3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

DIY Rear Brakes, 04.5 3500 Dually

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Old Jun 17, 2016 | 01:24 PM
  #46  
55_Cans's Avatar
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From: Alberta
Originally Posted by Spooler
Very helpful for me today. Rear rotors, axle seals, brake pads, and calipers going on today. 132,xxx miles I am changing everything. I have to tow tomorrow.
If you are installing new calipers ignore this. You can also get caliper pins and rubber boots. I find the boots commonly break and allow water to rust the pins. They are cheap to replace at the same time and ensure the caliper floats like it should.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 11:27 PM
  #47  
Totallyrad's Avatar
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
I just had to do rear calipers again. As with the last time the left, driver's side, failed. O'reily's did swap them, no issue. What I'm finding is that many of the lifetime warranted parts suppliers have begun changing their idea of what constitutes lifetime. They'll swap them once, and the replacement has from a 30 to 90 day warranty and that's all you get.
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 03:11 PM
  #48  
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What happened?



I did everything as you said (except anti-seize compounds). Installed new rotors, calipers, and bled brakes. Now the rear brakes don't work. Is there something to do with the anti-lock brake system to reset it, or did I miss something?

2005 3500 RAM Laramie 5.9 Cummins Long bed crew cab dually.
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Old Mar 14, 2017 | 07:21 PM
  #49  
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From: Alberta
Originally Posted by ronporterfield


I did everything as you said (except anti-seize compounds). Installed new rotors, calipers, and bled brakes. Now the rear brakes don't work. Is there something to do with the anti-lock brake system to reset it, or did I miss something?

2005 3500 RAM Laramie 5.9 Cummins Long bed crew cab dually.
Let me ask a stupid question. You changed the calipers, did you swap them - put drivers on passengers and visa versa? If installed opposite the bleed line will be lower than the piston and will not allow the trapped air to escape.
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Old Jun 17, 2017 | 07:02 PM
  #50  
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From: Silycon Valley
Nice write up.
I am at 145k miles.
My pads are thin. but theres no pulsation on the pedal.

Would you pad slap it? Or go all the way in and turn the rotors and replace seals and parking break shoes?

Are people replacing wheel bearings on mileages like this or leaving them alone?

Thanks,
Chris,
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Old Jun 19, 2024 | 09:40 AM
  #51  
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Just finished a rear brake job on my '04.5 3500 Dually. Definitely a project for those with some experience, not beginners. If you're taking it on, make sure you have all the right tools, especially a 1/2" impact wrench, and take your time with safety. The hardest part was dealing with the parking brake adjusters—passenger side was straightforward, but the driver's side was a bear. Also, don't forget to chock your front wheels and use sturdy jack stands. Managed to save a good chunk of change doing it myself, but it was quite the workout! If anyone needs detailed steps or has questions, feel free to ask.
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