3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Gauges in-Buzzing begins

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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 02:51 PM
  #16  
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From: Kuna, Idaho
Awesome news!
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:14 AM
  #17  
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From: Upstate NY
Originally Posted by AH64ID
Awesome news!
Not so fast there, Mr. Tank Buster! Took a 22mi trip to meet some friends for breakfast this AM. OAT is a balmy 28F with 40kt winds. Breakfast lasted about 30 min and it was back on the road again. About 10 miles into the trip, my BIL says "do you hear that buzzing sound"? Well after playing CE on a UH1 for the better part of 1,000hrs, suffice it to say that it has to be pretty loud for me to hear anything. Anyway, I said "Yeah, OK" then I started to hear it around 1900RPM and it is getting louder by the mile! Fuel level was 1/4 at the start of the trip so I'm figuring that the fuel is warming up and getting less viscous. Time to pull out the directions that came with the snubber and see what I missed. The snubber comes with 5 different pistons so it can be used with everything from gases (air) to heavy oil. The pistons are marked for use as indicated:
A or B*: Gasses
B* or C: Water
D: Light Oil
E: Heavy Oil

The asterisk * indicates the factory installed piston, which I changed to D because Diesel is a light oil, right? Well maybe to us, but as I said as the fuel warms up I think it gets closer to the viscosity of water and then the D piston is incorrect. OK, swapped the D piston out to the factory installed B version and went right back on the highway for a 4 mi trip. No noise, stopped and refueled. No change in pressure and the gauge doesn't have any flickering of the hand. The only indication that I changed the piston, except for the absence of noise/vibration is when the key is turned on there is no indication of fuel pressure. Once started, it comes right back up to 7 psi. OK, I can live with that! The moral of the story: When all else fails, read the directions!
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 11:15 AM
  #18  
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From: Kuna, Idaho
Haha... directions? What are those...
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #19  
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From: Upstate NY
You ain't going to believe it! After running about 10 minutes, the gauge starts buzzing again and the line is vibrating. Not quite as bad but close. I'm beginning to believe that the -3AN braided SS PTFE line is just too ridged and does not absorb any of the CP3 fuel vibrations. It magnifies themUnless I come up with a permanent fix, I will move the tapped banjo bolt to the bottom of the fuel filter and see if that solves the problem. I'm counting on the distance from the CP3 and the rubber line in between the two steel lines to attenuate any vibes/feedback. Comments? Feedback? Anything?
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 01:46 PM
  #20  
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From: Kuna, Idaho
Try a isolator. One that you put fuel to, then anti-freeze to the cab.

Something like this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/29...oductId=752902
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 04:00 PM
  #21  
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From: Frozen Northern Minnesota, Darn Close To Where Perma-Frost Begins...
Many moons ago I put a standard 'ol brass needle valve/cost me 2 bucks, in the banjo bolt on the cp3, kept closing the needle valve until the gauge stopped bouncing and the buzz ceased. Plus gauge or hose ever seep, shut the needle and no leaking all over. Worked good. The Sweetie quit asking me what that irritating buzz was, about 7yrs ago now...
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 02:11 PM
  #22  
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From: Upstate NY
Well, I am on the smallest plunger, the A. So far, so good. I guess I'll just have to wait and see/listen
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:20 PM
  #23  
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From: Upstate NY
Well, its been 11 months since I moved the -3AN line to a banjo fitting on the bottom of the fuel filter housing and all is well. Remote filters working well too.

Oh, yeah remember to drain the fuel filter housing BEFORE you try and make the connection
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