Changing the 48RE's fluid?
Changing the 48RE's fluid?
I'd like to change the fluid in my trucks tranny and I'm a little unsure how to go about it. Can I just drop the pan and drain the old ATF, replace the gasket and bolt up the pan and fill the fluid again (with synthetic ATF)? Or should I take it in and get it completely flushed and refilled? I'm not too crazy about the dealer working on my rig and I sorta enjoy wrenching on it myself.
Also is there anything else I should do to the tranny while the pan is dropped? What synthetic ATF do you guys reccomend?
Also is there anything else I should do to the tranny while the pan is dropped? What synthetic ATF do you guys reccomend?
Flush, Don't Flush, it's an old debate. If you have it flushed watch how they do it. The Old style and best in my opinion, is the filter hook up type flusher. You have to remove the pan and the filter and hook the flusher to the filter inlet. Just about a 100% fluid replacement exchange. The new fluid is pumped in as the old fluid runs out.
To reduce liability of failing transmissions the "new flushers" hook up to the transmission cooler lines, shops don't drop the pans anymore, nor do they change the filter. The flusher is hooked up and the engine is started and new fluid is pumped into the return side of the cooler lines as the old fluid runs out of the inlet side. Problem is that only about 20%-40% of the fluid the pump is pumping is directed to the cooler. The rest goes into the transmission for operational use. In this method the "flusher" just keeps pumping new fluid into the transmission that gets mixed into the fluid already in the transmission until the fluid seems diluted enough to be called flushed and appears new. Real subjective to technician interpretation in my view.....
In any case make sure you change the filter and clean the bottom of the pan.
To reduce liability of failing transmissions the "new flushers" hook up to the transmission cooler lines, shops don't drop the pans anymore, nor do they change the filter. The flusher is hooked up and the engine is started and new fluid is pumped into the return side of the cooler lines as the old fluid runs out of the inlet side. Problem is that only about 20%-40% of the fluid the pump is pumping is directed to the cooler. The rest goes into the transmission for operational use. In this method the "flusher" just keeps pumping new fluid into the transmission that gets mixed into the fluid already in the transmission until the fluid seems diluted enough to be called flushed and appears new. Real subjective to technician interpretation in my view.....
In any case make sure you change the filter and clean the bottom of the pan.
What he said^^^^^^^^^. That is what was recommended to me by a 30 year plus transmission builder. Personally I would stay away from "flushes" unless you KNOW the flusher knows what he is doing. Lots of tranny failures right after a flush due to stirring up unfiltered debris in the trans.
Just use good ole Mopar ATF +4 transmission fluid. It is good stuff.
My stock trans has held up great for 86,000 miles, changing the fluid and filter every 20k miles.....while pushing over 500 hp and towing heavy.
If you have the money to spare, a double deep pan will add some extra capacity (about 4 quarts) to give you a greater margin for error with hot temps. Heat will kill the life of your transmission fluid.
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Actually its not a flush per se.Its a fliud exchange.Best thing to happen to a auto trans since its invention.Do a SEARCH of the subject lots of reading.Also do a internet search.Read about the machines used,how they work etc.I sold and handled literaly hundereds of fliud exchanges on G.M. and Chrysler products.Never had it "create" a failure unless it was doomed and we/they kinda knew it from the get go.Never had "stir"old crud through anything.There is THE filter.All its doing is old fliud out and new fliud in.Totaly exchanging it.Only tranny service that I had customers comment about they 'really'noticed a differance it shift quality,torque convertor shudder was gone and it is a godsend to mail delivery vehicles,fleet trucks etc.Cut trans failure rates to a fraction of what some were experiencing.
Just did a fluid change on my '03. With 56K mile; I think it was the first trans. service. I bought it used and don't think it had been done before. Easiest trans. service I had ever done!! The pan came down easy and the reusable gasket is great. Sealed back up fine. Used Mopar atf-4 that I found at Wal-Mart. Going to service it more frequently now that I know it can be done in around 1/2 hour.
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Normal replacement of draind fluid is enough to restore good features of ATF not badly burnt or contiminated.
If you want to replace more fluid, try taking the rear cooler line loose. Install 1/2 inch hose on the loose tube and pump (run engine) into a catch can. AS soon as fluid starts sputtering, shut it down. Now you can drop pan without making near as much mess. If you loosen VB bolts at this time more fluid will drain over period of two hours. Retorque VB bolts and reinstall cooler line and proceed with rest of service. This should be enough loss of fluid to correct a contiminated fluid condition.
If you want to replace more fluid, try taking the rear cooler line loose. Install 1/2 inch hose on the loose tube and pump (run engine) into a catch can. AS soon as fluid starts sputtering, shut it down. Now you can drop pan without making near as much mess. If you loosen VB bolts at this time more fluid will drain over period of two hours. Retorque VB bolts and reinstall cooler line and proceed with rest of service. This should be enough loss of fluid to correct a contiminated fluid condition.
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The 1st 2 fuild changes (30k and 60k) I just dropped pan and replaced filter and refilled fluid. Used the same gasket as others had stated and just kept putting miles on the truck. The gaskets on the differentials and transmission pan are one thing Dodge did correct. Was going to do the same at 90k but decided it was time to go with the DTT. I think if the fuild had been overheated and burnt bad I may have done a complete fluid change by pulling a cooler line. If the fluid looks like it should and is not burnt I would just change filter and fluid button it back up.
Where is everyone getting the filters? I noticed Genos has them, they also sell a filter and gasket kit, what would the point of this be if the gasket is reusable? Just in case it gets ruined?
I have seen this procedure on the fourm before.
1. Remove pan, change filter, reinstall pan with original, reusable gasket.
2. Fill pan with new fluid.
3. Remove rear tranny cooling line where it goes into the tranny. That is the return line from the cooler. Attach enough (about 4 feet) clear tubing to make it over to a bucket placed by the driver's door.
4. I put my truck on jack stands and went through the gears while pumping out the old fluid. If this is too much hassle, you could just put the truck in neutral to pump the fluid. Park will not work.
5. Once fluid is pumped out, turn off truck, refill pan, repeat until fluid coming out is bright red. Or approx. 16 quarts or 4 gallons.
6. Reattach cooler line, then top off tranny after it has completely warmed up. To check tranny fluid level: engine running, level ground, hot, and in neutral.
1. Remove pan, change filter, reinstall pan with original, reusable gasket.
2. Fill pan with new fluid.
3. Remove rear tranny cooling line where it goes into the tranny. That is the return line from the cooler. Attach enough (about 4 feet) clear tubing to make it over to a bucket placed by the driver's door.
4. I put my truck on jack stands and went through the gears while pumping out the old fluid. If this is too much hassle, you could just put the truck in neutral to pump the fluid. Park will not work.
5. Once fluid is pumped out, turn off truck, refill pan, repeat until fluid coming out is bright red. Or approx. 16 quarts or 4 gallons.
6. Reattach cooler line, then top off tranny after it has completely warmed up. To check tranny fluid level: engine running, level ground, hot, and in neutral.
I would just get a filter from anywhere you find one like Napa drop pan cahange filter clean the pan adjust bands if ya think ya need to reinstall with the old gasket. You wouldnt change your motor oil without changin the FREAKIN FILTER would ya!!!
Seems to me they are both filters there to filter out particles and contaminents from lubricating fluids for a expensive and crucial piece of equipment and the suggested service says change the filter I will spend $15 to change my filter


