are the rear brakes a pain to take apart and replace?? all of a sudden I am getting a really strong burning smell coming from the rear, and a slight pulsating. I would love to save some money and do them myself (and just have the shop turn the rotors).

any help would be appreciated.

cheers!

 

they are no harder to do that the fronts IMO if you can do the fronts; you should be able to do the rears.

 

well, I havent done the fronts, so I still have no idea...but thanks! luckily if I get too over my head, the shop is only 6 blocks away

 

well, I think I see where my problems began. I am almost done, I changed both rotors out, and once set of pads so far. went to the problem side of the truck, and was going to put the new pads in, but the pistons are totally locked up...I cant open them up at all to get the new pads wide enough to fit over the rotor.

any ideas on how to fix that? I guess having the pistons locked up, made the pads lock up, and that is where the excessive heat and burning smell came from.

 

remove the caliper from the truck. Remove the pads, and put a block of wood in there. Use a blow gun and pressurize the caliper until the piston pops out. Be sure to inspect the piston for any damage. If the piston is OK, clean it all up, put in new seals, and re-assemble.

 

thanks for the reply, it was pretty bad, and only 50 bucks for a new caliper (after core exchange) so I just went that route. glad to be done with that! the only reason it took so long was I spent all day waiting for someone to come help me bleed the brakes, I would have been done in about 3 hours if I had someone hanging out.

 

I generally have to do that job by myself. I pump up the pedal a few times, then use a piece of 2x4 against the front of the seat to hold the pedal down. A little time consuming, but usually faster than waiting for someone to come along and help out.

 

I use the same principle but I use my truck club, its nice cause I could adjust and lock the position.

 

wait, you pump it a few times, then pin it down with the 2x4, then go and unscrew the bleed bolt? or unscrew the bleed bolt and pump the pedal a few times (wouldnt that let air into the line?) either way, good to know you can do it yourself. I will remember it for the future.

 

I have an inexpensive plastic hand held suction pump. I loosen the bleed screw and draw the air out and it is all good. To answer a question before it is asked, several pumps creates residual vacuum and that is when I tighten the bleed screw. Works excellent and do not get the interior dirty getting in and out.

 

Here is the link to what I have.... Ports for both vacuum and pressure
http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvp.asp#04010

 

Pump the pedal a couple of times, then use a 2x4 to hold the pedal down. Open the bleed screw, and watch for bubbles. Close the bleeder. Repeat as needed.

It takes a while, but you can get the job done.

I bought one of those cheap brake bleading "kits" from somewhere. It's a plastic bottle with a magnet on the side, and a collection tube. Place the tube over the bleeder screw and watch for air bubbles. When the bubles are gone, the caliper is ready.