4x4

I am going to install new front brake rotors this weekend. Anyone know the torque spec on the axle nut? I have also heard that there is a way to seperate the hub from the axle by using a socket and turning the wheel. Can anyone clarify that procedure for me. I was going to use a big gear puller like cattlehauler did but was worried about seperating the bearing. Any other tips to make the job go smoother would be appreciated.

rich

When we replaced the hub on my 1 ton we just took it off and knocked the wheel studs out. then turned it and put it back on, with out the adapter for the dually wheel it is basically the same as your 3/4 ton

4x4

[quote author=Rich-Cowboy link=board=5;threadid=14023;start=0#132046 date=1051323116]
When we replaced the hub on my 1 ton we just took it off
[/quote]

This is the part that I have heard that could be tough. Did your hub come off easily? The instructions that Cattlehauler published on his website shows that he used a large gear puller. I have heard about a technique that uses a socket wedged behind the hub somehow and the steering is turned. The turning action "pushes" the rotor/hub off.

Mr. 45

Is this what you are looking for? Click here<br><br>I just replaced one of my hubs today &gt; Not happy with the price &gt; I didnt have to use the socket trick 8) When i pulled on the rotor it just slide right off The hard part was putting all of the wheel studs back in ;D The torque for the the BIG axle nut is 175 ft-lbs. The one for the 4 bolts that hold's the hub is 125 ft-lbs. Real easy, Just take your time and thing's will be ok 8)

rich

so 45 i take the funny noise was the bearings going out. sorry to hear it if the large dual race was not damaged i think you can take the hub apart and replace the bearings. the one i did on my truck was to torn up to try putting in new bearings when i'm feeling froggy i am going to try and repack the other side.

Mr. 45

Yep, It was the front hub :'( Still have the old one, I think i will tear it apart and see what i can do with it If all goes well i will have a replacement for the right side 8) Then i won't have to shell out he $$$ for another one ;D

4x4

Rich: Thanks for you input and IM

45: That must be the thread that I remembered the socket trick from. Thanks for the torque numbers.

Guys I appreciate your help. Just looking to gather as much info about the job before I disable the truck and hit a sticking point. This site is the best!

gkainz

I'm replacing my hub on a '97 2500 4x4 today - does anyone know what size the axle nut is?

What did you all find for prices on a hub? I found mine at NAPA for $230. Checker quoted $260 and Goodyear said that the dealer told them $485 ... I didn't get a quote from the dealer myself (and you can bet I didn't use Goodyear either!).
Thanks.
Greg

Mr. 45

Greg; The nut size is 1 and 11/16th. It's on there pertty tight. Use a 3/4 inch breaker bar or you will snap a half inch one

drecu

are you guys saying that the hub has to come off to replace the rotor?<br><br>DRecu!

AlpineRAM

Yes the hub has to be removed.





You see that the disk is behind the hub- the studs are presed through the disk , through the hub and then through the wheel. You can not slide the disk over the hub, even with the studs removed.

HTH



AlpineRAM

Mr. 45

Yep DRecu; And it is not fun!!!

gkainz

Thanks for the axle nut size ... and the tip about using a 3/4&quot; drive. However, it was loose enough that I think it could have come off easily with a 1/2&quot; drive breaker bar. So, my first bad thought is &quot;crap!!! the bearing's not bad at all, the axle nut's just loose.&quot; It was tightened to maybe 75 ft.pds, is my guess. But, since I bought the darn hub already and we're already this far, might as well keep going. My next bad discovery is the threads are cheesed on the axle shaft... I'm betting that's why the nut was only as tight as it was... <br>So now I'm wondering how much THIS little discovery is gonna cost?

berner

I did a quick search here and wreckers sell used axles. Check it out. Part Search Good Luck

gkainz

Thanks for the tip on the used parts. I had the option of a used hub/bearing assy as well, but the donor truck had more miles than mine, so I passed. I didn't even think about calling back for the axle... darn it! It was midday Saturday, and the truck had to be operational for Monday morning, so it was to the dealer with axle and Visa in hand.
Final tally at the end of the day:
Hub/bearing assy - $233 Napa
Ceramic brake pads - $83 Napa
Pass. axle shaft - $257 Dealer
U-joint - $126 Dealer - OUCH!!!
Axle nut - $16.60 Dealer - this is getting ridiculous
Labor to put new axle shaft and u-joint on old axle $40 - Dealer's service bay was open on Saturday (handy) and I was there already... and the way the day was going, it just seemed like the &quot;right thing to do&quot;.

Final thoughts on the job was that it wasn't as hard as I thought it was going to be. Using the socket wedged between the backplate bolt and axle tube housing made popping the hub/bearing assy off a piece of cake. However, I still didn't get the lug bolts fully seated thru the hub. I still have about a 1/16&quot; gap between the hub and rotor. I'm still tightening the lugnuts and hope I can close that gap. Comments?

Thanks for the help, guys! Much appreciated!
Greg