04 turbo
04 turbo
I've got a 04 with the 305 motor I was debating on doin the second gen manifold swap my turbo went out so thought bout putting a stock turbo back on or trying the 04.5 turbo heard they kinda helped that motor a little but not real sure any suggestions not really able to spend big money on a turbo right now
2003-2004 models use the Holset HE341. 2004.5-2007 used the HE351 which is slightly larger. The HE351 is direct bolt on. But will have to plug or add a mechanical wastegate to the HE351.
04 turbo
So if I understand that I could just plug the waste gate or change it is it hard to change the waste gate out do u know does it make it any better by switching to the 04.5 turbo thanks
it is best not to plug the waste gate, if you add more fuel you will 1: over spin and 2: operate outside the efficiency curve. you need to set the waste gate at 32 psi. the solenoid and wastegate is complex to understand, as is the waste gate opens at 20 psi, most leave the solenoid on and cut the hose into, cap the one going to the solenoid and drill and tap the volute and add a boost elbow and connect to the wastegate. you can add spring tension to the existing wastegate . bd makes an adjustable wastegate and they have the spring tension kit. we turn our solenoids into adjustable boost elbows but requires some tools and a torch you may not have. the he351cw is a very good upgrade for your truck pm me for instructions if you want to go the solenoid route






If you don't mind posting on the forum, I am interested in the instructions, as I am planning to the he351 upgrade to my 04 305/555. Might be useful for any others that follow and are interested in doing the swap. Also anything else you might want to share for that swap, as there doesn't seem to be a good step-by-step guide for this very popular swap. ie, what else is needed, downpipe, clamps, intake modifications, etc? I am planning on upgrading my exhaust, installing smarty jr and gauges at the same time, but don't want to hijack this thread. Just VERY interested in what it takes just to do the turbo swap...
I have to ask why the upgrade is necessary? I run a Banks waste gate control on my stock Turbo. It increased my max boost from 22lbs to 30lbs. I installed it in 2004 and it's been working great since. Don't fix what ain't broke, of course it's your dime.
if you use the stock manifold it is a direct bolt on, nothing needed, if you do a second gen manifold you need to clock the turbo, once you separate the cartridge from the housing there is a pin between them about a 1/16 " in diameter it was probably there for perfect alignment to the dodge, it comes out with pliers
. if you look at the solenoid there are three ports on it separated by two o rings the hole in the end is manifold pressure. the center is to the waste gate. the waste gate spring is set to 20 psi. now look at the portion that has the threads. you will see four holes. this leads back to the intake. inside the solenoid there is a cup with a spring that when no voltages is applied it covers the 4 hole port setting the waste gate opening at 20 psi. when the ecm calls for more air it sends a modulated 5 volt signal to the solenoid to increase opening to the required pressure up to a limit of 30 psi. this is for emissions. if you have excessive air you produce NOX the ecm keeps the pressure just barely enough for combustion thus the smoke. remove the three o rings to prevent damaging them and cut the solenoid into about 7/8 inch above the base that mates to the turbo next cut the square part where the wrench goes deeper to make it easier to tighten up. i cut some more of the outer barrel off for looks but you do not have to. Next remove any parts left in the center tube; you will be able to see all the way through the tube. tap the tube with a 1/8 in. npt. braze the tip of the high pressure tip closed and drill a smaller hole in it to limit the amount of air, make a washer out of thin shim stock to cover the 4 ports. next screw a needle valve in where the plug would have gone. take the rubber washer out of the valve and use a piece of copper wire in its place, you do not need a seal, this is only for resistance on the needle. Set the valve to 33 psi waste gate opening, usually takes about three stops in a quarter mile.
. if you look at the solenoid there are three ports on it separated by two o rings the hole in the end is manifold pressure. the center is to the waste gate. the waste gate spring is set to 20 psi. now look at the portion that has the threads. you will see four holes. this leads back to the intake. inside the solenoid there is a cup with a spring that when no voltages is applied it covers the 4 hole port setting the waste gate opening at 20 psi. when the ecm calls for more air it sends a modulated 5 volt signal to the solenoid to increase opening to the required pressure up to a limit of 30 psi. this is for emissions. if you have excessive air you produce NOX the ecm keeps the pressure just barely enough for combustion thus the smoke. remove the three o rings to prevent damaging them and cut the solenoid into about 7/8 inch above the base that mates to the turbo next cut the square part where the wrench goes deeper to make it easier to tighten up. i cut some more of the outer barrel off for looks but you do not have to. Next remove any parts left in the center tube; you will be able to see all the way through the tube. tap the tube with a 1/8 in. npt. braze the tip of the high pressure tip closed and drill a smaller hole in it to limit the amount of air, make a washer out of thin shim stock to cover the 4 ports. next screw a needle valve in where the plug would have gone. take the rubber washer out of the valve and use a piece of copper wire in its place, you do not need a seal, this is only for resistance on the needle. Set the valve to 33 psi waste gate opening, usually takes about three stops in a quarter mile.
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Increasing boost numbers as expressed in lbs doesn't always mean you are getting more power. Take some time to learn how turbos work and you'll see the point.
And of course it is your dime... how much did you spend on that banks wastegate control? I can do the same thing for $1.35.
I've got a 04 with the 305 motor I was debating on doin the second gen manifold swap my turbo went out so thought bout putting a stock turbo back on or trying the 04.5 turbo heard they kinda helped that motor a little but not real sure any suggestions not really able to spend big money on a turbo right now
The 2004.5-2007 HE351 turbo is old technology. It's reliable but has a very small turbine which results in high EGT's.
Unless you drive like a little old lady who never tows or hauls anything, it's not really worth spending money to upgrade to the HE351 turbo.
There is no need to do a 2nd gen exhaust manifold swap with this turbo, unless you are planning twins down the road.
The HE351 is a very good secondary turbo in a twins set-up.
If you plan on keeping your truck, tow regularily, a bolt-on, modern aftermarket turbo, or upgrading to twins is well worth it.
The 2003-04 HE341 turbo is too small for pretty much anything...
I want to change the turbo as an inexpensive way of reducing egt while towing. My truck has 330k miles, most of which have been towing a 12k lb enclosed gooseneck around North America. Reliability and availability of parts to repair is a real concern as the truck stays on the road almost all the time.
A little more power for the hills would be an added bonus (planning on doing a smarty jr, gauges and exhaust also), but main goal of the turbo is lower egt. I'm not looking to spend $5k+ for a twin setup, which seems like overkill for my application. But $1500 to throw a turbo and a few addons seems fair and within my budget...
A little more power for the hills would be an added bonus (planning on doing a smarty jr, gauges and exhaust also), but main goal of the turbo is lower egt. I'm not looking to spend $5k+ for a twin setup, which seems like overkill for my application. But $1500 to throw a turbo and a few addons seems fair and within my budget...
I had an HE351 on my old 2003. It was a very nice, inexpensive upgrade to the stock turbo. Made a noticeable difference in EGT and power without sacrificing spool up time.
I simply plugged the solenoid and it topped out at about 38psi. No other mods are really needed if you want to keep it simple.
I simply plugged the solenoid and it topped out at about 38psi. No other mods are really needed if you want to keep it simple.
a he351cw takeoff will cost you about $350-500 if you find a $50 core you can get a cartridge for $230. the smarty jr will help with egt and fuel. we tow extremely heavy, here is pix of a 45,000 lb cgw and a 39,600 cgw line truck i brought back from north Carolina, i think it was about 4,000 miles round trip.


If you are looking to spend a little more you can get a modified 341 that will flow better than a 351 and no need to worry about the electronic wastegate. I just ordered one myself. It should handle a fuel upgrade down the road too.
"Tow master" 62 65 he341cw $1050+core
https://www.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/Aus...heaterChargers
"Tow master" 62 65 he341cw $1050+core
https://www.facebook.com/?_rdr#!/Aus...heaterChargers
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