Well today I finally was able to look more into why my truck pulls to the right when I brake, both of the front calipers seem to be sticking a little more so on the right. The rims were to hot to touch after driving a little intown. So I cant figure it out? I replaced the right caliper about a month ago. I also noticed a vibration at highways speeds sometimes it starts at 60 sometimes not till 75, What gives? Could it be related to the brakes, I just had my tires balanced a month ago. Please help, PS the pads are getting worn and need replaced sometime within a month or so. Could that cause it, they arent shot just yet though. Thanks

 

I think some rubbing is normal.. but you should be able to jack up a wheel and spin it by hand easily enough.
Aftermarket calipers are pretty cheap I think. Otherwise its easy enough to replace the seals.
Id like to see 4 piston calipers for these things since the stopping power isnt so good.

 

Sometimes the rubber brake hoses collapse internally and do not allow the fluid to release. Works like a check valve. The hoses look fine on the outside. It is supposed to be common on Dodges and my neighbor just had the same problem on his F150.

The only fix is to replace the rubber lines to the calipers.

 

The diagnosis for th ebrake line issue, if there is one, is to tran and compress the caliper with a pry bar, and if it isn't going back in reasonably easily, loosen the bleeder screw while compressing the piston and see if it suddenly moves much freer. If so, the fluid is not able to travel back to the mastercylinder easily, and the brake hose is the number one suspect.
As far as the calipers go, I replaced both calipers on my 99 in 2003 due to the right one hanging up. Fortunately I got the replacements with a lifetime warranty from Autozone because I just had the left one lock up again, and it wore out the inner pad. No clue on my part until the pad backing hit the rotor because there are no wear clips on the inner pads. Kind of curious too, since the new calipers were supposed to be made with superior materials.
Got a new caliper for free, turned the rotors, and bought lifetime warranty pads this time too.
This was a big problem with 80's Fords because they used plastic pistons in the calipers, which couldn't take the heat, warped, and hung up. I don't remember what the factory caliper pistons are made of on these Rams.

I'd love to see dual piston calipers on 94-99 trucks, but the only way I know of to do that is to swap out the entire front axle, at least for a 4wd, to somehting 2000-2002. I have researched this.

Chris

 

Well I replaced my fronts today, when I took the wheels off they were hotter than The outer pads were worn bad, the inner pad against the piston wasnt bad at all. I bought lifetime pads, the calipers were very hard to compress also. When I first took the calipers off I had to release the bleeders to get them off because they were dragging. Quite a bit of fluid came out, so I know its not a caliper piston sticking out. So the rubber brake lines? I guess ill try that.

 

How much rubbing is usual? I get a squeak in the mornings when I first leave from the brake pad dragging on my front driver's side.

I jacked it up, and both wheels will make it about one revolution with a good spin. Does this sound about right or are they dragging more than usual?

 

check out my members gallery.
You'll see some good tips on fixing dragging brakes.

keep a close eye on thse caliper pins/ bolts.
If they are coroded or dirty you have found your problem.
In Fact if they are not shinny like new they will cause the brakes to drag.
Your tires should spin very freely when lifted off the ground.
PM me if you need more brake help .

SFB

 

Hey Bob,

Why would honing the bushing hole help free the brakes up? The rubber bushing going through there and is "solid" meaning its doesn't move that much does it?

Also, seems to me I'm forever cleaning the caliper pins. I grease them up with silicone grease, but they "dry out" within 5-10K miles or so. I do drive alot in the city.

 

EXACTLY what I had to do!!

All new calipers and still dragging, actually slowed down a little going downhill and ate up some fuel economy.

New hoses and the brakes quit dragging and the MPG went back up.


The best way to check for restricted hoses is to park the vehicle and then crack the bleeder screw on the caliper immediately. If you have a spurt of fluid, the hoses are acting like a check valve.

 

You should always replace the rubber bushings.
They get hardened due to heat cycling.
Once they get hard they start to stick.

In regards to the honing.
I noticed there was rust built up inside the bore.
This in turn causes the rubber bushing to "squeeze" the pin tighter in turn causing the calipers to drag and heat up.
Since our 2nd gen calipers are in no way sealed, water and dirt get into and all around our caliper pins and bushings causing everything to rust and get gummed up.
The honing just cleans the rust out.
Every little bit helps.

Take a look at the 3rd gen calipers. You'll notice they are well sealed.
I have a pic in my Gallery here on the DTR.



Thanks
SFB