I assume the theory here is that the loctite lubes the bolts to well causing over torque? I went by a torque chart that allowed for some lube as well as dry...but it still happened. Or is there a different theory at work here? I'm all ears as maybe there is something I don't know or am missing?

 

I was just giving an option. If you want someone to do it completely right you must do it yourself such as drop the pan, but watch how a dealer or someone else does it, they hook up a big vacuum and pull all of the fluid out just so they don't have to drop the pan, TRUST ME on this they screwed my wife!!!! NOT PHYSICALLY . Do as you wish this is just an easier way if you are completely worried about metallics take a magnet and lower into the housing if you get metal flakes, which you will get some, then drop the pan to inspect.

 

This has been my experience on the tools for 25 years. Blue loctite acts like a glue on the treads preventing them from backing off in a fastener that is subjected to torque, vibrations etc. The diff covers are thin sheet metal bolted to monster diffs with small bolts that in no way, I can see require blue or red loctite. Loctite doesn't lube threads it glues them together and always cloggs the threads when removed and reused causing stripped or snapped bolts, my experience! Since we are changing our axle oil and inspecting gears my opinion is to apply a little never seize to the bolts after cleaning all traces of loctite.

 

Yes and no....Definitly don't use red loctite as that will for sure cause problems as you need either heat or impact to remove, and will likely break bolts. Blue on the other hand can be removed using normal hand tools. The idea is that you don't need to worry about the bolts backing out causing any leaks or sweating. I know the theory is that if they are properly torqued they shouldn't but there is no harm making double sure. You are correct in regards to it basically being a glue....but it is a liquid when first applied and therefore lubes the threads while tightening and until dry which can cause overtorquing and shearing if the torque value is not adjusted. This is why if you have access to a bolt torque chart you will usually see more than one torque. One chart for dry threads and one or more for different lubes including anti-seize, loctite, oil etc. I did clean and tap the threads first to ensure it was clean of all old loctite and used a torque chart specifically listing loctite as the thread 'lube'. Also remember that even if using anti-seize your torque values should be altered using a torque chart as even anti-seize works a s thread lube causing incorrect torque readings. Loctite only forms a glue after it has set up and sat for a bit...initially it is liquid. Remember I broke my bolts on re-installation, not on removal so it wasn't the glue factor. I still suspect they were slightly over torqued from the factory causing the bolts to have stretched enough that they next time they broke.

My experience with loctite is very positive if you use the right kind for your application. Anti-seize is good also. Loctite also works as an anti-seize (unless you use red or green) as it seals out moisture causing corrosion.