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Front Diff cover removal, how difficult?

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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 06:28 PM
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Grim Reaper's Avatar
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Front Diff cover removal, how difficult?

I'm a new owner of a 2005 Dodge 2500 CTD and have been reading so many post on this site, but can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for:

Is it very difficult or tedious to remove the front differntial cover, I'm looking to replace it with a PML in the future and was wondering if it's as simple as removing the bolts or does the arm going across the front of it (sorry not sure what it's called) get in the way and need special tools for removal.

I tried a search, but haven't found any good info.

Thanks from a newbie.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 06:31 PM
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Tie-rod is the bar going to the knuckles. I don't remember if there is enough clearance or not. If there isn't, take off the cotter pin, take off the nut high enough that it's over the edge of the bolt, and smack it with a hammer, it will fall out.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 06:34 PM
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No special tricks or tools needed (at least for the stock cover), though the bar in front does limit wrench swing.

Gasket is reusable.

Bolts are 30 ft/lbs, plug is 24. There have been a few threads about broken bolts, so it may be worth the extra 2 seconds to grab the torque wrench.
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Old Aug 31, 2005 | 06:35 PM
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On the 2003 its just tedious. I had to put mine on twice, first one recalled due to wear problems. Have the new one on now and no problems.
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 06:34 AM
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Yep, it slows you down on the top right, but not too bad. I did mine for the first time and it was fairly easy. Just be careful on your torque and make sure you do not get oil on the bolts. There have been several posts of people stating how easy it is to break loose the heads.
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 09:18 AM
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Grim Reaper,

No real clearance problems, just messy as the old fluid starts to splash you in the face!! We stock all the PML covers and trans pans give us a call if you have any questions etc.

Mark @ DPPI
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Old Sep 1, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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Thanks for the info.

Mark I placed my order through your company last night for front and rear diff covers and a tranny pan, so there on hand when I'm ready to change fluids.

Steve
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 09:46 AM
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Great, Man I can't imagine getting something on the shelf before I neeed it, that's scary!!! Enjoy them and have some fun!

Mark @ DPPI
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Old Sep 3, 2005 | 04:14 AM
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Grim Reaper......I used a combination of a 1/4" drive ratchet w/swivel and turning the wheels a tad to gain a little better access to the front differential bolts when I last changed my axle fluid. It can be done...it's just a little more time consuming than the rear differential.
Greg
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Old Sep 3, 2005 | 07:01 PM
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Sounds like a great reason to have an aftermarket diff cover and make fluid changes easier. The diff covers and tranny pan are on order and will be put in place at the first fluid change.
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Old Sep 3, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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I just changed my fluids out today, not that I think they needed it, this is the second time I changed the lube and it looked almost like new, the oil any way. I think it is a waste of time and money to change at the recommended intervals from American Axle. Any way, I still have the stock covers on and had no problem with spillage or removal, it is less of a mess then changing the oil. Just make sure the only loosen enough the let the oil drain a little at a time.
Now the tranny was a different story. I forgot how big the drain is on the Mag-Hytec pans. At least my garage floor is cleaner now that I had to degrease and scrub it.
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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Good choice, Next time I'm going to do my own. I'm not all that handy but for what the Dodge dealer told me I'll find a way I got some maint done and it called for the diffs changed at 40~k They looked at the oil and said it looked like new...then they said it would have been about 300$ to change it b/c it calls for synthetic. So I'll find a way. BTW, this is the dealer that when I asked them to listen to a ticking at start-up. they said "that could be the fueling, we're not that experience w/ Cummins" This is a 5 star dealer they said to take it somewhere else. HAHA
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 01:37 PM
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There have been a few threads about broken bolts, so it may be worth the extra 2 seconds to grab the torque wrench.
do that and you are more likely to have the broken bolts. 30lbs is too much for a m8 screw i feel. just snug them up with a wrench. most here who have the broken bolts used a torque wrench...
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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I agree about breaking the bolts with a torque wrench, been there a couple of times over the years, on valve covers and oil pans etc, pain in the ---! Stick to wrenches. Actually i beleive that is why they send allen head bolts with the covers, just snug them down by hand with a allen wrench and you will be fine.

One note, I just installed a polished set on my 03 last friday night front and rear, took less than 2 beers to complete. The only problem I did have is that the new front cover did not clear my superlift duel front stabilizer so i had to use a longer bolt where the shock mounts to the frame to shim it out. no big deal though, all is fine!!
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Old Sep 8, 2005 | 10:35 PM
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do that and you are more likely to have the broken bolts. 30lbs is too much for a m8 screw i feel. just snug them up with a wrench. most here who have the broken bolts used a torque wrench...
I agree. I read over on TDR that 18 lb ft is correct for the cover bolts. I think the main caps inside are 30 lb ft.
I just did the fluid today. The front cover is a pain but can be done if you are a contortionist. 8 qts synthetic for about $50 and a couple of hours of my time and I saved a bunch. Plus I spent some quality time under the truck, away from the wife and kids.

Steve
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