I don't think I'd turn it off at -40. If I had to leave it outside. But if I "had" to start it - (if it started dead cold at -40) - I'd probably fast idle it at 11-1200rpm then drive off sloooowly after 2 or 3 minutes.

 

its -40 here for like 3 months. i usually start truck and 30 seconds later i bump it up to 1100 rpm for like 10 minutes tops. then i drive slowly...

 

Do you have a scan tool or something that can show you IAT and coolant temp in degrees??

I would be curious how much it warms up in 10 minutes..

But if its plugged in and you have a winter front is shouldn't be that bad.. especially if you have an oil pan heater.

 

There's a good point!

 

bought my 07 5.9 with 150 miles and started hauling it got a lot of exssive idle time . i like tobe comfortable when i'm sitting still. it didnt have any problems fom anything. if you gettting oil and have a cracks in your turbo i would start checking the turbo seals and housing and make sure that it is not the problem before even thinking about the idle bs

 

r u saying 10 minutes is too long or not long enough?

 

Normally this truck never sits idleing. But, I have noticed oil consuption. I had already inspected the intake for oil. I had never seen any oil smoke until the other night after the engine had idled for a long period of time. The original engine had idled in rest stops for hours and never had a hint of oil consumption.

The reason I did not post oil leaking around a cracked turbo housing is I don't know that this is the problem area. I have sent a picture of this turbo to several people who know and they seem to think the turbo is OK. Even the dealer has looked at it. I am on my second oil change sense getting the new engine. I noticed some irregular oil consumption on the first oil change. I am really keeping and eye on it now. I haven't added any oil yet as it is at the halfway point in the safe zone on the dipstick. I towed heavy after the engine was installed to break the engine in. If towing 15,000lbs will not break the engine in I don't know what will.

When I am under the truck the engine is dry except for where I spill it when changing the filter. The engine is not leaking externally.

Maybe I will start a new post.

 

How cold was it when you had it idling before the smoke-out? I'm starting to think there's probably nothing wrong with it after re-reading your original post. The initial consumption might have just been due to break-in. I'll bet it levels out and starts acting normally pretty soon.

 

I am thinking you are loosing boost due to the cracked turbo. Thus leading to incomplete combustion. Yeah, someone might have looked at your turbo and said it was good, but as your turbo heats up and cools down your crack can widen thus leading to excessive smoke, lost boost and oil leakage. You said it was cracked after you got the truck back from the having a rebuild/new engine installed and I am wondering why have you not been on the mechanics cases about a replacement. Sounds to me the mechanic did a poor job and does not want to pay for his mistakes.

Another thing I notice was, you said your first engine failed and now your new engine is going out too. I would be looking at your driving habits and idling habits. A second failure so soon could mean you are pushing your truck past the truck's or engine's limits. Although, wash down could definitely be occurring due to your extended idle times.

As for extended idling like the big boys you need to remember, that most of today's OTR (Over the Road) trucks will shut down after a predetermined time frame and then restart as needed to keep the cab or battery charge. That is only if the driver has not overridden the ECM programing. Not to mention why would you want to waste money idling. Most Hot Shot services around here shut their trucks off if they are not moving, which translates to more money in their pockets instead of the oil cartels.

Also, why not stay in a motel room? Cost should be the same or lower than having to fuel up again every morning. Not to mention wear and tear on the motor.

Shawn

 

his truck appears stock so his drivng habbits couldn tbe to hard on the motor. i have had them stock and chipped and drive them hard and only had the 07 go out with 68k on it but that truck had a lot more problems then just motor and therefore was deemed a lemon. the turbo has damage and theirfore i would suspect that before the idle issue. not all places i deliver to have motels and only the newest trucks have shut offs programed into them. the 04 pete i hauled cattle with did not nor did it have problems from idle time

 

The original engine had a bad injector on #3. This caused the burned piston nothing to do with driving habits. The replacement engine runs night and day better than the original due to it is getting all 6 cylinders worth of performance.

I'm not going to stop and get a motel when I am only getting a nap for a couple hours.

My turbo seems to be making plenty of boost. I see 38 psi under the right conditions. And over 30 anytime I call on it.

No one has refused to replace the turbo. I have not been back to the dealer sense the freeze plug disasters with the new engine. That is fixed and I have been too busy to push for a new turbo. The truck is warrantied for 100K so unless you know this 3/8" long crack is causing trouble why push the issue? It may very well be a problem but like most on here the dealers just grab at straws. Matter of fact they have to call STAR before they can do anything on a diesel. This makes the repairs take longer. I need my truck on a daily basis not a loaner car.

 

If your seeing 38psi then your not running a stock motor, so what power adders do you have on it? Lots of power is known to pop out freeze plugs on the rear.

You have a boost gauge so I am guessing a pyro as well.. What type of EGT's do you see?

In one post you mention no external oil leaks, in the other you mention oil around the crack.. which is it?

And is the crack pre or post turbine wheel?

 

I Just Posted A Question On My Truck Sound Like The Same Thing.



Stuart

 

Not sure what post you are referring to. There is no oil around the crack. I can't find where I said it was. It is carbon from exhaust. I can clean it off and get a better view of the crack.

Just for info the crack is in the exhaust portion of the turbo as stated before. This portion should not have anything to do with an oil leak. The reason I mention the crack is whatever caused the crack may have caused a problem with the seal on the intake side.

Something to think about when talking boost. When a truck is empty it is hard to load the engine hard enough to maintain any real boost. Put a real load on the truck, towing 14,000 or more, and climb a real mountain, LIKE SANDSTONE WV, and then report back to me on what kind of boost you see. If you don't have an EGT better invest in one. My peak levels of boost are made when the truck locks the torque converter.

 

Okay, now that I am done laughing with you referring to anything E of the Rockies as real mountains I will continue..

I thought this post...

said you had an oil leak... maybe I am reading it wrong, but that sounds like you have a leak...

The WG on the 05's are electronically actuated. There is an air solenoid that opens to allow air to flow to the WG. The WG itself is really a 22psi unit, but the solenoid opens at a higher pressure and keeps the boost around 28-30 empty and 30-32 open. 32 is the max a CR will see. If your seeing 38 then you would be getting an overboost code. 38 means you have a bad gauge or are boost fooling with a programmer/module. 32psi is what should/is seen, towing heavy loads up real mountains, unless something is wrong/modified. I can see as much as 37 with stock fueling on my truck, but 33-35 is the normal when towing.