Pulling a hill at 30 psi I blew an intercooled boot right after the check engine light came on. I fixed the boot and now my truck only makes 3 psi of boost and intermittently my tuner kicks in and out. I’m thinking it’s the map sensor but are they’re any other sensors that would do this because by getting my codes read it shows 2 different low boost codes. Any help is appreciated.

 

Take a look at your turbo... check for shaft play, rubbing and other shenanigans.

If OK, check the other boots too.

 

So the check engine light came on during the pull? And at that time you pulled the codes and it was for low boost?

And what do you mean your tuner kicks in and out? Need more info...

 

IF the lower drivers boot popped, make sure the fender metal isn't cutting into it....Codes??

 

Not sure of the codes exact number or dodgeintific formula I know a few I have on a list but the kid at auto zone that scanned it had a lip ring and vaped in my truck so... as for the tuner I have discovered mashing the petal 3/4 times really angerly makes the truck run good without the tuner 10-15 psi and makes the tuner kick in and make 30+. I did the apps reset 3 times now to no avail which is why I have now narrowed my search to something in part to the little box that the throttle linkage hooks into that said that if service is required replace unit. What I’m going to call the apps module. The map sensor was a little oily my turbos good no play or catching it leaks a little oil but I just call that oil injection 😂. Nothing major but it will build up on the map over a 5000 mile range. A local performance guy told me the turbos good and took $1800 from me to literally solve nothing and put a dent in my cab corner I later discovered.

 

It sounds like something electrical of going on. I would start by making sure your batteries are in perfect condition and that there is no loose or corroded major cables and connections. Its amazing what road salt corrosion will do to an electrical system... If the batteries check out fine and everything else mentioned is not a problem then you'll want to check out the MAP sensor since thats the first sensor which would be telling the ECM that there's a low boost problem. The tuner is going to use the actual MAP signal for proper boosting but the fooler in the tuner is going to tell the ECM that boost is running normal for the fueling.

What tuner do you have?

 

Also note the tachometer flutters a little at idle and it’s sort of noticeable to the ear. And the tuner stays lit it’s not shutting on and off just kicking in and out. It’s an older bd comp box made by edge so it’s an edge comp 5x5

 

Disconnect the Comp and see if the truck runs normal. If it does then the problem is likely the older tuner. They do go bad...
That said, when you disconnect the Comp, if you have a boost elbow on the turbo wastegate then put it back to stock too otherwise you'll throw an overboost code.

 

The whole tuner gone bad thing makes sense the guy sold me it for $200 said it was outta his truck and he put a quadzilla or something in it so being on he was so dishonest and tried to cover up the damage to my truck I’d say he’s the type to sell me a boned tuner. Also all connections are perfect 90,000 miles never seen salt it’s kept in the garage in the winter.

 

Unplugged the tuner still no more than 5 psi plug it in do the throttle pump and boom 35 psi. Gunna get a new map if it doesn’t help the matter I’m going to have a new vP44 with no more than 15,000 miles for sale or partial trade for a p7100 and a $1500 drop at crazy Carl’s for the kit.

 

Not picking on you but its really hard to understand what you mean since you arent using complete sentences when you type... I'm sure you're using a phone to respond so I get it but its still hard to read.

As for your truck, I "think" you just said that you unplugged the Comp and the truck acted the same. Then you reconnected the Comp and boost jumped back up to 35 psi. Is that correct? If it is then I'd look for bad connections between the Comp and the MAP and BUS and if everything checks out fine then you may want to call Edge and see if they can help. But if I was wrong in understanding you and nothing improved or changed when disconnecting the Comp then I'd start with checking the MAP sensor.
As for P pumping the truck, you certainly have that option but just know that it too comes with a lengthy list of things that will change after the conversion since you're making a partially electronically controlled injection pump engine now run off a full mechanical injection pump. So things wont work the same, the engine will have a different power curve, you wont be able to use a tuner, and there are communication breaks between the electronics since the VP is no longer there.

 

Sorry for the confusion and late response yes I unplugged the comp and nothing changed. Now today going down the road my check engine went off while the tuner was off and the truck made 15psi stock. Then my tuner kicked in and it ran good for 10 minutes kicked off and the check engine came on again. I’m stumped. As for the ppump conversion I’m well aware I own 2 ppump trucks and a ve truck I’d take the other 3 **** boxes any day anymore. I honestly think a team of horses would pull my trailer faster. That ppump kit from crazy Carl’s sounds very compete and I have a pump so it shouldn’t be a problem, unless the kit isn’t as good as it sounds. Anyone have any input on a crazy Carl ppump kit?

 

I'm completely lost why your tuner turns on and off randomly... What kinda tuner is this? I dont know of one that "turns on" at all, as they're tied into the MAP and BUS connection. Meaning, when the key is on the tuner is getting power.

 

Looks like stream of consciousness writing- consciousness influenced by substances now legal in certain states..

Unplugged tuner kicking in... into what or whom- from the glovebox?

 

I’m not crazy or high maybe I wasn’t clear and I write like an uneducated farmer but the tuner used to run constantly and this truck rolled coal for days as well as had awesome power. Now all of the sudden the tuner kicks on and off but the lights stay lit on it. It has gotten to the point that it only works when I pump the throttle petal 3 times fast and hard it works until you let off of full throttle then the lights stay lit but the tuner seems to shut off or no longer give me any power. Which is why I know question my apps module. The tuner is an older bd diesel comp made by edge. This problem started before the intercooler boot blew but I just learned to drive it that way, but it may be part of the problem now after reading some comments. I bought the tuner used off of a guy that “fixed” my truck fixing it entailed throwing a tuner on it putting it in the ditch, denting my cab corner & rocker and giving me a pat on the back for $1800.( I don’t recommend bowsers performance in ringgold Pa)