where do u guys drive? what is death wobble? ive had my truck up to 165 km hour and no wobble. i can let go of my wheel and its str8 as a arrow.

 

most cars and trucks are fine driving, i don't know why this POS is doing that so bad and to so many people, its unbelieveable!!! is not where we drive, it just happens anywhere depending how you hit a certeain bumps on the road, the front suspension starts acting up and your truck shakes like crazy side to side, in my case the only way to stopping it is by hitting the brakes and slow down to 35mph.

 

Hey if it wasnt safe do you think bullydog would let you change the speedlimiter. Come on i dont think so. I have had the speedometer buried before and the deathwobble didnt occur.

 

yes they would let you!!! they let you change it because when you buy it stuff like that it says for "off road only" or in this case race and track. plus they don't give a crap either if you kill someone on the road because you were being stupid.
not because they sell it it means its "safe"!!!
vipers are 500+ hp and that doesn't mean its safe to drive it over 150mph on a regular road.

 

i have owned 7 dodge drw with 2 being 2wd and the others 4wd and have logged at least 500k in them and have never had this dw and i have gone thru a lot of states that have crappy roads

 

Have a buddy with a 2007 6.7 tires/wheels, no lift that has DW at only 4500 miles. He is trading it in because he is afraid for his wife driving it and his young child in the truck. Just can't trust something that goes out of control like that. It does happen, most say worn front end parts, but something in the geometry in the front of these trucks make them more susceptable to it.

 

Not enough straight-tracking positive caster in the axle and too much compliance in the track bar... frame-to-axle suspension link changes length in direct proportion to lateral load while drag link (Pitman arm to axle knuckle) remains fixed length.

Ripe conditions for a bump steer-induced lateral shimmy & roll axis departure - often characterized by ultimately violent oscillations of rapidly increasing force & intensity.

 

Sweet!! And there we have it, the technical reason why DW is such a problem in these trucks... I'll have to mark this one for further use....

 

and the solution???

 

I sure hope you were on a track at the time.....

 

I do not feel death wobble on these trucks is bump steer induced in any way. With factory geometry, these trucks are actually quite correct when it comes to drag link/trackbar balance..

 

Making sure you don't have a tire made by Bf Goodrich is the first step..

I have loved BFG tires for as long as I can remember, and refused for the longest time to play along with the notion they could be any worse than any other tire brand..

I can't ignore the numbers any more. If the truck has BFG's and DW, 9 out of 10 times the DW is GONE as soon as the word BfGoodrich is gone from the sidewalls..

 

Set alignment for max positive caster (spec 5 degrees - don't accept "green zone" as good enough!) and keep front tire pressure high. Good shocks and aftermarket steering damper can help by masking the DW tendency.

Zero-deflection track bar bushings remove the compliance from the axle-frame link, and a sector shaft stabilizer for the steering gear box tightens up the steering response while reducing steering wheel effort.

Urethane sway bar mounts & end link bushings, high-durometer control arm bushings and proper torque on all suspension/steering hardware are also a step in the right direction.

Basically, anything you do that improves tracking & reduces flex in the front end will push the DW envelope further away from the conditions you actually drive in.

Heavier tires, taller sidewalls, narrower treads, lower load ratings, individually-lugged treads, worn ball joints, tie-rod ends, etc. all help foster DW.

... and for goodness sake, pay even more attention to this stuff when the front end is lifted or "leveled" - 2" higher off the axle sucks a bunch of positive caster out of the front end (unless you have longer control arms, which restore the correct OEM suspension geometry).

 

I run much larger D rated tires at low pressures, and the trucks I set up are more stable and safe than they were with the stock E rated 265's...

Picking the correct brand/construction of tire has more to do with having a safe truck than the rating on the side of it..

More caster can actually make DW worse with less wheel backspacing/positive offset.. OE offset wheels will have the best handling/performance with about 5 degrees, but then you are more prone to driveshaft vibes when the suspension droops.

Many tradeoffs. I guess my findings are different than what you read all over the internet..

 

I know the 2nd gen trucks lost positive caster once lifted a bit, but I think the 3rd gens actually go positive when lifted. I'll check tomorrow-ish...

Longer control arms arent going to fix the lifted trucks new roll/instant center.

I like to call it the "skateboard effect" with 5+ inches of lift and short arms..