Yep i already searched this and read for 30 minutes...

track bar, shock mounts, motor mount (seems a little out there but i read about it), ball joints, brake calipers, steering column, etc......

My clunk is the typical "makes the clunking noise at low speeds only while turning"

Heres my question:

I hold on tight to my steering wheel...very tight. Recently i have noticed that when taking off hard, the steering wheel makes a clicking noise and will actually move. its like I'm lowering the steering wheel in very small increments when it makes this noise...clicking noise. I can in turn push the wheel back up and it will click back up click like it came down.....Is this possibly related to my clunk issue being something is loose in the steering column? my dealer did replace my steering wheel 18k ago.

Another theory is I have Bilsteins on my truck...so tightening lower shock mounts might help.

track bar has never been touched and ball joints were inspected 10k ago....

calipers have been adjusted some 15k ago or so....

Any ideas anyone?

Merry Christmas!

 

I don't know if you will take the advice of a Husker fan, but here goes.

If it is affecting the steering wheel like that, I think the problem has to exist between the steering gear box and the steering wheel. My gear box was loose and needed adjusted. Is yours leaking at all? It sounds like your problem is related to the steering wheel replacement, but I am no expert in this field.

Will the steering wheel move up and down and make the ratcheting sound when it is just parked and not running or is it only happening while you are driving? It may be an issue with the tilt feature of the stering wheel- again an issue with the installation of the new steering wheel.

 

haha we're all friends here. Husker or not

I am also thinking it must be related to my steering wheel replacement.....haven't messed with it in park...just driving down the road.

I've had issues recently of the power steering not wanting to work right....like the other day i drove 3 hours at 80mph and then exited to go eat at Chilis. In the parking lot at Chilis, the power steering didn't want to work completely...i had to work it before it started to behave normally.

Tuesday my truck does to my diesel mech for turbo, manifold, studs, intercooler, new gauges, and some tranny parts. I'll have him check the steering components.

I have heard theres been issues of leaking steering boxes.....

 

You mean your not installin your new parts yourself?

If I may cut in, how did the ball joints look when you had em checked? How many miles on the truck?

 

nope my diesel mech is a good friend and needs the business. He became an industrial injection and glacier distributor because of me. He's trying to get into the aftermarket parts stuff.....he's been a tranny guy for over 3 decades but wants more now to be able to compeat....hes my DTT builder as well as Rjohnson, BigBlue, and he built the tranny behind Jim Fulmer's 800hp 12 valve.

Ball joints had the proper gap...something like 1/4 and less...might be wrong on that. we had the tool out at the dealer under my truck and I watched them check them...the proper gap was there...nothing loose.

 

still got an occasional clunk for a while now....U-Joints looked fine when they were checked.

SERV 4WD came on tonight. The green light under 2WD (i have the electronic transfer case) would blink or stay off...then stay on. The clunk in the front end is worse and more frequent today...

HELP!

What makes a SERV 4WD light come on?

This is drivetrain....70,000 warranty, correct?

 

i have had similar problems on a older ford straight axle it was the u joint right at the wheel when i would turn it would bind and pop.you could feel it in the steering wheel might be worth looking into

 

Check the Ujoint in the Hub. They are sealed like everything else and dry out. I need to change mine also. But get ready for a bill and a half. You could open a huge can of worms and even if you're not you still may want to take the plunge now. Sometimes the Hubs will not come off that easy and one may get ruined. Also check your Ball joints if they seem just OK you may consider doing them while you have it all apart. Then again they might already be blown.

 

Am i not under warranty? I have no motor warranty...i know that. But its 70,000 on the drivetrain, correct?

Serv 4wd light has not come at all today....but the occassional bind/pop is still there.

 

sounds like the axle joints.

 

the axle joints and ball joints are considered wear items, no warrantee after 12,000 miles.

 

are you kidding me? what a load a bull my warranty is then!

 

and cant they say that the drivetrain would be under more strain than stock due to modifications?

 

yes it is bull, I have bought so many rear driveshaft joints for this rig I should own the company . I would guess they could say the power hurt the axle joints but the ball joints I doubt it. I know this there are 15 guys in the KTP plant that have had the ball joints done and it cost them. they paid dearly buying from the dealer, napa sells much cheaper. even with my employee discount(25 %) napa is cheaper. I just wish napa would come out with the driveshaft u-joints.

 

front axel ujoints are covered 7/70 power train ! had mine done under warranty . ball joints are not covered .my front end did the same as yours and it was ujoints.57000 miles.ball joints at 76000 miles .now that I know if one goes like ujoints then do ball joint also .you are already there in the tear down it is basicly parts.I have a 2003