Hey all,
I have devolped a low spped vibration in the drive train. and i cant find it. Wanting to know if any of you had this similar problem. The vibration comes in only in low gear both accelerating and de cellerating. maybe up to 10 miles and hour. it also does it in reverse same way. I checked u joints seem fine. carrier bearing looks good. Could it be a stiff joint? all joints evcept rear are original. I shot grease in rear joint did not see any difference. Thts the only time i feel it at all. The truck is pushing 190,000. Differential fluids look clean mot burnt. Any ideas Thanks....

 

I just turned over 100K on my truck and I am on my fourth driveline. The first time, I felt a severe vibration at low speeds and I think only one section of the driveline was replaced. I then developed another vibration and the entire driveline was replaced. These were all replaced under warranty.

I recently developed another vibration and since it was out of warranty, I diagnosed it myself, pulled the entire driveline and brought it to a place that specializes in drivelines. They told me that one of the joints was stiff. I had them replace all the u-joints and do a balance on it. Got it back and reinstalled and now it is as smooth as new.

DMH

 

The only way to tell a ujoint going bad, before it is really bad, is to pull the shaft and feel them for roughness. I have seen joints that look ok externally, but when you take the shaft out of the truck and flex the joint by hand, you can feel it binding. Upon disassembly, it is way past bad. Pull it out and I bet you will feel the problem. Good luck.

 

Thanks guys. I will pull it this weekend. u joints make it sound better. just was hoping it was not serious

 

A quick way to check for a still joint is to drive the truck for a while and then get underneath and place a finger on every bearing on every u-joint. If any of them are stiff they will feel warmer than the rest. This is not a guaranteed test, but only a rough guide.

 

You should consider getting a one piece drivshaft,would not cost much more than replacing U joints and carrier bearing. Best money I have ever spent on a truck..

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I pulled rear drive shaft. Found front joint shot. needles comming out. stiff. thats why I could not move it when it was in the truck. all better now! Not bad 185000 on factory joint!

 

tlloyd and whomever,

Why did Dodge use multi piece drive shafts if a straight one would work??

I have a 2004, 3500, 6 spd, 4wd, extd cab, long bed, 1 ton with 122,000 miles (mostly highway) and the Left front universal is trashed. Started popping and banging turning a corner. $1000.00 to "fix" both wheels if the outer bearing is good, and if not, another $1000.00 for both. What's up??? Did Dodge use cheap universals all thru their trucks??? I would have never thought that the universals would be going out at this early mileage. So, any thoughts as I get ready to replace these things??? I think I will specify Spicer (sp) X's NOT what Dodge is offering. Having work done by a 4X4 shop in Port Angeles WA. The mechanic there said he is doing 2-3 of these every week, that Dodge used poor quality X's from the low bidder. Does this price seem about right? Has 8 hours down for the time needed. Any inputs about this mess would be welcomed. Don't really have the $ for this but I need the truck.

 

They went to one piece driveshafts in 08 I think. Either 08 or 09 anyway these drive shafts will fit 05 and 06 long bed or Megacab just have to pull the carrier bearing bracket four 15 mm bolts. The one piece shaft has fixed a lot of problems for a lot of guys. There are three part #"s one for the Auto trans and the others are for the G56 and NV manuals.Do a search on this forum you will find several threads covering this swap in more detail. Its the best money I have spent on my truck..

 

They went to one piece driveshafts in 08 I think. Either 08 or 09 anyway these drive shafts will fit 05 and 06 long bed or Megacab just have to pull the carrier bearing bracket four 15 mm bolts. The one piece shaft has fixed a lot of problems for a lot of guys. There are three part #"s one for the Auto trans and the others are for the G56 and NV manuals.Do a search on this forum you will find several threads covering this swap in more detail. Its the best money I have spent on my truck..

tlloyd, thanks for the reply. I do have an 04 long bed but I will see what is "available" in a one piece for it. Do you have any thoughts, experience, etc about the failed front universals and possibly the front outside bearings?!?!?! Should I replace with Spicer (spelling) bearings or??? I currently do NOT have driveshaft bearing problems, but having the info to deal with it, if needed, is better than GREAT. Has anyone on this forun contacted Dodge and complained about these poor bearings/x's and if so, did/has it done any good?? If anything comes of my complaints, I will be sure to post it, what ever it is. I have REALLY loved the truck but if I am looking at outside the "engine, clutch and transmission" STUFF going south, I don't know what to think/so. It is/was nutz of Dodge to put such a great engine/clutch/transmission into the truck and then skimp on all the rest of the truck "peripherals",,,,,,,, just REALLY bad thinking/marketing,,, at least to me it is.

Again, thanks for the reply and your thoughts and experience......

 

Dodge used good Spicer joints for years and they were never a problem. When they switched to AAM axles in 2003, they also started using AAM u-joints which are a disaster. The cups are not sealed well, and I don't think the lube quantity is consistent during manufacture. I have repaired dozens of failed joints in 3rd gen trucks, and replace them all with Spicer Life non-greasable joints. There is never another problem after that.

 

id be happy if i got 120k on my front joints. both mine went under 30k.

 

That is truly the PITS!!!!!!!!! Here is a company, making a unit that "had the potential" of really giving the purchaser a GREAT truck, "major" parts are built and designed to last for great periods of time, the the other "lesser" parts are built to fail in relatively short periods of time. It is so very sad that this is were things seem to be going.............

 

All I can say is what is there labor Rate!!! 1,000.00 to change front joints. Thats crazy. even 8 hours No way would i pay that much. And they could trash your bearings when they remove them and another thousand?? I believe i would look for another mechanic! Just my opinion