i would say the the rail pressure control was letting the fuel go bye and not building enough pressure in the line for the injectors to work. mite have had something in it not allowing it to shut. the problem you are describing sounds like the rail pressure is not building enough to allow the injectors to work

 

Quote-""What could have caused teh injectors to not have fired or open? ECM? CP3? Rail Pressure sensor? Camshaft position sensor?""

It may be your cam sensor. Which is why your truck started on either. The cam sensor is mainly only used on start up and under certain loads. Once it starts, the crank sensor takes the majority of the work. If you get no signal from the cam sensor or crank sensor during start the truck wont start.
It also could be the fca but it should of only ran on the either and then shut down if that was the case. Unless the vibration let it make contact when it started. Not positive on the fca, but, If it were the cam/crank sensor you should have a code, especially after long cranking periods.

I take it that you checked all your tst connections.

With out being there and with no codes thrown and a fresh fuel filter and after completely canceling out the tst as the cul[prit I would think the fca was stuck. You should be able to here it clicking when you turn the key on/off.

 

OK guys, NEW update!!!!

Hopped in started truck this mornig, everything fine. Drove it @ 100 miles as I had to pick up some tile for the house. Got home, shut truck off. It sat for about an hour as we unloaded the tile. Had to go pick up some more, when to go fire truck, NOTHING. Good news though: This time, I was able to get my TST to work fine on start up. I was able to get the rail pressure gauge up....and.....NADA! No rail pressure on start up. It was reading .2 as I was trying to start it. I threw some starting fluid in it, fired off. THIS time, after the truck started to run, a few miles down the road, check engine light came on finally. Got home, ran a code scan. PA 0336 Crankshaft Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance.


So, can the crankshaft sensor cause no rail pressure? I know that the sensor can cause a no start issue. I am just wondering if I need to look at 2 problems. Or, is the crankshaft sensor causing the no rail pressure also?


Thanks guys for your input!

 

The FCA I am not familiar with. What is it?

 

Please keep us posted on what you find. There are a lot of 2003 owners here with similar starting issues including me.

 

I will definitely could you updated.

OK guys, I need to know if teh Crankshaft Position Sensor can cause no rail pressure? If not, I have 2 problems to deal with. If it can, then I know I need to only replace teh Crankshaft Position Sensor.

So, what is guys? Can it or Can't it?

Under normal cranking, and when my truck starts, I am getting between 2000 and 3000 PSI of rail pressure. But, like I mentioned above, under the "no start" condition, it was reading just .2 Yes, you are reading that right, it is POINT 2 ( .2) PSI. So, I know under the no start condition I have no rail pressure. I now have the check engine light (Crankshat Postion Sensor). So, 2 problems or just 1?


On edit:
Where is the best place to pick up a crankshaft position sensor? What should I be paying for one?

I know on my old 7.3 PSD, the camshaft position sensor was HALF as much at the International dealer as opposed to buying from Ford.

 

Check engine light went off today, has started numerous times with no issue. However, I know there is still the problem lurking in the shadows so I would like to wrap it up and get it taken care of. So, my question still stands:

Can the crankshaft position sensor cause no rail pressure?

Do you think I have 1 or 2 problems, since we know that my check engine light came on, and we know that I had a no rail pressure problem?

 

Oh yes, that can cause a no fuel issue. If it dosen't see the crank turning over it is not gonna give it any fuel, hence no rail pressure. By chance have you checked the wire going to the High/Low AC switch on the high pressure A/C line. It will rub through the insulation and cause all kinda trouble. If you don't know what I am talking about read the sticky thread at the top of this section.

 

Yes, I am familiar with the wiring you are refering to, and we are good to go there.

OK, so what I should probaly do is replace teh crankshaft position sensor, and go from there.

ANy idea on what I should be paying for it, and through whom?

Thanks guys!

 

You can get a Rokktech adjustable timing sensor for $79.00 dollars I think. So I would say around 50 bucks or so. Also look for chaffing on the wires going to the crank sensor. They may have rubbed through also since it is intermittent. Look at where they pass over the fan shroud mounts.

 

OK thanks. The crankshaft pos sensor is located @ the starter, correct? You are saying that the wiring will go from there, up to the fan shroud area? OK, will take a look!

 

It is located at the front of the motor below the CP3. It reads the teeth off of the back of the front crank pulley. That's the tone ring everyone talks about.

 

Oh ok. I did a google on the crankshaft sensor, and came up with a guy that changed his out. He did a write up on it, and took pics. And one of the steps was into removing the starter to get to the sensor.

Thanks for the help!

 

Crawl under the truck, look straight up at the crank pulley, You will see the sensor and the notched ring thats aroound the crank pulley that the sensor reads from. Check your connections here, at the plug. Then just follow them up to make sure they are not rubbed through. Also, the tst has a plug to the crank sensor, Make sure those the plug and the wires to the box are not loose or rubbing, Dont just look at the factory wires.

Yest the crank sensor will cause no fuel pressure. If no signal the ecm doesnt know where the crank is positioned and wont allow the engine to fire. But it should not of fired and stayed running or running smoothly when you shot it with either. Unless you have a short and the vibration is alowing contct. Which is why were saying to make sure you check your wires and cancel out the tst before you dump the money for a crank sensor. Now that you have a code It will should lead you to the problem. The wire rubbing is a known issue and that along with extra plugs from mods that may not be supported, tied off or ran correctly is another. I hate to see people throw money away only to find out it was something else. Butt sometimes that cant be avoided

 

Roger Dodger! Thanks for the insight. I did crawl under yesterday, and found the sensor you guys are talking about. Everything looks good, minus some road grime. I disconnected the harness there, took some electrical parts cleaner, and cleaned it real good. Plugged it back in, nice and snug. All the wires looked good, no rubbing though, no loose connections. I have not had an issue since two days ago, and my light has not come back on. However, since I really did not find a "problem" with the wiring or anything, I think I may just go ahead and buy teh sensor.

I see your point about if it was the sensor, it should not have kept running after teh either got it going. Kind of a "catch 22"

Kind of off topic: Do you guys know what sensor the guy that I googled changed out? The sensor that is mounted behind the starter? He said (in his write up) that it was teh crankshaft position sensor. Did the earlier models have it located there or something? Because the sensor he took a picture of looks just like the sensor you guys have pointed out to me, and he took a picture of teh hole in the side of the block after teh sensor was removed with the starter off. Any idea's on what that may have been? Thanks guys, you've been great!