Seal must be worth about 700 then \

I would love to see the invoice to see how it was billed out.

 

I am going to be the first to admit I was wrong in thinking that the rear axle bearings don't need grease. its the inner bearing that is lubbed by the diff fluid and the outters need grease for the initial lube.

here is the procedure straight from chrysler. but labor time is still only 1 hour.



Install outer hub bearing cup with Installer 8961 and Handle C-4171 .
2. Install inner hub bearing cup with Installer 8153 and Handle C-4171 .
3. Pack bearings with the appropriate wheel bearing grease.
4. Install rear bearing and install new grease seal with Installer 8963 and Handle C-4171 .
5. Slide hub on the axle tube and install front bearing into the hub.
6. Install hub bearing nut with Socket 8954 (1) and tighten with torque wrench (2) to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) while rotating the hub.
7. Back off nut about 30° and align next hub nut key slot with axle tube key slot and install locking key.
NOTE: End play should be 0.025-0.25 mm (0.01-0.001 in.)
8. Install retainer ring (1) with ring end in the key slot (2).
9. Install new axle shaft gasket and install the axle shaft.

 

But you've also got to pay the six other mechanics to hold that corner of the truck up off the floor while the seventh does the seal.

 

isn't that the truth

our shop is $105 an hour. the seal is $28 list price and $80 in oil (since he has the mag hytec)


also a brake flush is not even in the owners manual for servicing UNLESS it has been contaminated so its not even needed.

 

UPDATE......

Well I got under my truck today to check the diff fluid level to make sure they did it right. What do u know its low barely reading on my mag-hytech dipstick. I call the GM give him a piece of my mind and he investigates and has the customer service lady call me. She states the mechanic put fluid in till it reached the weep hole on the center of the cover where the logo is for hytech. I tell her that it needs to be between the two lines on dip stick.

I call mag hytech and confirm the proper filling procedures he tells me that if u go off the week hole that is the factory level and u r not taking advatage of the cover but that it is ok. But that it should b between the marks for proper capasity to take advantage of the unit.

Call dealer back explain and she has me talk to the chief mechanic and he tells me that the weep hole on the cover is same hieght as the factory cover and that u don't want to go over that cause it will cause foaming of the oil and alow oil to run freely down the rails of the axel at all times and cause corosion off the axel seals and cause failor. He stated u want the oil in the bottom of the cover and let the gears sling the gear oil down the tubes to lubricate axel.


It kinda makes sence about the over fill but if that were the case everyone with a maghytech cover would be having this problem. I'm no expert so I'm super confused and I'm thinking of just going to the store and drain the diff get new fluid and fill it up properley and move on with life and never return to the dealer again

 

I dont buy this one bit. i dont see how haveing the 8 quarts is going to hurt anything. as long as the vent is not pluged up. I have mine right to the top of the stick. and i have the pml front cover and it a 1/2 to 3/4 more than stock. the reason i got my rear mag was so the oil would run free in the tubes and get to the bearings. If it was me i would fill it up and never go to that dealer again. stories like yours is why i do all my own work.

 

Any way to post up a copy of the bill? I would also like to see how they billed it for so much $

I would NEVER return to that dealer again either and I would also tell everybody I could to NOT go there.

 

Flushing the brake fluid has nothing to do with replacing the pads. It is a separate operation that can be done at any time.

 

Why would they flush brake fluid, it has nothing to do with rear end lube or seals?
Pads should have been replaced also, rotor can be cleaned.

Sounds like a rip off ... $$$

 

Read his posts....

 

Dealer is way off. As mentioned earlier, Diff. lube stinks. Auto trans fluid has a slight sweet odor when new but rear diff. lube is nasty. I lost a left wheel seal at around 140K on my '03 3500 dually in Canada. About $200 to fix. Still running right wheel seal at 194K. Now you know not to take anything to that shop. I'd gather info and file a complaint with BBB.

 

I did.

 

Moss Bros in San Bernardino? That explains alot.

Those guys had my '98 Neon for a week for an emissions problem (evap filter and valve) that they could NOT find the parts for, and I couldn't get tags for the car until I got the problem fixed.




-Kris

 

My self if they use the same thin gear oil that came from the factory I would drop it out and install new quality gear oil.

 

Ya i did went and got some amsoil severe gear and made sure it was done right.