What to use/replace? Fluid/parts
Well it's about time my truck receives it's 100,000 TLC. I just turned over 108K. Mama has given me the go ahead to spend a little money on the ole' girl. I ordered her brand new in middle of '01 and it's time to do a complete once over. I have taken good care of the truck minus a couple of things.
I've never changed the axle fluids, t-case fluid, ps pump fluid, or coolant. (I know, shame on me) I think it's about time I do so. Engine, trans oils have been changed reguarly. What I'm looking for are a few ideas as to what YOU would use fluid wise if this were your truck. I've always used Delo 400, and Mopar ATF+4, had great luck with them.
I'm also looking to do some front end work. During it's down time, it's going to get 35's, leveling kit, Bilstein 5100's on the way, and I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the Thuren 2nd gen adjustable track bar. What else should I look for, possibly replace?
I'm just looking for ideas and opinions.
I already have the DSS installed. So far, ball joints seem to be in good shape.
Side note: If memory serves me correctly when I go get the truck aligned I want to have the shop adjust camber to approximently 4 degrees? Is this correct?
I've never changed the axle fluids, t-case fluid, ps pump fluid, or coolant. (I know, shame on me) I think it's about time I do so. Engine, trans oils have been changed reguarly. What I'm looking for are a few ideas as to what YOU would use fluid wise if this were your truck. I've always used Delo 400, and Mopar ATF+4, had great luck with them.
I'm also looking to do some front end work. During it's down time, it's going to get 35's, leveling kit, Bilstein 5100's on the way, and I'm pretty sure I'm going to get the Thuren 2nd gen adjustable track bar. What else should I look for, possibly replace?
I'm just looking for ideas and opinions. I already have the DSS installed. So far, ball joints seem to be in good shape.
Side note: If memory serves me correctly when I go get the truck aligned I want to have the shop adjust camber to approximently 4 degrees? Is this correct?
Don't forget fuel filter! Wix is a good band. That can be devastating if forgotten about! Also valve adjustment would be a good idea. If you have greasable u joints, tie rods, ball joints, and muffler bearings i would give them a shot while your under.

A valve adjustment sounds good. I'll put that on the list.




What your truck doesn't have muffler bearings? You may want to take that into the dealer right away. Or you could buy a left handed crescent wrench, it's about the only way to turn those bolts! The reason i said wix filters is that they are more readily accessible at part stores and still suitable for the task. Glad to hear you use fleetguard. Oh and you might think about some gauges. Fill out your signature and let us know what your driving.
Valve Lash adjustment
At only 108,000, unless you have some time to kill, I wouldn't bother. DO spend the money (Geno's has them for around $85.00) on the Factory service manual. The FIRST valve lash check/adjustment interval is 150,000 miles. I did mine a couple weeks ago, one valve pair (#2 intake) was .002 out of spec., on the loose (safe) side. A hint: I like to be prepared, so I bought a new valve cover gasket (around $50.00 at Cummins) before starting the job. The original turned out to be just fine, and the only reason I installed the new one was so it wouldn't be cluttering up my garage forever. Two things are slightly difficult about the job. 1) Wiggling the valve cover out. and 2) Reaching the rear valves. It's a LONG motor!
BTW, if you've ever set valves on a motorcycle, you're going to be blown away by the HUGE tolerances for the truck. Very quick and simple.
BTW, if you've ever set valves on a motorcycle, you're going to be blown away by the HUGE tolerances for the truck. Very quick and simple.
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All the fluids as you indicated plus brake fluid. Don't push junk fluid back through ABS and master cylinder.
Check body seams for starting of rust. Center bottom of doors is a likely area to inspect. May have to pull door panels for access. Wheel openings, under bed and cab for rust. Look at cooler lines for rubbing damage. Radiator for bug build up and oil from breather. Did I mention change brake fluid. Always good to add a quart of compression to oil for bulding back to normal.
Check body seams for starting of rust. Center bottom of doors is a likely area to inspect. May have to pull door panels for access. Wheel openings, under bed and cab for rust. Look at cooler lines for rubbing damage. Radiator for bug build up and oil from breather. Did I mention change brake fluid. Always good to add a quart of compression to oil for bulding back to normal.
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