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noise right front wheel

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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 03:52 AM
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WHISTLINTURBO's Avatar
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noise right front wheel

Hey folks, I was changing my brakes and decided to see if I could figure out what was making the noise up front when turning to the right at high speeds. I found I could pull the right front wheel in and out just a little. My truck is an early 2001. What is wrong, and is it easy to fix?
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:40 AM
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From: Algoa, Texas
Sounds like wheel bearings.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:48 AM
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Wheel bearing/hub. Shop around, they aren't the cheapest part to replace.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 08:16 AM
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From: Cape Coral, FL
Check out RockAuto.com I got one from them and will replace the other one soon. About $260 as opposed to over $380 and local shops and $600 for my mechanic to order. (Timken HA590203)Tried AutoPartsWarehouse and they are worthless. No one knows anything and the computer is in charge of any support (read: no support or knowledge of anything). People at RockAuto were always helpful (even after changing my order numerous times) and they got me my bearing most rickey-tick. I'm going to do my ball joints at the same time. Mid-May or so....
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:54 PM
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the whole axle moves in and out i believe. also it slowly leaks front axle grease out that side.
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 07:06 AM
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Same thing: Front Wheel Bearing. The axles are semi-floating which means that the hub supports the wheel and axle and keeps it attached. When the hub dies the axle starts to move out and the whole wheel assembly tries to depart said vehicle. The only thing holding the wheel to the truck is the disc brake assembly. With the axle leaking fluid you will probably need new axle seals. I know this bearing stuff from personal experience. Get it fixed soon or you will have a really big problem. Our trucks aren't very good three wheelers....
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 04:03 AM
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ok, i guess i better get on this then. i was hoping that wasnt the problem because i've heard they are a pain to do. I don't know what to do. can someone tell me how to do this? i have plenty of tools and aint afraid of fixin anything. I build diesels for locomotives and ships. I've rebuilt a diesel for an old frd and even painted the bottom half of my dodge. i'd consider myself above average back yard mechanic.
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Old Apr 20, 2009 | 06:57 PM
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Get the right tools and research wheel bearing replacement. Check here:
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/balljoint.php
Also consider replacing the ball joints and universal joints at the same time. The wheel bearing has to come off to replace these items and it is a PITA so a good time to accomplish everything. Wheel bearings are $60 apiece, wheel bearing $260 and U-joints are about $15, but I don't have part numbers for the joints....
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 03:46 AM
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thanks sheriffav8r. I notice that is a half ton 97 he did. I figure it won't be much different for my 2001 2500 ton.
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Sounds like the wheel bearing like wat everybody else has said. I did find that if u order the bearing straight from the company u'll actually save close to 75 bucks, rather than going to ur local auto parts store
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:30 PM
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Yeah, it's an earlier model but the basics are the same. Seriously, check out RockAuto. I just ordered my ball joints (both wheels), the right wheel bearing, and 2 ujoints yesterday and they will be delivered on Friday. Good service and nice people to work with. Do a google search for coupon codes for them and you can get an extra 10% off your order. All items above (TIMKEN HA590203, MOOG K7397 (2), MOOG K7394 (2), PRECISION 354) shipped to me for a touch over $500. Seems expensive until you check the prices at local shops....
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Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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While ur at it, check the rest of your suspension out. If the ball joints are even slightly worn out, replace em now. You will not wanna fight with that hub again. They are an absolute PITA to get off....not to scare ya about the job or anything. Like someone else mentioned, do a search about it. The best way I found was to undo the 4 bolts holding it a little bit, and use a 1/2" extension up against the frame, and use the power steering to push the bolts. Do each one a little at a time so ya don't gall out the hole. Eventually, it'll pop off. I wouldn't use a good extension though...i bent one of mine pretty good. Lucky for me, Snap-On replaced it w/o any questions.
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Old Apr 22, 2009 | 03:44 AM
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My ball joints all seem fine. But i could use a couple new dust shields. Also, what about the axle seal. Where can I get it? How hard to replace it without ruinin it. And if I do change the ball joints, do those ones from rock auto have zerks grease fittins on them?
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