Dumb question, but how did you cut the stock steel lines? Can't get a pipe cutter to spin all the way around, can you? Am thinking there's not enough clearance between the line and the frame rail... Did you just use a hack saw very carefully and clean up any shavings?

 

It was a PITA, but I was able to get a small pipe cutter all the way around.

In retrospect it would have been easier to get a dorman to 3/8" fitting for the OE canister and run 3/8" hose all the way to the OE canister.

 

Hmm, how critical is the additional fuel water separation compared to the 2 micron filtering? Meaning if you had to choose...

I am considering perhaps just doing the latter (and a gauge of course).

What are the long term risks associated with water emulsion? I am assuming particles smaller than 7 microns (5 I guess when I switch to a PF7977) are a significantly larger threat to me at this point.

 

They both do damage. If you can only run 1 filter try one like the Donaldson P553203, 4um and a f/w sep.

 

Okay, will plan to do it right the first time. Up in the air with replacing the entire line vs compression fittings like you did though - I like the thought of leaving the steel line in place where I can.

How often do you drain your BF1212? Or do you just replace it every 20-30k miles along with the cat and oem filters?

Thanks for all the replies, they are greatly appreciated!

 

I check both of my f/w seps every 5K miles.

 

Both? How do you check the stock housing? Just crack the drain?

 

Yep, I drain them both into a jar, and see if there is any water or contaminants.

 

Just came across this: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...ter-guide.html

Seems VERY helpful. Moderators, please remove if cross-forum-links are not allowed and accept my apologies.

 

Well I did a little modification to my fuel filter setup yesterday.

I have been wanting a fuel heater for the f/w sep under the truck, as well as a WIF sensor. The OEM Severe Duty Filtration kit always looked like a good idea, but it was way too much $$. But recently I found one at a reasonable rate and picked it up.

I didn't plumb it how Dodge intended. They have the fuel lines that tie into the lines at the filter housing, then plumb back to the transfer case area, get filtered, and plumb back to the stock canister. Well that seems like a lot of unneeded hose, in addition I already have cut my OE line by the transfer case.

So I picked up the banjo to push-lok fittings and hi-flow banjo's locally. I also had to turn the heater around so that the in was on the right and the out on the left for better alignment of the hose to fuel line connections.





Then I ran the wiring. The main reason I wanted the OEM kit was the integrated wiring harness for the heater and WIF sensor. I mounted the relay on the back of the driver side battery tray, and hooked up the + and - connections. The wire that turns the relay on needs to be spliced into the power wire for the OE heater. This was the only part of the kit I thought was half-assesd. Everything else has nice weatherproof connections, why they didn't just add a pigtail connector to the OE heater plug I don't know. But its all installed now.





I was concerned about the sensor hanging down, but its above the transfer case skid plate and won't be an issue.



The WIF sensor needs to be replaced with the one in the kit, it must be a different OHM setup. The the OE pigtail plugs into the SDF harness. I haven't done this part yet as I am waiting for a tune from MADS to turn on the B20 WIF sensor option in the ECM. (I had Dodge turn it on last week, but the Smarty programing turns it off, but they are sending me a tune shortly).

I haven't driven it yet to report on the fuel pressure, and its cold out so I am not sure if the ~1 psi lower was due to cold fuel, the moved sensor, or the increased resistance of banjo's vs -an, or the resistance thru an additional heater.

I also took the time to redo all the hoses with the blue parker hoses. They still aren't bio-diesel compatible, but they should be fine for occasional B5 or B20 use. I also moved the fuel pressure sensor. Originally I had it plumbed to that my "T" for the sender was also a 90* fitting for the hose, now its plumbed so the sender is the "T" portion.



Before I hooked up the hose to the CP3 I ran a bunch of fuel thru it to clean anything out. I was surprised how much fuel the pump actually moves at no load. I was getting about 30oz of fuel in less than 10 seconds, which works out to be 90GPH. That is a lot more fuel than I thought the OEM pump pushed and that just could be due to no load and the internal bypass isn't bypassing due to no pressure.

The specs on the filter are, 25um absolute, 15um @ 83%, 95% free and 95% emulsified water removal, 30gr dirt holding, and 63.4 GPH. The filter is a FS19823, and Dodge sells it for $202. Cummins carries it for $37 but no one stocks it and I have been told a case min for an order. The FS19732 has the exact same specs, both are stratapore media but is .39" shorter. Its a common filter and is stocked by my local Cummins, so I will be using that one for my changes. The filters are rated slightly less than the BF1212, but as its the pre-filter I am not concerned in the least.

 

Nice work - looks great!

 

When I get home this summer I'm really going to be asking you alot of questions because I need to do this to both my trucks.

Great information, and fantastic install pics and notes.




Kris

 

Wow. Nice set up.

My truck is stock, power wise, but I did add the GDP kit with an extra drain.

Is the stock canister with fleetguard filter a decent water separator?

Anyhow, I think I'll also switch to the Cat fuel filter, once I use up my supply of the fleetguards.


Warranty wise, you will never get someone to say a modification won't alter the warranty because as soon as you say that someone will bring in a truck with a sliver of rubber hose in an injector supply tube, or a chunk of broken tap stuck in the turbo...

 

The stock canister isn't a horrible setup. The stock Fleetguard or the Baldwin PF7977 have excellent f/w separation rates.

 

Thanks. I guess I'm not too bad off, then, using the stock canister for the water separator, the heater, and a pre-filter with the 2 micron down stream...