Best Oil And Filter?
Registered User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 282
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From: Kailua Kona, Hawaii
Most of the trucks here use Fleetguard (Stratapore) oil filter part number LF16035. Geno's usually has a good price.
As for the oil, there are a lot of different companies. I use Amsoil.
As for the oil, there are a lot of different companies. I use Amsoil.
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,680
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From: McKinney, TX
Originally Posted by WEATHERBY460
I have searched and just can't find anything....................so tell, me what I should go with?
You know you are going to start another OIL BRAND war on here don't you?
Some swear by synthetics. Some swear by any brand but change it often.
There was a poll on here a few months ago, and the NUMBER ONE brand of oil used by members of this board that voted in the poll............WAS....
Shell Rotella T 15W40 regular dino oil with 40 percent. ALL THE OTHERS including the synthetics, SHARED the other 60 percent.
Personally.........I believe the man (lab tech) I spoke with at Blackstone-Labs who advised me that no matter what oil you run you need to change it out in order to get out the metallic particles that the filter IS GOING TO MISS. I change mine every 5k like clockwork. He advised that I could go longer, maybe up to 8k or so......but did not recommend going over 10k. The oil just needs to come out to get that material out of it, regardless of the oil properties. So any of the oils will do fine including the synthetics......but why spend that much money to change the oil when it needs to come out and replaced anyway at reasonable intervals?
There are some million mile trucks out there running Shell Rotella T. Someday I plan on mine being one of them. Also, I only run Fleetguard Stratapore Filters. My 2 cents.
Muted User
Joined: Jul 2006
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another good reason to change oil often (besides the unwanted debris that accumulates) is molecular breakdown. Some of us gringos did some research on this pertaining to our motorcycles. It seems that one of the primary differences between synthetic oils and dino oils are the length of the molecule strain, along with it's molecular bond strength. This was more of a concern with my particular kind of bike because it has a constant mesh gearbox that shares the crankcase oil. These gear teeth are especially hard on oils and tend to break them down. Since synthetics have a shorter molecule strand and a more robust one, it takes longer for the gears to "smash" synthetics up. Some testing was done and dino oils in this application would loose a significant amount of it's ability to protect the engine as quickly as a thousand miles. The synthetics faired better than twice that. I have 8k miles on my bike and have changed the oil 12 times. 
car/truck engines tend to be much kinder to the oil in them and I can't really see a benefit to running synthetics unless you are using the engine in an enviroment with really high oil temps, for example: enclosed marine engines. I use Rotella T 15/40 ($9 a gallon) in my truck if for no other reason, that it forces me to change oil/filter at shorter intervals. While you can run synthetic for a longer period due to it's superior molecular structure, you still get the same amount of "gunk" in the oil per mile driven. So I prefer to change the oil/filter every 3-3.5k miles to keep the oil clean. It doesn't matter how good the oil lubricates if there are abrasives in it due to over use. Changing this often in synthetics would be ideal but pricey.
Besides, I rather enjoy crawling underneath the truck and gettin dirty, I'll spend a half a day under there lubing the drivetrain and checking to make sure all is in good order.
car/truck engines tend to be much kinder to the oil in them and I can't really see a benefit to running synthetics unless you are using the engine in an enviroment with really high oil temps, for example: enclosed marine engines. I use Rotella T 15/40 ($9 a gallon) in my truck if for no other reason, that it forces me to change oil/filter at shorter intervals. While you can run synthetic for a longer period due to it's superior molecular structure, you still get the same amount of "gunk" in the oil per mile driven. So I prefer to change the oil/filter every 3-3.5k miles to keep the oil clean. It doesn't matter how good the oil lubricates if there are abrasives in it due to over use. Changing this often in synthetics would be ideal but pricey.
Besides, I rather enjoy crawling underneath the truck and gettin dirty, I'll spend a half a day under there lubing the drivetrain and checking to make sure all is in good order.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Beaumont, Tx
Royal Purple
I use 15w/40 royal purple, and Napa filter. some people talk down rp, but it is one of the cheapest syn oils out there. weve got 2 7.3's fords with over 300,000 on each one. both pull 6,000 lb gooseneck, and 14000lb ford 555c, and the other one a 13500 case 580k almost on a daily basis, between hauling cows and horses around. all of our equipment, boats, etc. have it . i pulled my tranny cover off at 140000 on my old powerstroke. had been running rp atf in it for 80000, it had almost no clutch dust, and no metal shavings. when i wasnt pulling 20000, i was blowing smoke in little rice burners windows!
semper
semper
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Joined: Nov 2005
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Registered User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,988
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From: Nebraska
When was the last time anyone (besides the boys pushing 1,000 hp) ever blew an engine due to oil? Just use an oil rated for diesel and a good filter and change it every 5,000 miles and for get it.
We should be talking about more important things like taste of water.
We should be talking about more important things like taste of water.