DIY Rear Brakes, 04.5 3500 Dually
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
One silly little perplexing detail: I see your axle has a couple of spacers between the bottom (heaviest) leaf and the axle spring perch. Must be a 4X4, my 2WD doesn't have them. Makes getting the upper caliper floater bolts out a major pain-----you have to loosen the U-bolts. Nice goin', Daimler-Chrysler!
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 68
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From: HOUSTON
A few suggestions..
Replace/re-install the bearings with a NEW nut and the balance of the hardware..
DO NOT RE-USE THE OLD HARDWARE that tighten the bearing pack.
DO NOT have any slack in the bearings. ANY play is not good.
Cryo'd rotors and Yellow Stuff(TM) Pads are well worth the added expense if you are planning on keeping your truck for awhile.
Use a good Synthetic in the diff (80W-140) if you are heavy hauling.
I like AmsOil.
Service the diff every 30-40K if you are not heavy and every 25-30K if you are.
Dana FACT: the Series 80 has a 150K life if serviced using their recommended intervals. Oil is cheap compared to rebuilding.
DO NOT RE-USE THE OLD HARDWARE that tighten the bearing pack.
DO NOT have any slack in the bearings. ANY play is not good.
Cryo'd rotors and Yellow Stuff(TM) Pads are well worth the added expense if you are planning on keeping your truck for awhile.
Use a good Synthetic in the diff (80W-140) if you are heavy hauling.
I like AmsOil.
Service the diff every 30-40K if you are not heavy and every 25-30K if you are.
Dana FACT: the Series 80 has a 150K life if serviced using their recommended intervals. Oil is cheap compared to rebuilding.
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 537
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From: Lancaster, Ca.
Bought it new. And after reconfiguring the leaves I have cured the clearance problem.
Thread Starter
Administrator / Free Time Specialist
Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Thread Starter
Administrator / Free Time Specialist
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,707
Likes: 16
From: Birmingham, Alabama
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 51
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From: Alberta
This is what you should see now. Unlike some older models where you have to knock the wheel studs out to separate the rotor from the hub so you can turn or replace the rotors, this truck is different. You have to remove these bolts instead, step away from the wheel studs!
This photo is looking from the back of the rotor or the side nearest the truck toward the hub. A deep-well socket and 1/2" impact will spin these right out. They also have a chemical thread locker on them. Don't forget your PPE before you fire up that impact gun.
This photo is looking from the back of the rotor or the side nearest the truck toward the hub. A deep-well socket and 1/2" impact will spin these right out. They also have a chemical thread locker on them. Don't forget your PPE before you fire up that impact gun.Good write up!
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
