Have a 99 ram 2500 with stock suspension besides a leveling kit up front. I have a violent shaking/jerking while braking. Mainly feels like the right front but its felt all over the front end. Any speed, especially from 30-0. I cant drive it due to how sketchy it is. I have 37x12.50R16.5 military tires off of a humvee. I swapped the tires with my 35x12.50R16 dick cepek fun country tires that are brand new and it did not change the shake at all.<br />New track bar up front, rotors just turned to see if that would fix it and it didn't. The trucks alignment is off and the steering wheel is far from being center but the jerking feels rotational as if it was warped rotors but it wasn't. I'm thinking wheel bearings up front might be the problem. Anyone have any opinions?

 

Have a helper see-saw the steering wheel violently and look at all the front end components for play and or deflection.

Do a tape-measure toe-in estimate. Too much toe-in or a bit of toe-out can lead to the problems you describe.

 

I will have to Google how to do the tape measure thing but thank you. I know I need an alignment in a bad way so maybe that will fix it. I need to tighten my steering box first, I have alot off play in there steering wheel. It's very sloppy.

 

About tightening the steering box- that's why I wrote get under the truck while somebody see-saws the steering wheel. If the pitman shaft deflects side to side please do not tighten the overcenter adjuster on the box!

See this video about tape measure alignment

 

Very informative video. I've never seen that before. I have heard of people doing alignments with string and a tape measure. So what you're saying is if, while someone is see sawing the steering wheel, there is any play on the pitman arm shaft don't adjust the steering box. Just replace it.

 

The front end man in the video was innovative with the cardboard in place of the turntables used on a professional alignment machine...However, I would have recommended he jounce the front suspension after lowering the jack to settle the components into a normal driving position...This is done to gain a bit more accuracy in the measurements...I usually worked in a walk-in pit, and did the jounce from below by pulling down on the lower edge of the bumper, then releasing it...That way I didn't take a chance on leaving greasy handprints on the paintwork or chrome upstairs...He also didn't make clear that he was sighting along the visible edges of the front tires until he could see equal amounts of rear tires with the steering wheel centered, although I could tell that was what he was doing...

It was a good instructional video......Ben

 

Nope, I said do not adjust the overcenter- this is the bolt with the locknut visible from above the box.
Also check all the components for play and movement while doing this check- very important!

If the pitman shaft has side to side deflection while steering you need to adjust it's bearing.
Short version- pull pitman arm, remove shaft seal, look if you have an adjustable box (2 holes in a lock ring ). Non-adjustable box has only a snap ring under the seal.
If adjustable, loosen overcenter locknut, remove lock ring, turn preload adjustment nut out 1 turn and back in for 3-5 times, tighten the nut to preload the bearings, just snug does it, temporarily install pitman arm, repeat test, snug again if movement still there. If it feels like it takes effort to tighten it enough, or feels blocked it's time for a rebuild.
If successful tighten overcenter bolt till just snug, back off 1/6th of a turn, tighten locknut. Install pitman shaft locknut, seal, pitman arm. Lift front axle, turn steering wheel without engine running from lock to lock. This needs to go smoothly and with uniform resistance through the whole travel. If not- time for a rebuild.

Non-Adjustable box -time for rebuild or replacement.


If you aren't entirely confident and have experience with stuff like that please be extremely careful, it's not only your life depending on your steering. If unsure, get a new box installed by a pro.

 

Solid front axle needs no jouncing :-) Just thought this vid shows quite clearly how to get within a reasonable amount of toe-in to get to an alignment shop without ruining the tires or bouncing through the gardens left and right of the road.