When pulling the rear rotors for replacement, can you just pull the axles, or do you have to pull the differential cover for some reason? Also, is the axle gasket reusable, or do you need new ones each time you pull the axle? I assume the diff cover has no gasket and you use RTV, correct? Tks!

 

There is no need ro remove the diff cover, just the axle shaft/bolts, and the spindle nut. I have reused my outer axle seals 2x now with no problems. You may wanna replace the wheel seals however when you have it apart...

BTW RTV is fine for the diff cover...

 

unless I missed something (dont have rear discs on my truck) there is no need to pull any axels to remove the rotors, they just slip on like the front rotors do.

I've reused my axel gaskets more times than I can count, and if they did leak I'd just smear a little RTV on them.

rear diff cover is OK to use RTV, I've found the best RTV is permatex "the Right Stuff" use it once and you will see why its good

 

It is good because its THE RIGHT STUFF....

And that is all anyone needs to know. I use it all the time, but especially on those nasty spots where you definitely don't want a leak. Like a PTO output housing on a bottom mount application, or a rear diff to housing seal on a highway truck, or your fingers to a shop towel, or your glasses to the side of your nose.... the list goes on.

It is expensive, but worth it. And the rotor/drum assembly slips on over the hub. It isn't tough to do. Even when pulling axles on a floater, no need to remove the diff cover, just pop the axles, and pull the bearing adjuster nuts.

While you have the rotors off, you can look at your park brake shoes. if they are still good, and you have too much time on your hands, adjust the diameter of the shoes to .030" less than the ID of the drum, and put them back together, your park brake will work like never before.

Have more fun than should legally be allowed.

 

On the 01.5-02 3500's you DO need to remove the shaft to unbolt the rotor from the rear. On the 3/4 tons you don't. I didn't replace any seals and used RTV sealant on my rear dif. No problems 5000 miles later.

 

good catch, I was assuming 2500 truck!!

 

Thanks all for the info. I'll be pulling the rotors on Wednesday and changing the EBrake shoes in the process.

 

As an aside, have we decided whether it's possible to do the big brake upgrade on the rear brakes as well as the front? If so, that's a cheap upgrade if you're going to replace the rotors anyway....

 

From the research that I have done from the Raybestos web site, the rotors are slightly larger. I am quite certain that if you do all the same stuff you do on the front, It will work like a charm. I am considering swapping rears to a disc brake axle and then do the upgrade a little later. Anyone have any idea what I might be up against in rear axle swap? I see a load level switch controlling brake pressure and I don't believe these exist on disc brake trucks?

 

The rear disk brake trucks have no combination valve or proportioning valve. I believe the ABS system took care of that since the rear disk models have 4WABS (front left, front right, and rear combo). I don't know what switching to rear disks would do to the combination valve setup but would imagine it wouldn't know the difference....

 

I put a 02 dana 80 with disc brakes on my truck about 2 years ago with nothing but a great outcome. I have done nothing else to the brake system & it stops so much better & the best is that the braking feels the same every time & the discs do not have to be adjusted all the time. The only thing I needed to do was shorten the drive shaft & get bigger ubolts & plate. I also zip tied the bed level arm up to allow more flow to the rear.