cant find drive shaft grease fittings
Agreed, mechanics at Dodge can't find the thing, that's pretty sad.
My mechanic didn't know how to enable high idle either.
Dodge does a poor job training these guys.
I found my grease point really easily, it's on the CV not the U-joint.
My mechanic didn't know how to enable high idle either.
Dodge does a poor job training these guys.
I found my grease point really easily, it's on the CV not the U-joint.
I got tired of looking a couple of years ago so removed the shaft and did it on the workbench. It would be easier to see if that x-member wasn't right in the way. It's still almost easier to take the shaft out rather than do the "turn and look, turn and look, turn and look" Clean and repeat process.
I don't understand, so on my 07 there isn't one on the driveshaft but ones on the CV joints... Because I could have sworn I saw something that looked like a zerk on the tcase side of the drive shaft.
But... I really didn't know there was ones on the CV joints, news to me.
But... I really didn't know there was ones on the CV joints, news to me.
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 9,375
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
it took me about 30 minutes to find it. painted a white spot with a paint marker. took my truck to get detailed for a car show and they painted the undercarriage and now I have to look for it again!

OK, just did this myself and Dodge really takes the
cake on the placement of the
grease zerk!
For the complete novice like me, here is what I did:
1) To build confidence, grease up the tie rod ends 1st. Much easier to access as they are the nipple looking things hanging the lowest on the tie rod ends. At first I thought they were bolts or something, but I just wiped the dirt off and found they had a recessed ball bearing at the tip. I took off the grease gun needle and snapped the grease gun end over the fittings and pumped until I saw a bit of grease pop out the top of the tie rod bushings (before the grease popped out, I heard the sound of air escaping, so that would probably be the better time to stop pumping). Then I wiped up the excess grease.
2) Now to tackle the zerk behind the u-joint. I basically rolled the vehicle back and forth to rotate the sticker and metal plate on the shaft as a reference and peeked past the u-joint as the picture posted above shows. Once I saw the edge of the zerk, I thought how the
do you get the needle into that with the massive crossmember in the way (you'll think the same thing). What you need to do is rotate the shaft until the zerk faces the bottom of the transmission and your head is basically under the transmission looking past the crossmember at the center of the zerk where the needle goes.
3) From this majorly awkward position, using either headlamp or pedistal lamp for lighting, try to guide the needle on a hose so that it enters from under the drivers side of the transmission over the crossmember into the zerk fitting. It'll be a tight fit and then it'll slide in more.
4) Once you feel it slide into the pinhole more, give it a few good pumps until you head air escaping and then some. Then slowly guide the needle out (unlike me who broke the
needle head off and had to use pliers to extract the needle head).
5) Curse Dodge engineers all the way back into the house, knowing you fulfilled your lubrication maintenance requirements all by yourself.
6)
on.
-Chris
cake on the placement of the
grease zerk!For the complete novice like me, here is what I did:
1) To build confidence, grease up the tie rod ends 1st. Much easier to access as they are the nipple looking things hanging the lowest on the tie rod ends. At first I thought they were bolts or something, but I just wiped the dirt off and found they had a recessed ball bearing at the tip. I took off the grease gun needle and snapped the grease gun end over the fittings and pumped until I saw a bit of grease pop out the top of the tie rod bushings (before the grease popped out, I heard the sound of air escaping, so that would probably be the better time to stop pumping). Then I wiped up the excess grease.
2) Now to tackle the zerk behind the u-joint. I basically rolled the vehicle back and forth to rotate the sticker and metal plate on the shaft as a reference and peeked past the u-joint as the picture posted above shows. Once I saw the edge of the zerk, I thought how the
do you get the needle into that with the massive crossmember in the way (you'll think the same thing). What you need to do is rotate the shaft until the zerk faces the bottom of the transmission and your head is basically under the transmission looking past the crossmember at the center of the zerk where the needle goes.3) From this majorly awkward position, using either headlamp or pedistal lamp for lighting, try to guide the needle on a hose so that it enters from under the drivers side of the transmission over the crossmember into the zerk fitting. It'll be a tight fit and then it'll slide in more.
4) Once you feel it slide into the pinhole more, give it a few good pumps until you head air escaping and then some. Then slowly guide the needle out (unlike me who broke the
needle head off and had to use pliers to extract the needle head).5) Curse Dodge engineers all the way back into the house, knowing you fulfilled your lubrication maintenance requirements all by yourself.
6)
on.-Chris
Actually, a Q-tip is the tool of choice to find it when it magically appears at the seven o'clock position from behind the u-joint cross! Hint: If you try this on Feb 02 and it sees it's shadow, you'll never find it! LOL
on dodge heavy duty diesel trucks 2003 to 2008 there are only three to four grease fittings.the grease fitting on your front driveshaft cv ball kit is 90 percent of the time closest to the tcase , it is threaded into a casting in the inner yoke of the cv behind the ujoint closest to the tcase, if need be the easiest way to find it is to remove the shaft from the front diff still attached to the tcase and rotate and clean around the ball kit until you find it, sometimes it has to be done this way but not every truck has a greaseable ball kit some are non greaseable. if you do not have one it is possible to be installed at any drive shaft rebuilder requires new ball kit and inner yoke and socket, i would recommend it, it means a lot of saved money in the long run. It can and will fail in the worst of times and tare the tcase out in the process, i work at a driveline shop in canada and have replaced many tcases and driveshafts in the time employed, my o4 didnt have a greaseable ball kit but was replaced asap with all new single cardon ujoints (3) and new ball kit and yoke.
Took some time to find it, but greased it on the first try. I think the secret is to put the needle in the hole first and then slip the grease gun on the needle fitting. admittedly, I was using one of those cheapo air grease guns so one hand was free to support the needle while the other squeezed the trigger. It will put a slight bend in the needle but not so much you can't put it back in the storage tube when you're done. If you give up and are need some help, I'm in the NE DAllas area.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
That is NOT the correct fitting.
The one you want is more of a tube that comes down to a tapered point, the theory is you push it against the fitting and when you pump the grease it will force grease into the joint filling it.
With the needle one in the picure grease will only go into the joint but will not be FORCED into the joint, a little will go but will eventually ooze out the hole you just shoved it in rather than being forced in.
The one you want is more of a tube that comes down to a tapered point, the theory is you push it against the fitting and when you pump the grease it will force grease into the joint filling it.
With the needle one in the picure grease will only go into the joint but will not be FORCED into the joint, a little will go but will eventually ooze out the hole you just shoved it in rather than being forced in.
That is NOT the correct fitting.
The one you want is more of a tube that comes down to a tapered point, the theory is you push it against the fitting and when you pump the grease it will force grease into the joint filling it.
With the needle one in the picure grease will only go into the joint but will not be FORCED into the joint, a little will go but will eventually ooze out the hole you just shoved it in rather than being forced in.
The one you want is more of a tube that comes down to a tapered point, the theory is you push it against the fitting and when you pump the grease it will force grease into the joint filling it.
With the needle one in the picure grease will only go into the joint but will not be FORCED into the joint, a little will go but will eventually ooze out the hole you just shoved it in rather than being forced in.
Registered User

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,640
Likes: 0
From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
There's a pic in this thread of what the proper grease gun fitting looks like (and the same one of the wrong one) 
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=124882

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=124882




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This is the tool. I bought mine from NAPA online and never looked back.