Good write up, Madcap. Just one correction - - those beers should have been foo foo. LOL

I was a little baffled about 40K and new pads also. I have 65K on my 3500 with about 55K of those pulling a 16,000# fifth wheel. My pads still look maybe 50%. Strange.

Bob

 

Yeah, 5ver, but I drive mine like I stole it most of the time. That tends to wear the pads faster. Good trailer brakes keep the pads from wearing when towing, so I can see you getting more life out of yours than I did mine.

I still say beer...

 

Is it true on these trucks that rotors have to be turned while on the vehicle. I read it here.

http://www.quad4x4.com/Dodge%202nd%2...le%20Maint.htm

 

Hey Pull, I have always gotten better miles out of my manual trucks than my autos. Most of my contacts 'round here are the same. One has 82k on his 05 4x4 3500 G56 still with factory pads @ 50%. Beats it alot!!!!. Another has 244k on his 04.5 4x4 3500 nv trans. Did first and only change @ 177k. I've got 44k and they look like 80% left. My autos were eat up @ 40k each. Jake on this truck is the reason I'm sure. Something to do with the autos and lockup lets them push even after letting off and braking. Used to pop mine into neutral to help a little.

Chris

 

Another good tip is to use a torque wrench and torque the lug nuts to specification (check your owners manual). This will keep even pressure on the rotor as the tire rotates and through its temperature fluctuations from braking.

Also, hi-temp anti seize is a great brake lube.

 

Thanks for the write-up. Gonna beat mine out right now.
It will be too late for a reply but I guess I don't have to worry about breaking the bleeder to compress the caliper pistons.
I was under the impression fluid force-back damages the ABS.

Thanks again.

 

I looked in the manual about that, did not see anything specific. Just do it slow, don't try to press it in all at once.

 

Just like we did on yours Mark. Big c-clamp and crank it slow. I knew I'd seen those ramps before.

Chris

 

Perfect timing, just getting to it now.
Thanks for the quick reply.

 

No worries. Welcome to the DTR, BTW.

 

My last post I had the impact out and compressor airing up.
Less than an hour and done.
The slowest part was taking my time squeezing the pistons back and figuring out which side to pry the caliper to come off the knuckle, (bottom for driver and top for pass).
Probably the quickest pad swap for me out of dozens.

 

I would use the bleeder so all that dirty oil is not forced back into the lines. Also easier on everything.

 

Thanks Madhat for the well written writeup regarding the brake pad replacement. This is a job that I was planning on having a shop handle next week,until I found this thread. Now all that's needed are the parts,some Bud Ice and I'm set.