3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007 5.9 liter Engine and drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

Bump Up MPG

Old Jul 30, 2010 | 09:28 AM
  #16  
AH64ID's Avatar
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From: Kuna, Idaho
Originally Posted by Rednax
You don't have rearview mirrors? Or just don't know how to use them?
.
No its not that simple, where there are 2 lanes, and the truckers and the cars are all going 7-20 mph faster than you its just not as safe. Its guys like you going 58 in a 75 that cause issues. Talk with some hwy cops, they'll tell you it's much less safe.

65 is the bottom speed I can go and not have "too slow" issues, but 68 works better as most the trucks stick to 65-67 and you can go up or down a mph or two to get around them, or let traffic get around you.

All your explaining just shows how much you only think of your little bubble, and not the bigger picture. Sure you may be safely driving, but the reality is that the other folks on the road aren't expecting you to be going that slow, nearly 20 under a posted limit, on an interstate where the posted limit can be maintained with minimal effort. So truck have to pass you, as your under their limit in many states, now you have a slow and a slower rig blocking both lanes, and a hoard of cars coming up at 20mph faster than you. What are you going to do with your mirrors at this point? Use them to pull off on the shoulder?

Your individual driving may not effect you, your time to get there, etc, and if someone causes an accident it will most likely be legally their fault, but slow moving traffic causes plenty of accidents on the interstate.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Rednax
You don't have rearview mirrors? Or just don't know how to use them?

It is that simple.

("You" being anyone who "thinks" this way: not-thinking; an irrational assumption).

I drove governed big trucks and learned that 55 (or 62) is no big deal. Let's go through it:

I am liable for my actions. Not that of others.

The SIGNED "limit" is only under ideal conditions of perfect daylight weather and very light traffic (200' spacing distance for reasonability in re stopping/reaction distances). The ACTUAL speed limit is one of prudence where even a decent crosswind or medium traffic DENIES the use of the highest possible speed. And, for limited access Interstates, the MINIMUM is 45 mph. (See state law). You can be ticketed for speeding in ANY state and be well under the "limit".

As to being "run over" (the fear of the sheeple; an excuse to avoid thinking, thus responsibility: the hallmark of citizenry) in the 18,000 miles I recently accumulated on the same stretch of Interstate and divided four lane US highway, I maybe two or three times had others hit their brakes running up on me (day, night, clear, raining, you-name-it).

Rearview mirrors allow me to know what the future will look like. Combined with what is in front of me it is only a matter of time/distance intuitions/calculations about any action I may need to take. The difference between "you" and me is that I know how to make them, and have experience in various tactics. There are ways to "flow the traffic around and past" that I will use on you and you won't be aware I've done it . . . .

A man running down the road within the limits has the ROW. The speeder DOES NOT. (I suspect, rightly, that "you" also do not know the difference between overtaking and passing; the former has ZERO right-of-way when the slow moving vehicle moves to the left lane to pass an even slower vehicle, or to make room for an emergency vehicle on the shoulder, etc). So let me get the spoon out: Speeding is too fast for conditions, NOT the posted high limit, and it includes slower moving vehicles.

It isn't rocket science. It involves thinking, what separates men from boys . . . if I used "your" form of argument about firearms "you" would be all over it: I am not allowed prudence within the law due to the ignorance & irresponsibility of others, thus I am barred from the use of firearms when others may be present (concealed carry). Etc. Knowing the law means having thought about it's ramifications.

Why do you think you HAVE rear view mirrors? Or signalling devices, or marker and clearance lamps and reflectors? Your vehicle is required to have two headlights, windshield wipers, etc. Or that the roads themselves are marked, signed, graded and paved? Driving falls under a set of sets of rules.

"Crazy", sir, is the one who thinks his childish wants supercede those sets.

I can imagine that "you" are also one who gets down the road with cruise control on into blind curves and over hills . . that X-ray vision would be a handy upgrade I can't yet afford. I don't need to imagine that you are also one who travels along in the packs of cretins, bumper-to-bumper for all practical purposes, as this now constitutes 90+% of Interstate traffic.

I'll also bet that "you" are also the one who changes over to the right lane -- with no use, or improper use, of a turn signal -- and cut off my braking distance (huge ROW violation) so that the tailgating left-lane morons -- geez, they're faster -- can proceed. And pat yourself on the back for your "courtesy".

Texas has more miles of roadway than the old Soviet Union. And of every conceivable type as well as speed limits to 80 mph. I have not ever found being slower than the majority of traffic -- in nearly forty years -- to be a problem. Ever.

"Your" argument about "safety", lacking merit, is as inaccurate as "a couple of bucks" in regards vehicle operating costs. Americans seem to think that the finance/principal payment and fuel cost are the sum of their ownership costs. On a new, stock, truck (one of ours) that cost is in excess of 96-cents per mile (60k over 5-years), yet how often does that thought cross the mind when hitting the key to run to the c-store for a pack of something? Never, is my guess.

Americans are now averaging 20% of before-tax income for transportation costs, the highest in the past century.

That $48k 2010 Ram "costs" $72k after 5-yrs/60k out-of-pocket.

If I use 650 gallons to cover the past 15,000 miles (actual), and your truck has used 1,000 gallons (15 mpg, as reported by an aftermarket tuner in a poll of users), then it is more than a couple of bucks. At $3/gl it is $1,000. At $6/gl (foreseeable) it is $2,100.

Fuel is a variable expense. Most of the others are not. Perhaps I should ask, "Why add the complexity of an aftermarket coolant filtration system with attendant leakage potential", as there is no evidence that the stock system is inadequate? (Great write-up, an "idea" I agree with, but what fleet users are blazing this path . . I suspect there are none, as it's utility is near moot). Added maintenance, complexity and the rest are often just ways of shortening vehicle life (with the ironic opposite intention). The "payoff" cannot be found (except to personal satisfaction). And coolant is slippery stuff . . your truck pukes it . . you slow . . and I have to hit the brakes while rolling through that stuff? Safety? Economy? Get real.

Especially as the faster you run, the shorter the vehicle life will be. Component by component, and overall. Same for tuners, lift kits, excess baggage, etc. Same for exceeding weight limits of any sort. Excuses, justifications, magical thinking.

The only magic, in re fuel economy, is how easy it is once one starts to practice. Practice starts with reviewing and understanding the rules of the road.

60 mph is the point where aerodynamic resistance is the chief impediment to fuel economy.

On a 300-mile drive, the difference between 70 and 60 is about a half-hour, and, as I have stated elsewhere, "you" will spend more time that same day with the channel changer. So learn to place the appropriate value where it belongs: lower fuel bill, longer component & vehicle life, reduced liability, greater scope for action, decreased stopping distance, are all a heckuva lot more valuable than running with the sheep herd toward the rendering plant gate.

A truck is a tool to make money. Or, at least to forestall the expense of not having one. And what are the statistics regarding pickup trucks in accident data where "speed" is the primary or contributing factor? In all cases it is below speeds deemed prudent for cars. I'm afraid "your" argument not only lacks merit, but plain common sense for what a truck was intended and is capable. That "you" wish to confuse desire and reality is not, unfortunately, any longer uncommon among adults in this country.

.
Ummmmmmmm....Whoa are you a pyscho therapist? Just say no to drugs...
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 09:35 AM
  #18  
CoastalDav's Avatar
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From: Melbourne, Florida
Originally Posted by hfhanson
What can I check, or what modes do I need to do to bump my fuel mileage up? I’m getting about 14 to 16 every day driving and about 8 to 10 pulling my 5th wheel witch is about 14K to 15K. There is about 160K on it now, I am not sure what has been done to the engine cines I am the 2nd owner. From what I have been reading on the forum what others are getting I am not happy.
Do you know what the rear ratio is ? Below is 3.73 gears RPM 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th. It will run together as it won't have any spaces.

1500 7 11 19 27 38 52
1600 7 12 20 29 40 55
1700 8 13 21 31 43 59
1800 8 13 22 33 46 62
1900 9 14 24 35 48 66
2000 9 15 25 36 51 69
2100 9 16 26 38 53 73
2200 10 16 27 40 56 76

4.10's below

1500 6 10 17 25 35 47
1600 7 11 18 27 37 50
1700 7 12 19 28 39 54
1800 7 12 20 30 41 57
1900 8 13 21 31 44 60
2000 8 14 23 33 46 63
2100 9 14 24 35 48 66


Check the snorkel that runs between the air filter box and the fender well. Make sure its not stopped up or restricted. If you have 4.10's you need to keep the rpm's under 2000 to get any mileage. Have a friend with a an 05 same tranny as you, with 4.10's and get 20 on the hwy slowed down. Pulls a
36ft Carri Lite (Carriage 16,000lbs) averages 12.3 or better.

I guess there is no way to tell if the previous owner used a programer and left the perfromance settings in the cpu when he sold it. Since your way over warranty, I think its about 60 dollars to have Dodge reflash the computer back to OEM settings.

Dave
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 10:29 AM
  #19  
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Check the snorkel that runs between the air filter box and the fender well. Make sure its not stopped up or restricted. If you have 4.10's you need to keep the rpm's under 2000 to get any mileage. Have a friend with a an 05 same tranny as you, with 4.10's and get 20 on the hwy slowed down. Pulls a
36ft Carri Lite (Carriage 16,000lbs) averages 12.3 or better.

I guess there is no way to tell if the previous owner used a programer and left the perfromance settings in the cpu when he sold it. Since your way over warranty, I think its about 60 dollars to have Dodge reflash the computer back to OEM settings.

Dave[/QUOTE]

Check the snorkel that runs between the air filter box and the fender well. that is all ok. I have 4.10's, also I know the previous owner used a programer on it, I can see the left over tape on the fues box cover and there is a P code left in the cpu, P0839 over boost. I am going to be putting an edge juice on it, do you think I should get it re flashed before I do?
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 11:34 AM
  #20  
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From: Melbourne, Florida
I would get it reflashed first since you don't know what the compatibility is between what is there and what your going to install.

You got one Lab or two?

Dave
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 12:50 PM
  #21  
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From: Kissimmee, FL
Originally Posted by CoastalDav
I would get it reflashed first since you don't know what the compatibility is between what is there and what your going to install.

You got one Lab or two?

Dave
I have one yellow lab dog, is that what you mean by one lab or two?
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 01:49 PM
  #22  
ib516's Avatar
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From: Sask, Canada
Your mpg sound normal and correct to me. I get slightly better towing and empty but:
- My 3500 is a SRW, yours is a DRW
- I have an auto trans with a higher OD gear (mine is 0.69:1, your NV5600 is 0.79:1) for less highway RPM
- Your RV is heavier than mine

So, to me, your numbers are spot on.

I get 10-12 towing 11,500# 36' 5th wheel, and 19-22 empty highway at 65 mph.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 02:15 PM
  #23  
CoastalDav's Avatar
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From: Melbourne, Florida
Originally Posted by hfhanson
I have one yellow lab dog, is that what you mean by one lab or two?
Yea; I thought I saw a chocolate head in that picture next to the yellow lab.
I was looking at your gallery.

thanks for the reply.
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 09:17 PM
  #24  
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From: Washington state
Originally Posted by Rednax
You don't have rearview mirrors? Or just don't know how to use them?

It is that simple.

("You" being anyone who "thinks" this way: not-thinking; an irrational assumption).

I drove governed big trucks and learned that 55 (or 62) is no big deal. Let's go through it:

I am liable for my actions. Not that of others.

The SIGNED "limit" is only under ideal conditions of perfect daylight weather and very light traffic (200' spacing distance for reasonability in re stopping/reaction distances). The ACTUAL speed limit is one of prudence where even a decent crosswind or medium traffic DENIES the use of the highest possible speed. And, for limited access Interstates, the MINIMUM is 45 mph. (See state law). You can be ticketed for speeding in ANY state and be well under the "limit".

As to being "run over" (the fear of the sheeple; an excuse to avoid thinking, thus responsibility: the hallmark of citizenry) in the 18,000 miles I recently accumulated on the same stretch of Interstate and divided four lane US highway, I maybe two or three times had others hit their brakes running up on me (day, night, clear, raining, you-name-it).

Rearview mirrors allow me to know what the future will look like. Combined with what is in front of me it is only a matter of time/distance intuitions/calculations about any action I may need to take. The difference between "you" and me is that I know how to make them, and have experience in various tactics. There are ways to "flow the traffic around and past" that I will use on you and you won't be aware I've done it . . . .

A man running down the road within the limits has the ROW. The speeder DOES NOT. (I suspect, rightly, that "you" also do not know the difference between overtaking and passing; the former has ZERO right-of-way when the slow moving vehicle moves to the left lane to pass an even slower vehicle, or to make room for an emergency vehicle on the shoulder, etc). So let me get the spoon out: Speeding is too fast for conditions, NOT the posted high limit, and it includes slower moving vehicles.

It isn't rocket science. It involves thinking, what separates men from boys . . . if I used "your" form of argument about firearms "you" would be all over it: I am not allowed prudence within the law due to the ignorance & irresponsibility of others, thus I am barred from the use of firearms when others may be present (concealed carry). Etc. Knowing the law means having thought about it's ramifications.

Why do you think you HAVE rear view mirrors? Or signalling devices, or marker and clearance lamps and reflectors? Your vehicle is required to have two headlights, windshield wipers, etc. Or that the roads themselves are marked, signed, graded and paved? Driving falls under a set of sets of rules.

"Crazy", sir, is the one who thinks his childish wants supercede those sets.

I can imagine that "you" are also one who gets down the road with cruise control on into blind curves and over hills . . that X-ray vision would be a handy upgrade I can't yet afford. I don't need to imagine that you are also one who travels along in the packs of cretins, bumper-to-bumper for all practical purposes, as this now constitutes 90+% of Interstate traffic.

I'll also bet that "you" are also the one who changes over to the right lane -- with no use, or improper use, of a turn signal -- and cut off my braking distance (huge ROW violation) so that the tailgating left-lane morons -- geez, they're faster -- can proceed. And pat yourself on the back for your "courtesy".

Texas has more miles of roadway than the old Soviet Union. And of every conceivable type as well as speed limits to 80 mph. I have not ever found being slower than the majority of traffic -- in nearly forty years -- to be a problem. Ever.

"Your" argument about "safety", lacking merit, is as inaccurate as "a couple of bucks" in regards vehicle operating costs. Americans seem to think that the finance/principal payment and fuel cost are the sum of their ownership costs. On a new, stock, truck (one of ours) that cost is in excess of 96-cents per mile (60k over 5-years), yet how often does that thought cross the mind when hitting the key to run to the c-store for a pack of something? Never, is my guess.

Americans are now averaging 20% of before-tax income for transportation costs, the highest in the past century.

That $48k 2010 Ram "costs" $72k after 5-yrs/60k out-of-pocket.

If I use 650 gallons to cover the past 15,000 miles (actual), and your truck has used 1,000 gallons (15 mpg, as reported by an aftermarket tuner in a poll of users), then it is more than a couple of bucks. At $3/gl it is $1,000. At $6/gl (foreseeable) it is $2,100.

Fuel is a variable expense. Most of the others are not. Perhaps I should ask, "Why add the complexity of an aftermarket coolant filtration system with attendant leakage potential", as there is no evidence that the stock system is inadequate? (Great write-up, an "idea" I agree with, but what fleet users are blazing this path . . I suspect there are none, as it's utility is near moot). Added maintenance, complexity and the rest are often just ways of shortening vehicle life (with the ironic opposite intention). The "payoff" cannot be found (except to personal satisfaction). And coolant is slippery stuff . . your truck pukes it . . you slow . . and I have to hit the brakes while rolling through that stuff? Safety? Economy? Get real.

Especially as the faster you run, the shorter the vehicle life will be. Component by component, and overall. Same for tuners, lift kits, excess baggage, etc. Same for exceeding weight limits of any sort. Excuses, justifications, magical thinking.

The only magic, in re fuel economy, is how easy it is once one starts to practice. Practice starts with reviewing and understanding the rules of the road.

60 mph is the point where aerodynamic resistance is the chief impediment to fuel economy.

On a 300-mile drive, the difference between 70 and 60 is about a half-hour, and, as I have stated elsewhere, "you" will spend more time that same day with the channel changer. So learn to place the appropriate value where it belongs: lower fuel bill, longer component & vehicle life, reduced liability, greater scope for action, decreased stopping distance, are all a heckuva lot more valuable than running with the sheep herd toward the rendering plant gate.

A truck is a tool to make money. Or, at least to forestall the expense of not having one. And what are the statistics regarding pickup trucks in accident data where "speed" is the primary or contributing factor? In all cases it is below speeds deemed prudent for cars. I'm afraid "your" argument not only lacks merit, but plain common sense for what a truck was intended and is capable. That "you" wish to confuse desire and reality is not, unfortunately, any longer uncommon among adults in this country.

.
Didnt I pass you the other day? you had a turbin on your head if I remember right?
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 11:58 PM
  #25  
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From: Flagstaff, AZ
Originally Posted by Rednax
You don't have rearview mirrors? Or just don't know how to use them?

It is that simple.

("You" being anyone who "thinks" this way: not-thinking; an irrational assumption).

I drove governed big trucks and learned that 55 (or 62) is no big deal. Let's go through it:

I am liable for my actions. Not that of others.

Blah blah blah....
While I understand the intent of your post it reads as if were written with a holier than thou attitude. Calm down keyboard commando

My 3/4 ton truck is not a tool to make money, it is basic transportation the majority of the time and assists in furthering my recreation when towing. I drive within a couple of MPH of the speed limit (about 5 MPH under when towing), never 15+ MPH under the speed limit. While it may be legal, I find it unsafe to force other drivers who are adhering to the posted limit around an exceptionally slow moving vehicle. If I want to drive 55 MPH I stay off the interstate.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 10:05 AM
  #26  
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From: Calgary
Originally Posted by Rednax
I have not ever found being slower than the majority of traffic -- in nearly forty years -- to be a problem. Ever.

.
Here is the root of this whole post. YOU aren't the problem

I beg to differ.
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 11:17 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by hfhanson
What can I check, or what modes do I need to do to bump my fuel mileage up? I’m getting about 14 to 16 every day driving and about 8 to 10 pulling my 5th wheel witch is about 14K to 15K. There is about 160K on it now, I am not sure what has been done to the engine cines I am the 2nd owner. From what I have been reading on the forum what others are getting I am not happy.
My 2007 5.9 was getting 18-18.5 city/highway(canadian gallon) hand calculated. I installed an AFE stage II pro guard 7 cold air intake and a 4" turbo back exhaust. Fuel economy went up to 19.4 hand calc. I have been running Howes diesel fuel treat at 250ml to a tank of fuel. I started running the cetane 8+ fuel conditioner in March at the same 250ml to a tank of fuel. The last 5 tanks of fuel I have seen my mileage go up to 20.6 hand calc city highway and on a straight highway run from Edmonton to Winnipeg I averaged 23.6 mpg.(average 65mph) Previous highway runs were always 19.8 or so. Truck has only 75000kms or 47000 miles. The truck idles smoother with the cetane 8+. I noticed the change in engine idle/tone the same time the fuel mlieage started to increase. Last tank of fuel I managed 630 miles or 1018kms.
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #28  
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From: Wake Village, Tx
My truck in the sig gets 11-12 towing 10k in the city, 13-14 towing on the highway, on the highway I keep speed to 68 mph puts my revs right around 1900. I tow everyday, I forgot my milage unloaded because it's been so long since I've run around empty!!! 68 mph on hwy unloaded was around 18, but that number was from at least a year ago!! Twins, smarty and transmission have come since then..
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 11:07 PM
  #29  
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From: Pueblo West
I don't know about your towing mpg but I think your empty mpg should be higher. Mine is a 4.10, 6sp, 2wd (dually) and I average~13 towing, 18.3 empty (summer and AC always on) and 19.8 winter. All my empty miles are about 50/50 mixed, country roads/city. Craig
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 10:48 AM
  #30  
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From: Kuna, Idaho
Originally Posted by ib516
Your mpg sound normal and correct to me. I get slightly better towing and empty but:
- My 3500 is a SRW, yours is a DRW
- I have an auto trans with a higher OD gear (mine is 0.69:1, your NV5600 is 0.79:1) for less highway RPM
- Your RV is heavier than mine

So, to me, your numbers are spot on.

I get 10-12 towing 11,500# 36' 5th wheel, and 19-22 empty highway at 65 mph.
Th NV5600 has a 0.73:1 OD ratio. The G56 AD has the 0.79:1.
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