The OE dodge front end design gets thrown out of whack any time you lift the truck from stock. The higher you go, the more problems come up..

Even stock, I feel the upper control arm should not be so high on the frame, and they should be longer, effectively moving the rear(frame) pivot points closer together.

So, what is happening is this..

You know, I need to draw a picture as what I say will make no sense..

 

Check out this picture...



In stock form, axle rotation is cancelled out well with the forces going mostly through the links.

Once lifted, a decent amount of the rotational forces get transferred into very high leverage forces, allowing a few things to happen. If bushings are used, most of the energy will deflect the bushings. If rigid joints are used, most of the energy will go into lift/squat forces.

Here's the kicker... IF you can keep the links so that the uppers and lowers are not parallel, by being farther apart at the axle end, most of these rotational forces are killed. This is why I say that making the frame end close together would fix many problems with the OE setup.

 

Thanks for the info and drawing. That makes perfect sense.

 

Thanks for the great reply Don. It really does make sense now. Since this is a byproduct of installing a lift is this type of movement acceptable? By acceptable I mean no major damage will result from it? Or does a corrective action need to be taken?

I'm sure this causes additional stress on bushings and other suspension components, as can be expected with any aftermarket lift kit. I can live with that. I just want to make sure the truck is safe for driving and is operating as it should be expected. Thanks again for the help.

 

Try this. Have someone drive the truck forward slowly and then slam on the brakes while you're outside looking at the axle. Now imagine those same forces at 70mph with a load behind you. Doesn't really sound safe to me and I would want to change it, but realistically it probably wouldn't break on you.

 

The thing is....at that extreme angle, the bushings wouldn't have to have that much play to cause that rotation. A lot less than you would think. As the angle get's lower and lower (longer arms or stock height) the rotation force has much less leverage on the arms. If it were mine, I'd first check the bushings VERY closely, then I'd probably take out the spacer up front and drop the back down 2 inches to level it back out. That's way too much rotation for me and I'd try to minimize it as quick as possible. JMHO

 

I guarantee you that it won't do it as much in forward as reverse, but that is still problematic.

 

Technically I bet your bushings are OK, but as noted above it doesn't take much deflcetion in them to let the rotation happen, once you get into pretty tall heights with stock geometry.

Have you seen how some lift kits raise the axle upper mount? This situation is what that bracket is for, but the cost is an extremely converged short 4 link which is not right either..

Using stock control arm mount points, with any more lift that 3 inches, REALLY pushes the limits when it comes to making a suspension that can actually function "ok". Rolls steer is out of hand, braking antidive is fighting the induced squat we are seeing here, bushings are stressed, and the control arms are trying to drive themselves like a pole vault into bumps..

Just some of the issues that come along for the ride...

 

bottom line... you've got too much lift for the short arm setup.
You need to lower it or go with long arms.
Usually 4" is max for short arms. After that, issues intensify.

 

coolhand...i replied to your pm!
get rid of the short arms and give don a call!!

 

wow, that's an awesome way to put it!!! i KNOW exactly what you're talking about, just never could put it into words. what sucks is that as the driver, you (I) feel like the little spot in the ground where the dude jabs his pole (the vault pole, not his "other" pole)!!

 

Thank you sir!

 

I just got mine back from dealer from front end noise, he says the front driveline is too short and it is almost pulled out all the way. Took it to where the lift was installed they looked at it and called superlift. 1st thing no knuckle was installed from tranny 2nd no clocking (something) from Diff to driveshaft, corrects the angle from front diff to drivline, already changed out pitman arm on recall. I would find out who did install on it and have them check it out. Mine will get fixed for free supposedly.

 

his problem is not the lack of a clock ring, it's the extreme angle of his short arms.

 

the arms are too short and steep, it may help to take those coil spacers out and lower it down some