Shand, did you find the coupling when you dismantled your LP? If so, what type of material was it made of?

 

I was afraid that it would be unrebuildable. Thanks for the info.

I have a Holley blue which is rebuildable. There are so many options out there for LPs it is crazy. I just monitor my gauges and replace what needs replacing. Good luck though!

-Geoff

 

remarc31,
I found no plastic in the pump that I disasembled. the coupling is a spline and grove type. The motor shaft is a male spline that resembles a spade on a screwdriver and the pump rotor is a slot in the bottom of a bored hole. The rotor sets on the shaft and is supported by the shaft alone.

If you have discovered something different, I get concerned. Is it possible that Carter has different pumps with the exact same outside apearance? Could this be the reason for the wide range of prices for these pumps, and what did I install in my truck? I looked for a bargain and bought a pump from Pep Boys for $179....I looked the same as the OEM......Dealer wanted $441.

wuda mess!

 

[QUOTE=shand101;1132181]remarc31,
I found no plastic in the pump that I disasembled. the coupling is a spline and grove type. The motor shaft is a male spline that resembles a spade on a screwdriver and the pump rotor is a slot in the bottom of a bored hole. The rotor sets on the shaft and is supported by the shaft alone.
================================================== ========
Shand, The motor shaft is the way you described it above, but the rotor has only the hole (no slot in the bottom of the bored hole). That's why there was some type of plastic coupling I suppose.

 

I got a Carter Campaign pump from Cummins for $64 roughly... Just like OEM pump...

I agree with Piperca there is a lot of pumps out there but I think the Walbro and FASS are the most trouble free system out there...

 

I think many people are having good luck with the Cummins' Campaign pump, at $65. With a Vulcan kit, it solves most problems, plus pump can easily be changed in 5 minutes in the future, not on the hot block. For $65, I am willing to gamble some. Got my gauges with FP, another must.
Good luck!

 

Remarc...You are absolutly correct. I might have over looked that point had you not led me to it. I can see where the plastic could be a problem in time.
I guess we won't be able to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. However, I am inclined to think like Supr.
Considering the cost of upgrading to a Fass or other "better" LP, I might just monitor this one and change it out as needed...Maybe every year or two whether it needs it or not, still a less expensive way to go.

This LP and possible vp44 damage thing has really got me in a tail spin. I used to love my big bad Dodge and felt so secure traveling cross country. Now I don't know what to do...Maybe I better sell it and get a Jap car

 

Shand, I agree we won't be able to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, but I am staying with the Carter LP at present. About a year ago I relocated my OEM to frame rail using the Vulcan relocate kit. I also added a pre-filter to pump. I used the Fleetguard FF105 filter and their filter base. So far my OEM is running strong after ca. 17,000 miles since the relocation. I carry a new spare Carter LP and will be able to change it in a just few minutes now. Also to further help the situation, I add Howes additive with every fillup for lubrication and water removal from the fuel.

 

The same hydralic harmonics which destroys the lift pump pressure relief valve also is the biggest destroyer of the injection pump. Fix the problem and both pumps last longer.

 

Shand-
If you do not need a big Diesel truck, I would get a car, Toyota, Nissan, Honda. I suspect there are times when you do need the truck.
Just watch your FP gauge, you should be fine, if you keep the truck. While a VP44 may fail, with adequate FP, they seem to be faily reliable. There are probably 1/2 million CTD Gen2's on the road, all in the same boat. Most just address the problem and keep driving.

 

supr.
You're right, I do need the truck. I need to pull a trailer back and forth from So Cal to Idaho.
I understand what you and everybody is saying and that is my worry, I have a little over 100K on the truck and lost a LP. Now I am told that the VP44 is liable to go since it may have been running without the LP for an extended period of time. I don't see any symptom or any indication that the VP44 is in trouble at this time, but still I'm afraid it will strand me in the desert. That unit is a little expensive to gust arbitrarily replace it. I guess what I'm trying to say is, how in heck can I regain my confidence with this VP44? Can it be tested to satisfy my cancerns?

 

Because you've been running without a LP for and extended period of time doesn't mean the VP will be going out any time soon.

The largest single failure point in the VP is the diaphram, which separates the high pressure chamber from the low pressure section of the pump, and the o-rings which seal it.

The high pressure area is where the fuel is pressurized before entering the plungers for final injection. It is pressured up by an internal vane pump, which is simular to the LP vane pump. It has a pressure bypass which returns excess fuel back to the low pressure section. It is this area where the timing is also done. Any leak here will throw a 0216 code. A stuck timing piston, which is in this area, will also throw the code.

A failed diapram will be cracked out. Maybe diaphram is the wrong word for it, because it is basically a metalized disk. They are quite tough and when you look at one you have to wonder how the lack of a few pounds of fuel pressure could crack it. Bosch has since updated the strength of all new diaphrams used in rebuilds.

Failed rubber o-rings look as if they were literally beat with a hammer, and it is easy to see how come they would leak. You also have to ask yourself how the lack of a few pounds of fuel pressure could damage them that way.

Look at the construction, look at the failures, and you will come away, as I have, with the opinion that low fuel pressure has nothing to do with the largest single failure point in the VP. Plus all you've got to do is study the forums a small amount to see that there are large amounts of trucks which never saw low fuel pressures, which have had failed VPs, as further proof.

I also have personal knowledge of 2 trucks which had dramatically low fuel pressure, from dead lift pumps, that are still going strong after 150,000 miles. By "dramatic", I mean low enough to immedaitely throw the 0216 code from the lack of fuel pressure. You could also tell it by the way they ran - acting just like a gasser with a plugged fuel filter.

The best way to tell the health of you VP is to throw a pressure guage on the schraider valve, which is on the tank return line. Don't pay to much attention to the actual pressure, but look closely at fluctuations of the needle at any particular pressure. If the needle is rapidly bouncing, it is an indication of an eminant VP failure in the future, unless the problem is fixed. If it is rock steady, your VP is probably in good shape.

It is rapid hydralic pulsations that is killing VPs, and ironically, also LPs. My belief is, this is the result of Cummins' decision to mount the LP on the engine block, an power it directly from a sensative electronic device - the ECM.

 

One other thought besides checking codes. Get a Tow policy with your insurance agent. We are RVer's, and Good Sam has an assist policy for all your vehicles for about $100/ year. Will change tires, bring fuel, tow however far if you break down. When we had a 34' Class A MH, they changed a number of 19.5" tires as ours were aging & self-destructing. These tires & wheels weigh about 125lbs each, not to mention jacking up the 14k MH, a dangerous job. Wheel lugs torqued to 450ftlbs.
Your insurance company will normally add towing for a buck or two.
Bring a cell phone in the desert. If that does not work, they have satelite phones for $15/mo that work anywhere, including 300 mins/mo.
Don't worry, be prepared! Stuff happens, but life goes on. Make the best of it, take the prescibed precautions as mentioned by the kowledgable folks on this site, and enjoy your CTD!!!

 

I noticed you have mentioned several times an in cab Fule Pressure Gauge. Are these electronic or do you have to run a pressure line inside the cab. Anysuggestions on a good gauge for the $$ ?

Thanks,

Jimmy

 

This is exactly what is plumbing in my gauge. I'm not fond of the electric senders. Too much area for errors. (Bad connection, failing sender, etc.)

Personally... I like DiPricols... Inexpensive and look great.