I've got a truck thats only peeling on the top of the door. The hood and roof have clearcoat thats going bad.

I was wondering can you just tackle each section a little at a time? What I mean is, I would like to do the roof first, see how it comes out, then maybe a month or two later when I have time, pull off the hood, refinish/paint it, and so on for the tops of the fenders etc... Is this possible? And with the description of what

Even though my truck is not my daily driver, I just don't see myself taking a month or two to tear it all apart, paint, then put it back together (like JLENT has done, but I wish I had the time to do it like that). This is especially since I use the truck for camping during the warm months when I could paint, but I really like camping and so does the family so cancelling that would make us all go crazy. If I had the money, of coarse, I would have someone do it. I'm not looking for showroom, just nice enough that with a nice polish/wax and 10ft it would like real shiney... and most importantly keeps the rust out.

I was debating on either going the Aerosol spray route from one of the paint sites, or cheaper HVLP gun. I've got a 30gal oil cooled belt driven compressor rates around 6.5cfm @ 90psi. I'm thinking an air DA would be out, but what about HVLP? Which would be recommended for doing small sections at a time?

Any comments?

Joel

 

What color is the truck? If its not a metallic color, you can panel paint the entire truck. If its metallic, you will need to blend the door into the surrounding panels. Blending is done like this....each coat that you put on after full coverage has been acheived will be reduced by 25% each time & each coat will be extended by 6" overlap from repair area. I hope you understand this.

 

PQE is the color code. It's a Aquaish or green color. I wasn't really looking for a truck in this color, but with a good polish/wax I love how the truck looks and wish not to change the color.

Not sure if this is metallic or not, but I think it is.. I didn't think you did multiple coats. I'm pretty painting stupid right now, never done it and no one I know has done it. I've read up a little over the years, but nothing that gave me the ah-hah! I'm looking for.

I would like to get more info on this 25% thing, but I think I would be wasting your time until I could get more familiar with how many coats are needed and how you tell, then perhaps I would understand more on this 25% thinned out, 6" overlap. I'm not even sure how to tell how much paint, primer etc to purchase.

Do you have some good places, books/sites/whatever that would get me going in the right direction?

Here is a couple pics...

 

www.autobodystore.com has all of the info you need. If you see a post by a guy named Len, click on his signature. There is a link to "Painting 101 DVD". I promise, best money you will spend on a "How to" video. I talked to a few guys who bought it & they say that it teaches you everything you need to know about blending.

 

Better yet, here is a link to the video. The guy knows his stuff.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...gory_Code=4VDO

 

Just looking over the tools at that site I'm looking at a lack of air volume from my compressor (which is pretty new) and about $500-$700 in tools. Its making me question if I would be saving money doing it myself.

I'll poke around on this site you gave and see what I can learn.

Thanks!

Joel

 

Too bad you don't live closer. I'd help you out.

 

Yeah, PA is a bit far but thanks for the friendly offer! I have a ton of tools for mechanics and none for painting. I would hate to even start up a collection of mechanics tools that I have now... the cost would be overwhelming.

Just so I have this straight, I good HVLP would be needed ($300+), a good sander ($200 or so), a breather ($200 or so) and an air compressor (ighad! I just bought the one I have).

Do you know of an HVLP that would run okay on a 30gal 2 cylinder 5.3cfm@90, 6.4@40? Or would I be barking up the wrong tree with this one?

Joel

 

Another question:

what about aerosol touchup for just the effected areas only like from these guys: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/ Then I could at least not pay for another compressor (or rental) or a spray gun.

I would be all over it if my gut wasn't telling me that it's wasting money.

Joel

 

You don't need a $200. sander, just get yourself a "Durablock" & sand by hand. You only need a $30. mask with refillable air cartridges. I painted a car one time using a gun that I paid $80 for. It laid the clear on just as nice as my $400 gun. I would order a Devillbiss Finishline gun. Thats what I'm using on my truck & I hardly had to buff it at all. It is around $100. & Len has them on stock. It really lays the clear down nicely for a cheap gun.

 

Definately not.

 

That doesn't sound too bad. I don't think I want to repaint the entire truck and most of the paint appears good, I just want to repaint the bad panels. Even if I do eventually paint the entire truck, going panel by panel will break the work down so it's not going to be so bad.

The Devillbiss finishline was it like this one for $146 : http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=1D

A few questions too if you don't mind:

Would I need another gun for just primer as I see they have primer guns as well as guns that will shoot both a top coat and a "light primer"? What is a light primer?

Also, for just panel by panel, do you think my current compressor will be a problem, can I take breaks to wait for the air?

Would the finish line 3 be good for clears as well as base and primer?

Which respirator did you use?

I've been trying to read some of the stuff over at the other site, I can tell with my small brain it's going to take awhile for me to understand some of what they are saying. Not looking to paint it today anyway, but maybe in a few months.

Thanks again!

 

Yep, thats the gun I'm using. It lays it down very nice.

1. A light primer is a sealer or thinned down primer, not a primer surfacer. You can buy a $40. primer gun & you'll be fine.
2. Your compressor will be fine for the job you are doing. I would recommend getting a air/water seperator mounted to it though.
3. The gun comes with 2 fluid tips a 1.3 tip for basecoat, a 1.4 tip for clear. Set at 28psi & adjust your fluid nozzle to max, your pattern to half pattern. It lays on beutiful.
4. I use a 3m dual cartridge respirator & refills changed once every 3 sessions.

 

Do you use that gun for "complete" paint jobs? I would like to get away from using my pressure pot (for easier clean up) and have a similar gun to that one but find there's not enough volume for doing anything big. It's great for repairs like fenders and doors though.

 

Yep. I set pressure to 28psi & it sprays nice texture. Another good chioce that is cheap would be "Astro HVLP". I had the all green Astro gun, it sprayed clear very nice, never had to buff one job with that gun. I've seen them sell on ebay for $80.