Hey, got my 07 5.9 6 SPD. Ready to do oil, air, & fuel filter this weekend. Was curious about filters. I hear fleet guard is the way to go on oil, but was wondering about fuel and air. I have an AFE cai an want to go to a dry filter if anyone has recommendations. Also, my local parts house only stocks wix filters an the fuel is 7 micron. I understand everyone likes 2 micron. Is there a drop in for this? Or is it an upgrade deal? Thanks in advance!!!!

 

Upgrade your fuel system with a CAT 1R-0749. Going to need a whole new setup for this filter. It's the best. Period.
I run an AEM dry filter for the last 70k miles and my silicon levels are alway very low (4-5).
I also run an Amsoil EaBypass filtration setup.

 

Thanks trik396. I'll look into your suggestion on the fuel filter. Any idea what roughly the parts cost to do it? I was thinking the AFE dry filter would be the best match. Thanks for the input!! Already got way too much in the truck for the short time I've owned it!!

 

AFE dry would be fine also. Never heard a bad word about them.
It's been over 5 years since I did my filter setup so I cannot remember the cost. Sorry. I know all about spending $$$ on these trucks...

 

The best fuel filter for the canister is a Baldwin BF7977. It is a 5 micron absolute and a good fuel/water seperator. Second best is Fleetguard or MOPAR which are 7 micron absolute. Many other brands don't come close to these and are listed as nominal and are not good fuel/water seperators. Water can kill your engine.

As mentioned above you might want to add a spin on fuel/water seperator such as the Baldwin BF1212 and a spin on filter such as the CAT 1R0750 which is a 2 micron absolute. The common rail engines require very clean fuel.

I made my setup using Baldwin bases at a cost of a little more than $100. There is a lot of good reading on this, do a search for AH64ID. He has done a lot of research on filters and has posted some good info.

 

Agree with the recommendations mentioned by Papaduck.

 

Cat1R-0750 is just a shorter version of the 1r-0749

 

Baldwin PF7977 or Fleetguard 7 micron. The Wix filters are junk.

 

if you still have the stock air box and tube get a psm kit for it and a 49946 filter and put it back on and send the afe to the trash can where it belongs. do not over service your filters. the dirtier they get the better they filter. get a gauge a 0-15 psi is best connect it to the cps with a taped banjo bolt you will see about 8 psi do not change before 2 psi under load. go by the filter minder for the air. as stated the bf7977 is the best stock setup the lf16035 has the flutes on the bottom and best filtering of the fleetguard line. your truck has in-cylinder egr and causes massive amounts of carbon in the oil. two things first get a bypass oil filter second when you get about $2,500 saved up pm me and i will give instructions on how to remove the biggest part of it giving 6 mpg increase and 300* lower egt. the fuel savings alone payback was in one year. i am going to paste a better filter setup for your truck. total cost about $125 the 2 micron filter is a wix equivalent to 1r0749 cat we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 if you think you must have a drain on the separator use 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.

the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed