Guys, what is done to the valve body to allow 2nd gear lockup on the 47RE?

 

No ideas? I sent an email to Goerend, but I haven't heard back from him.

 

You could install a lockup switch. http://www.tstproducts.com/Torque%20...p%20Switch.pdf

 

If I recall the hydraulics and wiring, all you have to do is ground the LU sol and be in second, third, or OD. The mystrey switch, I believe does that.
Not my recomendations, Just answered the question.

 

I already have a lockup switch, but it only works in 3rd and 4th. You have to do something to the valve body to get lockup in 2nd gear.

 

Looked at flow charts and sure looks as should work. All the elements appear to be in place at other critical points. Must be a reduced orfice size that changes balance that does it.

 

I got some info from a trans shop. He is sending me the parts and going to talk to my friend who does transmissions on how to do it.

 

Deezle Nate, when i did my lockup switch, the only way, 2nd gear would lock up was if i left it in drive and let it shift through the gears. if i shifted manually, it wouldnt lockup until it shifted into 3rd, fyi. now my trans is fried and am currently putting in a 5spd! ill have lock up in all 5 gears

 

Southern Pride:

Did the 5 spd go right in ? What sort of obstacles are involved going from an R47E to a 5 or 6 spd manual? I had one guy tell me I'd be better off (cheaper) in the long run just to sell and buy a different truck.

 

you have to bypass the trans relay in addition to the lockup switch for the tc to lock in 2nd.Install a jumper wire instead of the relay

 

I have a jumper wire.

You have to do internal mods to the valve body in order to get lockup in 2nd gear. I have the parts, just need to find time to install them.

 

hmmmmm maybe the 24v vb is different.On my 97 I had 2nd gear lockup with the stock vb

 

Silver Ram, dont listen to that advice. im "only" up to $2790 on the switch. its a long story, but its all just nuts and bolts. the fire wall already has holes predrilled for the slave cylinder, the brake and clutch pedals go right in easily, and everything else just bolts right back up. IIRC, you need tranny, bellhousing, slave/mastercylinder, new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, new front drive shaft (with the auto, the drive shaft is too long), input gear for t-case(the autos have a 23spline input gear in the t-cases, and the 5spd has the 29 spline; its not hard to change out, just tedious), new input gear bearing, and cut the hole in the floorboard. ive heard that the rear drive shaft needs is too short when you do the swap, i dont know for sure if so, then im screwed and gotta get another one. ive got the two piece drive shaft, and it should only have to be the upper part of the drive shaft. you also need to add all the necessary fluids and such. i hope im not missing anything if so, someone will pipe up about it. it sounds like a lot and it is, but it isnt. im in the marine corps, so i dont get home until 530pm or later, and my trucks outside and its been raining, and my roomates have like 4 vehicles, and weve been drinking beer and wiskey alot lately, and dodge screwed me out of some bolts, etc......... and thats why im not done yet

 

I'm not sure. The only info I could find was that most of the aftermarket VBs allowed it.

I talked to Georend (sp?) and he sent me the parts. It's just a modified valved, a spring, check ball and a sleeve of some sorts. Still waiting on him to call my trans guy to explain how it goes in there though...

 

Ok, I missed S.P.'s post, because that's what it is. I have 2nd gear lockup, but only if I click the switch when the truck is in drive.

I was trying it in manual 2nd instead.

I have the parts to make it work in manual 2nd though. It's just a bushing that blocks flow on the back side of the convertor lockup valve and a modified valve as well.

I spent a good hr looking at the oil flow diagrams and got it figured out.