Thank you very much. I will implement this plan ASAP and get back to you guys with everything we find out. Also our snap on computer that plugs into the OBDII has been out and we just got it back so I will get codes soon too. Thanks for all the help guys

 

You don't need a computer to check the codes, see my post #2 on how to read the codes if any.

 

Damm must have missed that. Sorry I've got threads started up on 3 different forums and must have overlooked. Thank you for the help

 

Finally had a chance to get the codes. Let me know what ya'll think?

P0236 MAP Sensor Too high too long

P0562 Charging System volts to low

P1698 No Bus MSG Received from PCM

P0215 Inj Pump Control Circuit

P1689 No Com Between ECM & Inj Pump

 

Well the 215 is the death code for the pump but what I would do before anything else is write down the codes then clear them using the scanner. Some of those codes could have been set just from things being done to the vehicle. If they come back then you have to address them. Then disconnect the batteries for about an hour. I even turn on the light switch at the same time to make sure the keep alive memory is gone. Turn off lights if you had them on, Then hook up the batteries and try to get the pump running and get things bled out. Did you ever get the pump going? Bypass it?

Rick

 

I agree as there is no P0216 code, list them clear them and see what comes back. Some of the codes are power/electrical related and could have thrown the others. Remember about "bumping" the starter to get the LP pump to run for 25 seconds to help with bleeding.

 

Now that Busboy mentioned the 216 code I realized I had said the 215 code was the pump. The problem is that I do not believe there is a 215 code. No matter, write them down and do as I mentioned above.

Rick

 

From experience I had code PO1689 and PO216 from a bad edge ez. Removed the edge and all is good 3-4 maybe 5 yrs later now. Charging code makes me suspicious of bad battery or alternator or poor chassis grounds.

 

I will reset the codes and retest at some point today and report back to you guys with the results

 

you are really going about this the hard way, loosen the banjo bolt on the side of the injection pump (fuel feed/inlet port) 18MM wrench i belive

bump (engage) the starter for a 1/4 second just until the starter hits the flywheel, let up on key, leave the key on. do you have fuel coming out of the loose banjo bolt? NO? can you hear the pump run within 30 seconds of the key bump? if you try this twice, you need to leave the key off for a couple 3 minutes before trying again.

you dont need a scanner or computer to figure out if you have fuel going to the injection pump, no fuel there, no run

 

where is your pump? in the tank or on the engine? you can't have both plumed in on the truck.

the in tank pump must be removed if you use the one on the engine or a differnt suction tube.

useing the one in the tank, the one on the engine must be removed or bypassed.

 

From the factory it had a sending unit in the tank and the pump on the drivers side of the engine bay. We replaced the in tank unit with the only thing available which is a sending unit and a pump together that is now in tank. Have not had a chance to clear the codes and recheck or check the VP44 yet

 

you will need to by pass the pump on the engine now, better yet, take the sending unit/pump back out of the tank, put it back the way it was, put on a new lift pump on the side of the engine if your going to sell it, you can buy them anywhere except the dealer.

i have a brand new one in the box for $75 from Peninsula Diesel if your interested.

if you get code 0216 the VP death code, it is not necessarily 100% positive the VP-$$ (44) injection pump is junk. it will kick out that code if the fuel is completely blocked from no fuel caused by frozen fuel line, high fuel restriction.............and the engine stalls.

if you drive it multiple miles with no fuel pressure, the VP-$$ gets burned up.

that is why it is so important if you have one of these animals, put in a fuel pressure gauge!!

 

This sounds very promising but I'm not getting my hopes completely up yet haha

I think my buddy already threw away the old sending unit. Is there any way to leave the new integrated one in the tank and disconnect the pump part of it and just replace the pump on the side of the motor and make that work like it used to be? Just have a disconnected worthless pump in the tank?

 

well at this point you will have to wire up the in tank pump and run a fuel line around the lift pump on the engine.

the stock lift pumps are not real bad, just a short life sometimes and if you mod them up not enough fuel GPH supply.

the kicker is when the lift pump dies you get no check engine light, no warning whats so ever until the engine dies. then you find out the lift pump is dead and most of the time the VP after that.

average cost to the average person is quite high, Cummins and the dealer over $3000. do it your self, $950 for the VP $135ish for the lift pump.

find your old tank unit and put it back the way it was with new lift pump will be faster.