P2609 Fault Code
P2609 Fault Code
I got a P2609 fault code (Intake Air Heater System Performance) over the weekend changing out my two batteries. Now it won't go away. How to I find what it really means and how do I fix it? My truck is 100% stock, that is why I'm asking this question in this forum and not in the high performance forum. I noticed it was answered their but that was because they had done some mods.
Given that you recently replaced the batteries,this may be related to a loose, broken or corroded wire(solenoid)connection at one of the battery terminals. Make sure you check each wire connected to the battery terminals and make sure they are tight and clean. Check the opposite ends of each battery cable, including the grounds.
The following information is the diagnostic literature regarding the P2609 fault code. This will help you pinpoint the issue.
WHEN MONITORED
First 15 seconds of engine operation.
SET CONDITION
The ECM does not detect a voltage drop on the intake air heater circuit.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
* Intake air heater open
* Intake air heater ground open
* Open battery cable from intake air heater relay
* Battery cable open
* #1 Intake air heater relay
* #2 Intake air heater relay
* Intermittent condition
Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding.
DIAGNOSTIC TEST
1. INTAKE AIR HEATER OPEN
Measure the resistance between the intake air heater supply and ground terminal on each intake air heater.
Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
YES: Go To 2
NO: Replace the open Intake Air Heater. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
2. INTAKE AIR HEATER GROUND OPEN
Measure the resistance of the intake air heater ground circuit between the intake air heater terminal and the intake manifold cover ground connection.
NOTE: The intake air heater circuit is grounded through a conductive gasket on the top and bottom of the air heater (grey colored gaskets).
Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
YES: Go To 3
NO: Repair the open Intake Air heater ground or replace both heater gaskets with the proper conductive gaskets. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
3. OPEN BATTERY CABLE FROM INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Measure the resistance of the battery cable between the intake air heater and the intake air heater relay for both intake air heaters.
Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
YES: Go To 4
NO: Repair The open or high resistance battery cable from the intake heater relay to heater. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
4. BATTERY CABLE OPEN
Measure the resistance of the battery cable between the battery and the intake air heater relay for both relays.
Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
YES: Go To 5
NO: Replace the battery cable from the battery to the Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
5. #1 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Disconnect the #1 intake air heater relay signal wire.
Connect a jumper wire from the signal terminal of the #1 intake air heater relay to battery positive.
Q: Did the relay click when 12 volts was applied?
YES: Go To 6
NO: Replace #1 Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
6. #2 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Disconnect the #2 intake air heater relay signal wire.
Connect a jumper wire from the signal terminal of the #2 intake air heater relay to battery positive.
Q: Did the relay click when 12 volts was applied?
YES: Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic Procedure). See: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview\Diagnostic Strategies
NO: Replace #2 Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
The following information is the diagnostic literature regarding the P2609 fault code. This will help you pinpoint the issue.
WHEN MONITORED
First 15 seconds of engine operation.
SET CONDITION
The ECM does not detect a voltage drop on the intake air heater circuit.
POSSIBLE CAUSES
* Intake air heater open
* Intake air heater ground open
* Open battery cable from intake air heater relay
* Battery cable open
* #1 Intake air heater relay
* #2 Intake air heater relay
* Intermittent condition
Always perform the Pre-Diagnostic Troubleshooting procedure before proceeding.
DIAGNOSTIC TEST
1. INTAKE AIR HEATER OPEN
Measure the resistance between the intake air heater supply and ground terminal on each intake air heater.
Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
YES: Go To 2
NO: Replace the open Intake Air Heater. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
2. INTAKE AIR HEATER GROUND OPEN
Measure the resistance of the intake air heater ground circuit between the intake air heater terminal and the intake manifold cover ground connection.
NOTE: The intake air heater circuit is grounded through a conductive gasket on the top and bottom of the air heater (grey colored gaskets).
Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
YES: Go To 3
NO: Repair the open Intake Air heater ground or replace both heater gaskets with the proper conductive gaskets. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
3. OPEN BATTERY CABLE FROM INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Measure the resistance of the battery cable between the intake air heater and the intake air heater relay for both intake air heaters.
Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
YES: Go To 4
NO: Repair The open or high resistance battery cable from the intake heater relay to heater. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
4. BATTERY CABLE OPEN
Measure the resistance of the battery cable between the battery and the intake air heater relay for both relays.
Q: Is the resistance less than 10 Ohms?
YES: Go To 5
NO: Replace the battery cable from the battery to the Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
5. #1 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Disconnect the #1 intake air heater relay signal wire.
Connect a jumper wire from the signal terminal of the #1 intake air heater relay to battery positive.
Q: Did the relay click when 12 volts was applied?
YES: Go To 6
NO: Replace #1 Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
6. #2 INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY
Disconnect the #2 intake air heater relay signal wire.
Connect a jumper wire from the signal terminal of the #2 intake air heater relay to battery positive.
Q: Did the relay click when 12 volts was applied?
YES: Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Symptom (Diagnostic Procedure). See: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview\Diagnostic Strategies
NO: Replace #2 Intake Air Heater Relay. Perform POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST VER - 1 (DIESEL). See: Verification Tests\Powertrain Verification Test - Ver 1
If I check all connections to and from the battery, will that clear the code? I don't have the ability to clear codes (and I can't get anyone to clear it for me, they all say go to the s-t-e-a-l-e-r-ship) or the ability to test anything electrical unfortunately. I know just enough about electrical to get me in trouble so I try to avoid it if I can. LOL
I can't believe it, you can't even type out the word in bold w/ out it being censored.
I can't believe it, you can't even type out the word in bold w/ out it being censored.
The code should disappear on its own after a few million on/off cycles. If you don't have a Smarty jr, smack yourself on the forehead now. Not only does it clear codes, it boosts mileage and improves performance. It also makes the truck 10 times more enjoyable to drive. Hands down it's the best mod for our truck.
EDIT: I just went out and cleared the code and restarted the truck. No code, and the voltage gauge shows the heater is drawing down the batteries just fine. Must be a fluke.
EDIT: I just went out and cleared the code and restarted the truck. No code, and the voltage gauge shows the heater is drawing down the batteries just fine. Must be a fluke.
If the issue is related the connections as noted in my prior post, you can also go to your local AutoZone or parts store and ask an associate to check and clear the codes for you. This is a free service that they offer.
As far as the derogatory use of the word dealership, this is not allowed as part of the forum rules when you signed up on the DTR. This site offers a wealth of technical information and costs you nothing to join. With that said, has it occurred to you that there are forum members who happen to be Dodge employees offering their time and assistance to us. The use of this word is offensive to those members and not all dealers are out to overcharge for their services.
Good luck with the repair.
As far as the derogatory use of the word dealership, this is not allowed as part of the forum rules when you signed up on the DTR. This site offers a wealth of technical information and costs you nothing to join. With that said, has it occurred to you that there are forum members who happen to be Dodge employees offering their time and assistance to us. The use of this word is offensive to those members and not all dealers are out to overcharge for their services.
Good luck with the repair.
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The code should disappear on its own after a few million on/off cycles. If you don't have a Smarty jr, smack yourself on the forehead now. Not only does it clear codes, it boosts mileage and improves performance. It also makes the truck 10 times more enjoyable to drive. Hands down it's the best mod for our truck.
EDIT: I just went out and cleared the code and restarted the truck. No code, and the voltage gauge shows the heater is drawing down the batteries just fine. Must be a fluke.
EDIT: I just went out and cleared the code and restarted the truck. No code, and the voltage gauge shows the heater is drawing down the batteries just fine. Must be a fluke.
My 07 throws that code every year when the intake heater kicks on for the first time before winter, I clear it and it wont come back until the following year, generally in September or beginning of October I started clearing it myself after taking the truck to the dealer for the first 2 episodes and they just reflashed the puter
I guess I'm not as smart as you! I have never used anything like it before. And anyway I'm sure they just don't "hand" them out to let customers borrow them. They (the scanner) isn't cheap.
the way it ame out
If they did let me use it, how would I clear it? Since I've never used one before??



