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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 11:08 AM
  #16  
infidel's Avatar
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From: Montana
if you got 200K out of your rears, then they cant be working or you never stop, or do one heck of alot of hi-way driving (no insults intended)
None taken.
Considering it's 15 miles to the closest stop sign guess you could say I don't stop a lot.
A lot of it's driving style also, antisipating ahead and guiding to a stop helps.
I've driven with people who drive faster than the traffic flow, come up on the next guy's tail and brake constantly. Don't see how their brakes last even 10k.
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Old Dec 11, 2008 | 03:35 PM
  #17  
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From: Texas
pump

Originally Posted by infidel
Jim, I think the hydro-boost truck power steering pumps have extra pressure and return ports for the brakes.
You're going to have to improvise in a tight space, better take a good look first.
I like to do the research first. I will keep doing the searches to find all of the need info. Bill and every one else thanks. Jim
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 01:50 PM
  #18  
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`replace the vacum booster with a hydro booster and you will have good brakes you can even use your same master cyl. been there done that
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 10:00 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by infidel
Save your money, it won't help.
Upgrade the rear cylinders to part number 37337 at any auto parts for under $15 each. A qt of brake fluid and an hour of your time and I guarantee you love the way it stops. It is a direct no hassle swap.

Also adjust your rears manually at least every 5k, the self adjusters are notorious for not working.

Read more about the cylinder upgrade here https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=46618
I was just looking at NAPAs web site and the chevy wheel cylinder and the stock wheel cylinder list two different line thread diameters. anyone know if this still works?

Wheel Cylinder Line Thread Size : (2) M10 - 1 (Chevy)
Wheel Cylinder Line Thread Size : 3/8" - 24 (Dodge)

I'll be visiting Napa later today...
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #20  
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From: Nova Scotia , Canada
I know if his abs rear has a problem he will have shitty brakes btdt.I had to replace some wire for the rear abs and then got my brakes back.I just installed Maxbrake and when I did the connection at the brake res, I got some air out of the front line.After installing the Maxbrake we bleed everything and I now have great brakes . Abs has to work for good brake on my 95 truck.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 10:52 PM
  #21  
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When you hold your foot on the pedal and it drops slow does the brake light on the dash light and the ABS light come on? If so the ABS valve below the master cyl is bad. It will cause the pedal drop and poor brakes.
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 03:16 AM
  #22  
Don T's Avatar
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From: Nova Scotia , Canada
Originally Posted by dguru
When you hold your foot on the pedal and it drops slow does the brake light on the dash light and the ABS light come on? If so the ABS valve below the master cyl is bad. It will cause the pedal drop and poor brakes.
When I had a bad ABS wire to the rear end I had all the problems of not good brakes and a sinking brake pedal.When the cable was replaced I did not have the same problems.I did find some air in the brake line when I installed my Maxbrake .I do think the air came from the ABS unit. Now that the air is remove I have the best breaks I ever had on the truck. my .02 Don T
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Old Apr 15, 2011 | 04:50 PM
  #23  
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From: lyman, utah
Originally Posted by infidel
Well it can be done.
still have the stock drums and shoes with over 200k on each truck.
lots of go but not much stop
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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 10:12 PM
  #24  
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From: Florence, AL
Normally if a pedal slowly sinks to the floor the fluid is bypassing in side the M/C. If the pedal is soft there is air in the line. I check my rears about once a year and pull a 10K 5th wheel with no problem. Rule of thumb-- Tighten the brake until the wheel will not move with one hand and back off 5 clicks then check the drag after awhile you will know withhout doing it that way.
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