hammer and they dropped right out, no need for pickle fork. You are not supposed to re-use the nuts but i did, just added some high strength loc-tite and followed old torque specs, i think it was 80ft/lbs?.
In regards to alignment, only thing your worried about is toe. I lightly set my rotors on wood blocks (with jack still supporting axle) before removing the linkage so they couldn't move. Then just remove the old linkage and you can either measure or set the old linkage next to the new and adjust the new to be the same length. It should then fit into the knuckles without moving them and your fine to make it to the align. shop. Or you could try this
I did have some problems with the guys at the alignment shop though check out this old post....
Good Luck!
In regards to alignment, only thing your worried about is toe. I lightly set my rotors on wood blocks (with jack still supporting axle) before removing the linkage so they couldn't move. Then just remove the old linkage and you can either measure or set the old linkage next to the new and adjust the new to be the same length. It should then fit into the knuckles without moving them and your fine to make it to the align. shop. Or you could try this
I did have some problems with the guys at the alignment shop though check out this old post....
Good Luck!
#3
I just did the same last week. I suggest that buy the new pitman arm as there's a big angle difference.
I broke two pitman arm pullers trying to get the OEM off. I ended up having to make relief cuts to get it off with the 3rd puller.
Once you have the new linkage in, grab a buddy for help and measure rotor to rotor to adjust toe. I shoot for 1/16 to 1/8 toe in and then take it the pros for proper alignment.
I broke two pitman arm pullers trying to get the OEM off. I ended up having to make relief cuts to get it off with the 3rd puller.
Once you have the new linkage in, grab a buddy for help and measure rotor to rotor to adjust toe. I shoot for 1/16 to 1/8 toe in and then take it the pros for proper alignment.
#4
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I bought the new nuts and bolt to go with mine. I went by the alignment shop to see when he could schedule me in and he said that he would install it for me for $30. I'm going to let him put it on tomorrow. For $30 I don't even have to get my hands dirty.
Word to the wise if you decide to get the new nuts and bolt, when I went to buy the nuts and bolt, the dealership that I normally use didn't have them in stock so I called another dealership. This other dealership quoted me a price for the nuts and bolt that was twice the LIST price. No wonder so many call them stealerships. I ordered them from my usual dealer and got them the next day.
6502473---Bolt (1), to attach steering damper
6505623AA---Nuts (3), to attach new linkage
6502835---Nuts (2), to attach steering damper
Word to the wise if you decide to get the new nuts and bolt, when I went to buy the nuts and bolt, the dealership that I normally use didn't have them in stock so I called another dealership. This other dealership quoted me a price for the nuts and bolt that was twice the LIST price. No wonder so many call them stealerships. I ordered them from my usual dealer and got them the next day.
6502473---Bolt (1), to attach steering damper
6505623AA---Nuts (3), to attach new linkage
6502835---Nuts (2), to attach steering damper
#5
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Thread Starter
Just finished installing the new steering and have an appointment for 8am tomorrow for alignment. Took me 4 hours but I had to take off my dual Fox Defiant steering stabilizer setup and I really, really took my time. The tie rod ends popped loose very easily. Used the pitman arm puller on the drag link to pitman arm so I didn't have to beat on it. The only problem, if you can call it that, was the passenger side tie rod nut was spinning with the bolt the whole time so I had to hold back with a 10mm socket and use a LARGE crescent wrench to loosen nut (I don't have a 21mm open end wrench ). I'm going to order up the new nuts for the setup and replace the old ones in the future. As far as the new pitman arm... I really don't see the old one putting the link into that much of an angle... at least in my opinion. Anyway, thanks for the help and if anyone is worried about doing this install, if you are somewhat handy with a wrench, you'll have no problems.
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#9
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Per Don Thurens recommendation I installed Dodge's upgraded setup. I got if from Rip at Sourceautomotive.biz for $300 plus shipping. There are four grease fittings on new setup which is nice.
I like the dual Fox stabilizer from Defiant. It wasn't cheap but it's high quality. I don't think they even offer the Fox setup anymore but I could be wrong.
I used the pitman arm puller on the drag link going to the pitman arm so I didn't have to beat on it and possibly damage my steering gear. It popped right off nicely.
I like the dual Fox stabilizer from Defiant. It wasn't cheap but it's high quality. I don't think they even offer the Fox setup anymore but I could be wrong.
I used the pitman arm puller on the drag link going to the pitman arm so I didn't have to beat on it and possibly damage my steering gear. It popped right off nicely.
#11
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trik,
Replacing the pitman arm is not an option. It must be replaced when you go to the '08 linkage.
I waited on mine too and it looked like it was fine until I realized the drag link ball joint stud was hitting the tie rod when the suspension was compressed. You'll see. Look for a big scratch on the tie rod.
This setup is not a kit and therefore we have to get all the matching parts ourselves. The pitman arm was re-designed for the new linkage to avoid interference.
Replacing the pitman arm is not an option. It must be replaced when you go to the '08 linkage.
I waited on mine too and it looked like it was fine until I realized the drag link ball joint stud was hitting the tie rod when the suspension was compressed. You'll see. Look for a big scratch on the tie rod.
This setup is not a kit and therefore we have to get all the matching parts ourselves. The pitman arm was re-designed for the new linkage to avoid interference.
#13
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I don't remember. But I was glad I noticed it and I mentioned it over and over to everyone that was doing the conversion at the time.
To bad there's not a flag in the parts book to let everyone know the new pitman must be used with the new linkage.
That new linkage is nice. Beefy looking and better geometry.
To bad there's not a flag in the parts book to let everyone know the new pitman must be used with the new linkage.
That new linkage is nice. Beefy looking and better geometry.
#14
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Didn't read any of the early threads about this stuff so I wouldn't have known anyway.
New stuff sure is beefy compared to the old. Like an offensive linemen compared to a punter.
New stuff sure is beefy compared to the old. Like an offensive linemen compared to a punter.