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2003 eratic rail pressure, eratic start

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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 10:32 PM
  #31  
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From: Bellingham, WA
my stock lift pump turns 8-9psi idle and 4-5psi normal operating and i can suck it down to 0psi wide open, so just because your light is on doesn't mean the lift pump is not working. seems directly related to cold, are you running fuel additive,is grid heater working?
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:26 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by mj1044
i have just joined this forum. i have been reading this tread. i have been having close problems as yourself. i have a 03 dually 4x4 stock. i lost power as yourself. when i first start up the truck, it runs fine till the temp warms up then i start loseing fuel pressure. i have replaced the lift pump. no help. then i put a light pressure gauge in between the lift pump and the cp3 so i could watch it. this light comes on after the truck warms up. i replaced the fuel rail becuase i was told that it was cheaper to replace all of it rather than just the pop of value( mine had popped) i thought that was my trouble....no luck. still doing the same thing. i put a fuel line from the lift pump to he fuel tack through the in inlet of the tank hope i was having some supply trouble.....no luck still the same. i did this sunday. i put it back to like normmally and left it. monday the air temp warmed up and it ran better going and comeing back from work. tuesday, it ran fine both ways and i ran it hard coming in.air temp was up to around 60. today temp dropped back down to around 35. went back to acting up again. this d**n thing is driving me nuts. i did replleace the fuel filter 3 times since this started back in Dec. no codes too. i am ready to trade it of. this is my 4 th cummins and this is the first trouble i have had. by the way the truck has 156000 miles om it too.


This is the same mileage as mine. Now that I have replaced un-needed parts thanks to a bad dealership diagnosis, popular opinion is pointed at an electrical problem as well. I too, am not as happy with this truck as I was with my 97 rattler.

You are lucky you can drive yours........mine, when it starts, is only good for a mile before it dies
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:27 AM
  #33  
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From: southern Ontario
Originally Posted by no_6_oh_no
You have an 03, there is a TSB for corroded connections on the ECU connectors that will cause all manner of issues. You might want to check into that before pulling all your hair out.

The dealership is telling me this TSB does not exist...........can you tell me how to find it for them?
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 09:51 AM
  #34  
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yes. i am run power service in it. and my grid heater is working. mine does crank ok. i know that the pressure will pull down when i really push the truck and the light dos come own when i did this when it was warm outside, but this am it was coming on runnig 1500 rpm in road gear. this morning it was 30 outside and guess what? run like sh*t again. it is suppode to get up to 46 this afternoon. i will see how it runs going home. If i knew were a different truck was when it warmed up i would have traded it off that day.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 10:12 AM
  #35  
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From the way it sounds I would also have to agree with everyone saying that it's an electrical issue. I would start with the batteries making sure that they're up to snuff. Then the charging system. From there its going to have to be determined what is going on. They'll have to watch the sensor readings to determine which ones are causing the engine to run rough.... (MAP, Crank, Rail, etc sensors) From their it will need to be determined if the sensor is faulty or connector/contacts.

Also check around for any wiring harness that comes in contact with anything hot or moving parts. Then see if there any damage to the harnesses to see if anything is grounding.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 01:14 PM
  #36  
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my batteries are good and its charges right. does anyone know how to check some of these sensor. like the ohms they might be pulling.i am looking to try anything
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 03:52 PM
  #37  
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went to the dealership today to see how my truck was doing. The mechanic was just coming back from a test drive. He told me to drive the truck with him to see if I thought it had the power it should have. To my surprise..........it did.

In the end.......the problem was one of the injector lines on the engine side was not seated correctly.


I had the lines at the engine side loosened (maybe a bit too much) when I was doing the injector test with the blocking nut. I think I will have to accept the responsibility and the dealerships' diagnoses of the IP being bad, and accept my bill as it comes.

I will try it around town for the next few days to make sure everything is as it should be.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #38  
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i wish mine was that simply. i havent mine apart.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 04:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by mj1044
i wish mine was that simply. i havent mine apart.
It is frustrating figuring it out, I know, but you will find the problem. I was lucky......mine is not a daily driver.
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 04:13 PM
  #40  
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i keep thinking mine will show its self but when the weatther warmed up and it ran good???? i dont knw.
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 08:12 AM
  #41  
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going home last night...run soso...this morning...run like crap. it was 28. i did noctice a hic-up once while it was wasrming up this morning.
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:43 PM
  #42  
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still having trouble with this thing!
I thought everything had worked out.......but it is still starting hard. The batteries tested good........but the truck does not want to start unless I hook up the charger to it for about twenty minutes, so the engine can crank very fast. Otherwise, the rail pressure will only go up to about 1500psi.

This truck has been a real PITA.......thanks partially to lack of professional help from the local dealership
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Old Feb 24, 2009 | 10:44 PM
  #43  
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How are you making out with yours mj1044??
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Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:42 AM
  #44  
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just got it back last night from a diesel mechaic. doen all the scans, checked all the flow rates and everything good. lift pump, injector pump and injectors. he found air in the injector return test. he checked the jumper tubes and found the first was a little loose. he then checked them all and all but one was not tight to tourque specs. put them back to the way they are suppose to be and the problem gone. makes since to me . when cold it was not leting air to seep by, as it warmed up it got worse as the meatal expanded. i guess it let just aenough air to sep in to cause all this trouble and to **** me off for a a month or two trying to find this.
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Old Mar 10, 2009 | 07:19 PM
  #45  
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From: southern Ontario
AND THE SAGA CONTINUES!!!

finally took the truck into a diesel shop an hour and a half from my house. (couldn't find anyone - including the dealership- competent around my town)

They were to rebuild my injectors. A few days went by, they called said the truck was done and that four out of six injectors were leaking back. I happily made the trip to pick up the truck and to my surprise..........it started in less than one second! and it was well below freezing outside.

I did notice that there seemed to be a bit of a 'chug' to it while idling. But I was so happy that it started well, I didn't give it too much thought. My friend that drove me there said he saw some blue smoke come out of the exhaust when I took off from the first traffic light.

I drove the truck one hour. The truck sat for four hours. I drove the truck thirty minutes. Truck sat for five minutes. Drove the truck for two minutes and when I took off from a traffic light the truck starting knocking LOUD and blowing so much white smoke that I couldn't even see the back of the truck. It took me about 15seconds to get it off the main street and shut it down. There was even smoke coming out the dipstick tube when I checked the oil.

I called the diesel shop, the owner told me to turn the engine over. I turned it over, it seemed like it wanted to start but perhaps the rail pressure was too low. Then the engine locked up. The truck was towed an hour and a half back to the diesel shop.

I spoke to the mechanic today, he said it looks like a valve on #6 cylinder broke and #6 injector is destroyed.

I have a feeling the shop is going to try to say this is not their fault.
The only problem with the truck when I took it there was that it was hard to start.

I've spent about $5k on this truck in the last few months. I'm not sure if the truck deserves another $5k in engine work. The engine should be the last thing I worry about with this truck IMO

let me know your thoughts

Mike
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