You can see from the threads I've started that I tried about everything I can think of.
Here's a breakdown of the problem:

A couple of years ago, my p/u started giving starting problems when the weather got cold. It would just turn over and over. I started plugging it in and it would start. Until this summer, the problem only occurred once the temperature got below about 40 degrees. This summer, I noticed that the turn over time was longer than it should be, but it will eventually start. Cool weather's comin on now and some mornins are about 50. This causes me to try about 3 times (about 5 seconds apiece) to get it to start.

Here's what I've done:

Checked batteries
Changed heater grid under intake horn
changed FCA
Checked Pressure Relief Valve
Looked for any leaks in the fuel system (can't find any)
Retorqued inj tubes and cross bars
Put on a computer, pressures looked ok

Latest: I read something somewhere mentioning the fan clutch sensor. Thinking I had nothing to loose, I unplugged and saw immediate results, starting much easier, much quicker. This result just kind of 'wore off' after about a week.

I've searched on here about starting issues and found that alot of 2003's have them, but in a lot of different forms and alot of different solutions. I'm real reluctant to take somewhere, where the bill will get high and not give any results. Injectors are high and I've nothin else to drive while they get tested.

I'm not burnin or makin oil and I'm about into cold weather again and the headaches I'm goin to have with this thing. It only has 240,000 miles on it.

Anybody have any other suggestions or things to check? I would think with as many 2003's with starting issues out there, there might be a common issue that I just haven't come across yet.

I'd really appreciate any help at all.

 

Its your injectors allowing pressure to bleed off back to the tank. This right here Bully Dog Power Pup
along with running stock filtering system is whats killing them. You can check the rail pressure while cranking if your barely seeing 4 to 5k then thats your issue. You cann cap them one at a time and see if it starts quicker. The reason it does it cold is the tolerances fall below spec in the bodies and allow fuel to pass. They wont make oil when the do this.

 

Thanks. I'll get someone who can cap off and check. I appreciate your response.

 

You should perform this test since you might have more then one injector causing your problem. If total return is more then 250 ml/30 secs replace all the injectors. This procedure is for a diesel tech but the test can be performed without a scanner just bring rpm up to 1200 when doing test.

Operate the engine until the coolant temperature is above 180° F.
2. Remove the banjo connector from the fuel drain tube at the rear of the fuel filter housing.
3. Install fuel system test fitting 9012 in place of the banjo connector.
4. Remove the vehicle fuel return line from the engine fuel drain tube.
5. Install a piece of fuel line onto the test fitting and into a fuel container or into the fuel tank.
6. Install one end of a test hose onto the fuel drain tube. Place the other end of the test hose into a graduated cylinder.
7. Start engine and allow to idle for 30 sec. This step allows the flows to stabilize. Gather appropriate measuring device to measure collected return fuel.
8. Using the scan tool, navigate to ECM view -> PCM Cummins -> More Options-> System Tests -> Fuel Pressure override test. Select Start, then press Next.
9. Press the Run button on the screen. As you press the Run button to start the overpressure test, please move the injector return hose from the bucket and insert into the appropriate measuring device. The engine speed will elevate rapidly to 1200 rpm and the rail pressure will increase to 20000 psi (1400 bar).
10. While the test is running, please record the FCA duty cycle % and actual rail pressure record the readings on the Cummins Diesel Diagnostic Worksheet located under e-files, service, Star center in dealerconnect.
11. Measure and Record the amount of fuel collected.
12. If the flow is less than 160 ml/30 secs, the test has successfully passed, and the condition has been fixed
13. If the flow is greater than 250 ml/30 seconds, refer to step 20.
14. If the flow is greater than 160 ml/30 secs after step 11, shut off the engine and remove all 6 high pressure fuel lines. Re-torque the high-pressure connector nut. Inspect for damage, repair/replace as necessary. Reinstall high pressure fuel lines.
15. Start the engine and perform steps 7 through 10.
16. Measure the amount of fuel in the graduated cylinder.
17. If the amount of fuel is greater than 160 ml/30 sec, shut off the engine and remove the #1 high pressure fuel line. Cap the #1 fuel port using tool 9864 for the 6.7L engine and 9011 for 5.9L engine on the fuel rail and repeat steps 7 through 10.
18. Measure the amount of fuel in the graduated cylinder. If the amount is less than 160 ml.30 sec, remove and replace the #1 injector and #1 High pressure connector.
19. If the amount of fuel is not less than 160-ml/30 secs, repeat steps 17-18 for cylinders 2-6.
20. If the amount of fuel is greater than 250 ml/30 secs it is recommended that all 6 injectors be replaced.
21. Install all high-pressure connectors, fuel injectors, and fuel injector supply lines. Repeat steps 1-12 to confirm repair

 

It left me stranded on Thursday evening so I replaced injectors and tubes on Saturday. So far so good. Thanks for the advise ya'll.