Driveshaft u-joint removal HELP!
Driveshaft u-joint removal HELP!
This is ridiculous. I am so frustrated I don't know what to do. I had to walk away. I cannot for the life of me get the u joint removed from my rear drive shaft. I've got it pressed as far to one side as possible and there is just no removing of that cup. And so I am stuck at home with no transportation and have to be at work tomorrow for 9 (days) consecutive 12 hour shifts and this is how I'm spending my one day off. So aggravated. And will have no way of getting to work. Any tricks or suggestions will save me from getting out my 12 gauge shotgun and blasting 3" magnum slugs at this darn thing....
Can u grab the cup being pushed out with vice grips? And twist it? That us how I've done some.
Or use a sharp chisel and hammer and hit the cup at an angle to help it out.
Or sawzall the cross to get it or torch it out. Watch out for splattering grease If u torch it. I've used them all.
I have limited inter web access right now if you need more assistance. Out of country.
Or use a sharp chisel and hammer and hit the cup at an angle to help it out.
Or sawzall the cross to get it or torch it out. Watch out for splattering grease If u torch it. I've used them all.
I have limited inter web access right now if you need more assistance. Out of country.
I could try the torch thing but the caps are near the end... so what do I heat up? Whacking it with a hammer is futile now. It cannot move toward one side anymore as the inside of the joint is bottomed out. Just that the last 1/8" of cap is so stuck it's crazy.... If you guys only knew how much salt they use in Chicago in the winter... you'd understand the corrosion issues.
Bastages...
(now well into a six pack of cool ones)...
Bastages...

(now well into a six pack of cool ones)...
Followup.... torch worked.. Heat is your friend in this application. Really had to heat it up good. Used an acetylene B-tank and let her roast. It was the only way to free up the cups.
Thanks for the tips... now I just gotta get up the fortitude to do the front one even though it feels fine... cause it is probably gonna go south soon.
The rear joint was really rusted and about half the needles were gone to powder. You could see the scoring on the main shafts. Not pretty. Wonder how long before it would totally fail? Anyone get to that point???
Thanks for the tips... now I just gotta get up the fortitude to do the front one even though it feels fine... cause it is probably gonna go south soon.
The rear joint was really rusted and about half the needles were gone to powder. You could see the scoring on the main shafts. Not pretty. Wonder how long before it would totally fail? Anyone get to that point???
Been there, done that (not).
Too bad you didn't search and find my post from a couple of months ago on the topic.
You just flip it over and push on the cross (instead of the yoke) with a piece of channel (so the cups get worked out separately). If that doesn't do it, drop some pennies down inside the cup, or just collapse the needle bearings, to give the cross something to push against. Took some head scratchin' but I figured it out after awhile. I know just how you felt though.
You just flip it over and push on the cross (instead of the yoke) with a piece of channel (so the cups get worked out separately). If that doesn't do it, drop some pennies down inside the cup, or just collapse the needle bearings, to give the cross something to push against. Took some head scratchin' but I figured it out after awhile. I know just how you felt though.
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Wulfdiesel
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Apr 2, 2006 03:02 PM



