If you got an ohm meter, set it to the lowest setting. Unplug the harness connections and test each solenoid. If the reading is more than 1.0, the solenoid is faulty and that's what's causing the misfire. Readings should be .4 to .7 on a good injector.

That's some good advice. Thanks. I'm still learning about the 3rd gens.
Now, that will only tell me if the solenoid is bad, right?
And if I have a bad Injector tip/body then this test won't indicate that?
Thanks.
I also bought the fuel rail cap tool to block off injectors one at a time to test them, to isolate the bad one.

Will only work when the symptoms appear as you mentioned earlier.

If the tip is blown, your oil level would be on the rise, and fast. Also, the chance of a scored cylinder is much higher.

But yes, this only checks for a solenoid issue, which this is one of the symptoms. To accurately check to a high return rate, which is another symptom, the dealer can do it electronically. Save a lot of time, but it'll be 1 hour shop rate.

One other option is to pull all 6 and have them bench tested. Last I was quoted, $25 an injector.

I'd try the ohm test first, then go from there. If you find the one with a meter, cap it and see what it does.

I just got my injectors back and 3 of them had high return! Time to replace them !

Ok. Thanks. I'll check ohms first. But prob have all tested on Monday.
I'm ready to drive this thing.

I checked resistance tonight, all were around .4 ohms. So i pulled all injetors. Getting tested tomorrow, number 2 seemed to have LOTS of fuel around it when i pulled it. maybe it was just my imaginiation.
I did notice lots of carbon on the tips.
Update tomorrow when I find out.
Where is good place to get Fuel limiting valve, Genos has entire rail for $300. Cummins wants Around 300 for just the valve.
Any ideas?

No, that won't happen. You can crack a tip and completly wear the holse out and there may be a small percentage of excess fuel in the oil but it won't fill the crankcase.

If the pintle seat goes it will likely melt the piston and scuff the cylinder walls plus add some fuel to the oil but not that much.

If you crack a body that is exposed to full rail pressure then you slowly replace the oil with diesel.

Since the solenoids are good the miss is likely a hard part injector failure. A competent shop should be able to diagnose that and tell you if the others are ready for replacement.

Well, Bad news. 2 injectors Failed horribly. 3 were at the high side of the "ok/beginning to fail" spec". and 2 were ok, if you consider having 200K on them "ok". So I bought a "6 pack"................. of injectors.
and new tubes and misc gaskets. I put some of it together tonight, but got hungry and went in to eat. Going to finsh tomorrow and hopefully take it for a spin.

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Doesn't surprise me at all! Glad you found out the problems.

Let us know how it runs with the new parts.

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John_P

Left truck outside the other night after injctor install. Was 14F the next morning. Hit the key and it popped right off. And idles very smooth.
I'm extremely thankful for the help. This was way more productive than listening to some of the clowns at some of these local shops. And I'm very happy my truck is running again. Except this repair used ip all my money for line-x, Smarty, gauges, south bend, intake etc
So if anyone has some sweet deals on any of that, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks again.

That's great to hear. That gives me some hope when my injectors arrive! How did u find adjusting your valve lash?

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roughstock:

Thanks for the update on your truck! Glad to hear it is running good now especially in the cold weather you are having.

changed leaky injectors now she starts up great!

Glad It worked out for ya, It was a relief to get mine running right again.