On the older trucks, 94-99 at least you have to remove the hub/rotor assembly to get the rotors off. Use the socket trick and nothing gets damaged!!

 

socket trick?

 

hmm fill me in too on the socket trick?

 

It is kinda hard to explain, but here goes-You get a fairly large socket, I think I use a 7/8, and place it on the end of the axle tube and turn the wheel until the axle yolk flat hits the socket, you just continue to turn the wheel slowly and it forces the rotor/hub assembly out of the knuckle with no damage. Don't forget the four retainer bolts first. I think infidel has some pics. I could probably get some this weekend if you need them.

 

Mcmopar, almost got it.
You use the same size socket used to remove the four 12 point bolts that hold the unit bearing on. They are on the back of the rotor. Use either a deep socket or a short one with a short extension. Loosen all four bolts, leave the large axle end nut tight but break it loose. While one person holds the socket still on one of the 12 point bolts have another person turn the steering wheel, engine started, aim the socket so it contacts the turn stop.
Turn the steering wheel hard, increase rpms if needed, the bearing will pop loose from the axle, you will hear it.
Built in hydraulic press!
The reason for keeping the large nut tight is that it prevents the bearing from being popped apart which often happens when using a puller.

 

Infidel,

I used a socket against the axle tube, that worked for me?

 

Thanks guys for the great info..... I had to do my U-Joint on the short side yesterday and came to the site and found out some great tricks again and it saved me time. I am not sure how you all put the shaft and rotor back on but I put the backing plates on first then the rotor. I had to adjust the bearing a bit to get the bolts to line up, once I got them lined up, it was great. Again THANKS EVERYONE for the info

 

So it sounds like a rotor job on the Gen1's is more difficult than the Gen2s??

 

Be careful forcing fluid back into the brake master, any crud in the system can be forced back too, causing havoc with the master cylinder. I always crack the bleeder as I am compressing the piston and close it just before I stop compressing to reduce the possibility of this happening.
The used pad makes a great rest for the c clamp or a piston compressor. It is also a good idea to lube the sliders with die-electric grease to keep them from sticking and eating the rotors. JB

 

So, is Infidel's method for Gen 1 or Gen 2? I'm getting ready to do ball joints and want to know if I have to remove all of these items?

 

this works on the second gen for sure , i don't know about first gen and yes you have to remove these items to do ball joints

 

I hear some are using a c-clamp to press the pistons back in...I used to mess with a c-clamp also and always had trouble with the pistons cocking and sticking. My neighbor showed me how he has always done it with no trouble at all...just put the old pads back in and use 2 big screwdrivers at the same time to pry against the pads. It sounds easy and it is!

 

A little word of advice about replacing the rotors on the 2nd gen 4x4s. Use a PRESS to do the studs (at least to put them back in). I bought 2 new Napa rotors and did the job myself. The studs popped right out easily with a hammer with no damage. But when I went to reinstall them, they were extremely difficult to get back in. I'm talking spending over an hour on each rotor with a mini sledge and a punch driving them back in until the rotors were finally secure. The studs went most of the way without a problem, but the last few thousands of an inch took all the effort. I'm talking doing about 10 VERY hard hits on a stud, rotating the rotor to the next stud for another 10 hits, etc. for about 30-40 revolutions of the rotor. There was absolutely no way the lug nuts were going to work in my case. Like I said, USE A PRESS. If I knew anyone in town with a press, or a shop who would have done it without me having the whole truck towed into them, I would have used one.

Jim

 

I've never had any trouble sucking the studs down tight with a pile of washers on the stud, a lug nut and a 300 ft/lb air wrench.

 

put the studs in the freezer for a couple hours and they should darn near drop right in.