darn fuel module connections
 

hello all... great site.. i have been lurking around in the forum archives awhile to educate myself on these great cummins powered trucks.. i finally got a used "96 CTD a few weeks back, and i am hooked..
earlier today i started to drop the tank to repair the fuel sending unit of the fuel module. and you guys are right about the dealers trying to sell you the whole expensive unit.. i might need to buy whole fuel module because the two curved metal fuel tubes are rusted pretty bad..
now for the real problem.. how do you uncouple the black plastic fuel connectors?? i tried and tried, but there still connected.. the tank is drained, the straps are removed, and the tank is slightly lowered on the atv jack.. the only thing stopping me is those darn connectors.. the electrical connector is off too.. [duhhh] thanks.......

you can buy a reconditioned unit at dealer. PM me for part #. 120$

just cut em, you are going to want to replace the fuel lines right to the pump. one is 5/16" one is 3/8". about 13' of each DIESEL RATED MARINE line.

They really are a "Hillary"[laugh] to get off. If you squeeze them with pliers, and push in then pull out, they should come off. There is actually a tool for them.

How hard you think it would be to hack out the steel fittings and replace them with 1/2" feed and 3/8" return lines with push lock fittings?

I wouldn't even try. They are a one piece fitting, about 1-1/2" diameter, with two lines coming out. I tried finding a fitting, or something I could make work, with no luck. My sending unit was also bad, so I just replaced the whole works with the Recon unit from the dealer, for about $125.
If the sending unit is OK, you can get the Vulcan draw straw, which looks like a very nice piece, and use that.

well, i messed with those connectors long enough.. still cant get them off, not even one.. i think i might cut the plastic fuel lines in the middle and see if i can splice them back together with a double barb fitting. those buggers are really a pain and i am gettin tired fiddling with them..

well i cut the plastic lines, and got the tank dropped.. still had to cut em off with the dremel on the bench.. the steel lines coming out of the module are really rusted.. i thing i will just buy a reconditioned unit from the dealer.. also the brake line is rusted bad, might as well as replace it while the tanks is dropped.. the steel fuel lines dont look much better. any tips on replacing those??

go all the way from you're reconditioned module to the pump. with diesel rated line. avoid trouble later. 13' of 3/8 and 13' of 5/16" buy 15' of each to be sure. better off 3' to much than 3" short.[laugh]


when you do that brake line, the bleeders will probably be so frozen you will have to replace them (wheel cylinders) infidel has the part # for an oversized cylinder that is cheaper and more effective sharing the job of stopping the truck.

yeah thats what I was wondering. So the vulcan draw straw does work on the old 12v's? Im calling them first thing monday for that and a bunch of fuel hose. I was going to go with aluminum tubing, but the hose isnt that bad.

Measure first, length all depends on what kind of cab you have.

thanks all... ordered the reman module, and they will have it tomorrow.. the other dealer said that they didnt mess with the reman units, only $300+ new ones.. had lots of trouble finding a marine dealer that carries trident marine grade fuel line. so now i am off to the local heavy duty truck shop to price some air brake hose in 3/8 and 5/16 to use instead of the marine stuff..

careful the diesel might eat that. west marine has what they call USCG A1 fuel line.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...allpartial/0/0

thanks timmy22.. that air line is measured by O.D. took a sample of 1/2" OD and 3/8" OD and the 1/2" is a tad loose, the 3/8" is way to small.. so there goes that method. the new module is supposed to have hard plastic lines instead of steel ones.. i want to use just hose clamps on the module, and the same on the engine end. i didnt really peek down in the engine side of the fuel lines yet, but i guess the feed line goes to the filter. are those banjo bolts? can i replace those with brass threaded to barb fittings?

If you can find metric bolt size barb fittings then yes.
Don't think you'll find any though.
On your '96 the place to start with the engine end of the hook up is to the top rear driver's side of the engine for the feed line and just forward and behind the fuel filter for the return.

On the feed line at the rear of the engine a steel line goes down to the fuel heater, which feeds the lift pump, which feeds the filter.

I personally wouldn't use air brake hose, get USCG rated diesel hose.