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Fass HPFP 95-1003 install question?

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Old Feb 22, 2009 | 11:12 AM
  #1  
psajb's Avatar
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From: NorthEast
Fass HPFP 95-1003 install question?

I now have 65,000 miles on my truck and I ordered the 95 pump only kit. After reviewing the installation instructions and parts list I see a small fuel filter to be installed inline between fuel tank and pump. But nowhere in the instuctions does it indicate installing the inline filter. My question is do I need to install this filter? I would think that that is going to be an issue in the cold weather and resticting fuel flow.
I am planning on keeping my stock filter and heater, leaving everthing in place but the old pump and plugging the old line off for a backup for emergency purposes. Thanks Pat
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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From: NW Arkansas
I think you should use the filter as it will protect the pump from possible trash in the fuel. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, replace this filter first if your fuel pressure starts dropping. Get an extra one from NAPA and carry it with you.

I just installed a FASS 95 on my truck and had loads of problems getting the fuel line loose from the tank. I had to drop the tank and still could not get the quick disconnect loose. After 4 hours of trying I destroyed the quick disconnect to get it off. All the other disconnects were easy.

I had problems getting the new fuel line connector to connect( didn't read the directions correctly). I cut the fuel line from the old pump and removed 2 in. of the protective sleeve and found that the 3/8 fuel line slid on the hard plastic line with a snug fit. I put a short piece of 5/16 in. copper tube in the hard plastic fuel line so that I could put a clamp on it and not crush the plastic line. The 5/16 in. copper is a tight fit. It seams to be working well.

I wanted a very soft mount for the pump and felt that the two rubber pads were not enough as the bolts were still metal to metal. I reamed out the two holes in the mounting bracket, after drilling the bed rail, to allow a rubber bushing over the bolts. Any short piece of thin rubber tube will work. I used 4 very thin O rings on each bolt which worked well for me. I can hear the pump before startup but cannot from inside the cab with engine running.

While I had the tank off I revented the tank. Got the parts from a local plumbing supply. I tested the parts in diesel fuel for 5 days. The rubber gasket showed some signs of swelling so I used large nitrile O rings for the gasket. The bulkhead fitting, 3/4 in pipe to barbed L, and a 3/4 in. plug cost less than $10. 2 feet of 3/4 in. fuel line from O'Riellys was less than $10. I used gasket silicone to lock the nut of the bulkhead fitting on the inside of the tank. I alowed the silicone 24 hours to cure while I was installing the fuel pump. Put a total of 34+ gallons back in the tank when the pump clicked off.

I used the original pump to drain the tank.It was slowly loosing preasure but was still working. I put an extension tube on the filter drain and tapped the starter which allowed the pump to run for approx. 30 seconds. Got about one qt. each time. Total fuel removed was 7 gallons. Gauge before starting was 1/16 of tank and 35 miles distance to empty. About 1/2 gallon of fuel remained in the tank when it quit pumping fuel.
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Old Apr 29, 2009 | 02:06 PM
  #3  
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From: albany,mn
Yeah I would install it. I got the 150 stand alone on mine and you notice some in winter but i keep up on my additives to keep it under control.
Plus im sure for warranty purposes you should have it in if anything happened to the pump that was caused by dirt they wont warranty it i bet.
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