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Vacuum pump leak .... Fixed

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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 10:16 PM
  #16  
jrs_dodge_diesel's Avatar
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From: League City, TX
Originally Posted by Marks99
Thanks.
Would be cool to see a full how to, and any tips on getting to toughs hard to get bolts in/out, and torqued down ….
Two week-ends ago, I replaced my PS pump, thought I’d be smart and just pull the pump Hours later, after about 20 ins and outs I finally got that dang coupling to line up … I’ll never do that again.
I am awfully suprised you didn't dislodge the shaft seal in the process.
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Old Oct 26, 2006 | 11:09 PM
  #17  
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by jrs_dodge_diesel
I am awfully suprised you didn't dislodge the shaft seal in the process.
I was really, really careful, I knew that seal would be trouble ... no leaks so far ... lucky I'm sure
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 01:12 AM
  #18  
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From: League City, TX
You are lucky. The oil feed line for the vac pump is 2 inches from the seal. If the seal is dislodged you will notice. The leak I had was approx 3-4 quarts per hour. If yours hasn't leaked by now, I'd say yours is safe.
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Old Oct 27, 2006 | 03:02 AM
  #19  
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by jrs_dodge_diesel
You are lucky. The oil feed line for the vac pump is 2 inches from the seal. If the seal is dislodged you will notice. The leak I had was approx 3-4 quarts per hour. If yours hasn't leaked by now, I'd say yours is safe.
Lol - Thanks ... I knew that seal was important ....
My 'new' reman pump is starting to make noise may have to do this again ....
Would be cool to see a full 'how-to' from you on pulling this asam'y, something I think is missing from this site ... a 'How-to' board with pictures and all.

Thanks,
Mark

Lol - I'm new here - guess you can't even type a.s.s.mbly lol
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 12:17 AM
  #20  
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Did this seal a couple weeks back. Simplest thing once I got the bolts all figured out. Did it on a table in my driveway in about 3 hours. I didn't take the ps pump out. Was a little harder, but not as messy either.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 08:48 AM
  #21  
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From: Scotts Valley, CA
Right On Guys! Thanks for the posts and the motivation to tackle this issue myself. As you know, the dealers want $$$$$ to replace the vacuum pump and of course they want to replace the power steering pump at the same time.

I have had a rebuilt one on order for 4-5 months and A1 Cardone is not getting back enough cores to replace the demand. Now....I contacted Mr. Gould got my kit and DVD and did the job myself in 4 hours and YEAH.... No more oil leak!!!

I have been dealing with this for about a year and 1 post read, 4 hours of wrenching and I'm outta here.

Thanks Again.............
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Old May 8, 2007 | 10:22 PM
  #22  
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From: South FL
JRS great write up.

I need to do this soon. It makes a mess out of my drive way and I think it leaks ps fluid also there.

Can u send me your awesome info to my email with pics on the which bolts to do. and the cummins part number or #??

Thks T
PM email address!
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Old May 8, 2007 | 10:31 PM
  #23  
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Glad yall brought this up cause I'm getting ready to replace my power steering pump and figured while I'm in there I might as well do the vaccum pump.
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Old May 8, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #24  
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From: Sundre, Alberta
If you go to your friendly Mopar dealer, the part number for the kit is 05140342AA. It comes in a Genuine Cummins bag.

I paid $74 cdn for it and then immediately went down to my local jobber and he sourced all the pieces right from his stock for $9 with the exception of the Vacuum pump to Timing case gasket.

I'll have to dig up the o-ring sizes, but they are very common and readily available and the seal is a stocking part number also.

If you go to your dealer, you will probably get the "not a current" part number crap because they want to sell you a new pump.

Hope it helps

Jeff
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Old May 8, 2007 | 11:13 PM
  #25  
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From: South FL
Originally Posted by johnh
commins part number:kit,seal 4089742
Does this cummins part bag bring the:
The seal with a double lipped vitton rubber seal so it doesnt sit on the same groove that it will have?
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Old May 9, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
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From: redford michigan
I just did the repair using fixinrams kit and I couldnt be happier. His dvd was very informative and the tools he sends with it worked perfectly and he sent 2 seal kits. cant beat it. Highly reccomend it.
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Old May 9, 2007 | 10:01 PM
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From: South FL
How much and where to get it? also does it bring a double groove seal instead of the factory single lipped vitton seal??
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Old May 9, 2007 | 11:29 PM
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From: redford michigan
Sorry silverram, hereis the link to fixinrams.com

http://www.fixinrams.com/id18.html

that should be the page to the info on vacume pump seal kits. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
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Old May 14, 2007 | 12:13 AM
  #29  
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From: Edmonton Alberta
I'm going to add to this post because it helped me do my vacuum pump seal... I pulled the PS pump the first time and it was not too difficult but pulling it as an assembly was much faster and easier, Things I found that helped
1. pulled upper intake off(4 bolts plus one for the dipstick tube)
2. pull return lines off at the power steering pump(the ones with the pesky clamps) leave the high pressure line hooked up at the PS pump, unhook the high pressure line up near the Master cylinder, because there is NO room down there to swing a wrench, and if you do manage you likely will round off the nut. the line stays hooked to the pump and gives ya a little extra to hold on to while you pull the raskel outta there.
3. unhooking the oil feed line requires 2 wrenches (11mm &14mm) because as I tried to remove the line the whole fitting tried to unscrew from the pump body. use the 11mm to hold the fitting while loosening the 14mm nut on the line.
4. I unhooked the 2 bolts holding the V pump from the front timing cover, oil feed line and the outter lower powersteering bolts BEFORE I unhooked the PS lines that way I did not get a bath in oil

As a side bar when you refill the PS resivor jack up the front of the truck, top up the PS fluid, crank the wheel lock to lock (eng off) a couple of times, then leave the steering wheel to the left and you will see the fluid drain down. top up again and repeat if necessary. IF you run the engine before cranking the the wheel back and forth the fluid will arreiate (spelling??) and it will take awhile to remove the air, and it will groan/whine like a Edit
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Old May 14, 2007 | 12:43 AM
  #30  
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From: lyman, utah
Originally Posted by SilverRam3500
How much and where to get it? also does it bring a double groove seal instead of the factory single lipped vitton seal??
yes it has the double lip
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