Installed new VP44 and intank LP but didnt remove old transfer pump
08-10-2010, 11:01 AM
#31
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It's gonna be a long haul, so we have time to SLOWWWWWW down and get exactly what you need. No need for flame wars, lets just get a nice simple little set up. We aint lookin for a racing truck here. At least not yet 
.
Okay so now you know that you have, at most, $800.00 to spend to revamp your fuel system. It sound like your are more than capable of doing this your self so I think we need to focus on cost of parts. No need to get fancy, you don't need a whole bunch of fuel.
From what I have read, you basically need a new lift pump, mechanical FP gauge, and new fuel lines.
Dr. Evil has a very good write up for a mechanical fuel pressure gauge that is VERY inexpensive, under $50 all in.
You don't need to get fancy with your fuel lines either, should be $50.00 or less for those, including an in-line filter if you decide to go with a rail mount lift pump.
So call the FP gauge and the fuel lines with connectors and extras $150 bucks. That leaves us $650 for a lift pump. That should be very do-able but no reason to spend $650 for it if we really don't need to.
Okay guys, I know my FASS was just about all of 650 IIRC, What kind of options do we have for around the 4 to 500 range???
On edit: Robin looks to me like the fass ddrp 02 is a good option. You can get a stock (modified) lift pump from www.bluechipdiesel.com for under a hundred. Might want to do some research on those.
.Okay so now you know that you have, at most, $800.00 to spend to revamp your fuel system. It sound like your are more than capable of doing this your self so I think we need to focus on cost of parts. No need to get fancy, you don't need a whole bunch of fuel.
From what I have read, you basically need a new lift pump, mechanical FP gauge, and new fuel lines.
Dr. Evil has a very good write up for a mechanical fuel pressure gauge that is VERY inexpensive, under $50 all in.
You don't need to get fancy with your fuel lines either, should be $50.00 or less for those, including an in-line filter if you decide to go with a rail mount lift pump.
So call the FP gauge and the fuel lines with connectors and extras $150 bucks. That leaves us $650 for a lift pump. That should be very do-able but no reason to spend $650 for it if we really don't need to.
Okay guys, I know my FASS was just about all of 650 IIRC, What kind of options do we have for around the 4 to 500 range???
On edit: Robin looks to me like the fass ddrp 02 is a good option. You can get a stock (modified) lift pump from www.bluechipdiesel.com for under a hundred. Might want to do some research on those.
A fuel pressure gauge isnt very expensive and can be installed easily with some basic mechanical common sense too. Very important though.
As for fuel pumps, I think the Raptor is the best bang for the buck. About $400 and is basically an Airdog without the filters and air separation. A good quality pump for a few dollars more than the cheapo alternative fuel pumps which cost almost as much but have a significantly higher failure rate. It comes with all the necessary parts needed but you should opt for the added $40 fuel line kit from the filter housing to the VP and the $9 fitting to run the FP line off of.
So the way I figure, she should be looking at about between $550 and $600 in parts. Hopefully someone she knows is capable of putting it together for the rest. Heck, if I lived near by, I do it for a couple cold beers just to help out.
08-10-2010, 02:53 PM
#32
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I can probably do the rest myself ... not even worried about breaking a nail 
Just gotta get the filly sold to buy the parts. And "Mike" isn't getting the Chevy he lent me back (a POS but a running POS lol) until my truck is running and on the road :P
I will keep you guys posted on my parts purchases Thanks again for all your help.
Just gotta get the filly sold to buy the parts. And "Mike" isn't getting the Chevy he lent me back (a POS but a running POS lol) until my truck is running and on the road :PI will keep you guys posted on my parts purchases
Thanks again for all your help.
09-26-2010, 04:30 PM
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Updated status. Dropped the tank and put the original module back in. Installed a FASS ddrp 02 and a pressure guage.
Now we are trying to prime the system. We cracked lines #1, 2, and 4. Fuel comes out of 2 and 4, but not out of 1. PLEASE tell me that it could be something else besides a failed vp44. (Fuel pressure from the LP is fine btw).
Robin
Now we are trying to prime the system. We cracked lines #1, 2, and 4. Fuel comes out of 2 and 4, but not out of 1. PLEASE tell me that it could be something else besides a failed vp44. (Fuel pressure from the LP is fine btw).
Robin
09-26-2010, 09:03 PM
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I thought the VP is new. If so, don't consider that it might be bad. You probably have bleeding problems. It may be at the head but since you're dealing with new LP, we don't know that the LP is correct yet.
What fuel pressure do you have from the lift pump? If you have pressure, skip to the head. If the pump is working, you should have fuel at the VP. Try cracking the stock line where it goes into the VP. If you have fuel there, tighten the banjo bolt & move to the hard lines at the head.
Next crack some more lines at the head. You can work without the air horn in the way. Can also remove the rear engine lift point.
What fuel pressure do you have from the lift pump? If you have pressure, skip to the head. If the pump is working, you should have fuel at the VP. Try cracking the stock line where it goes into the VP. If you have fuel there, tighten the banjo bolt & move to the hard lines at the head.
Next crack some more lines at the head. You can work without the air horn in the way. Can also remove the rear engine lift point.
09-26-2010, 10:17 PM
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Yes the VP is new. I am thinking a possible bleeding problem. My batteries are pretty dead and of course I don't have a charger. Am going to borrow my brothers tomorrow. I had read 2 different things on here ..one was to bump the starter to get the lp going to prime the vp and lines,and then I read you have to actually crank it (by this time I didn't have enough juice). Should I have been actually cranking it?
09-26-2010, 10:36 PM
#37
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All you should have to do is bump it a few times. And your batteries should be in great condition and up to the task or that could affect your outcome.
09-26-2010, 11:23 PM
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Robin, I changed out fuel filters yesterday on my air dog and though it states you should not have to pre fill filter it took several turns of key to get A.D to fill seperator and filter after running out of fuel on first start up.I did not crack lines and she did start though.When I was having problems before my I.P went south cracking #1 line was enough to get her to start that might be your problem too many lines open JMO. Nate
09-27-2010, 10:45 AM
#39
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My AirDog runs for the first key to run. 2nd & 3rd require the engine to crank or waiting a significant amount of time (ie minute - I haven't timed it) for it to run again. That said, the AirDog primed itself when it ran because of the engine crank and no start.
I suggest bleeding where fuel goes into the VP. Get fuel there, tighten that joint back up & bleed at the hard lines on the head.
You can tighten the lines back when you have fuel leaking.
I suggest bleeding where fuel goes into the VP. Get fuel there, tighten that joint back up & bleed at the hard lines on the head.
You can tighten the lines back when you have fuel leaking.
09-27-2010, 03:50 PM
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Hmmm guess what my questions is ... is why I would get fuel out of lines 3 and 4 but not out of 1. That's why I had asked about whether even a new vp44 could have problems. If 3 and 4 have fuel would bleeding where the fuel goes into the vp44 really make a difference? (I mean wouldn't it have already had to be bled there for lines 3 and 4 to have fuel?) These are really just questions at this point as I am at still at work and will need to charge batteries, etc, before I can do anything else.
09-28-2010, 06:30 AM
#43
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Last time I worked on my '01 I had fuel coming from 3 and 4. I couldn't for the life of me get fuel out of 1. So I cranked the engine for about 20 seconds and it kicked off as I let off and died. I cranked again and it took off this time. It will run rough just cause of the air that might still be in the lines, but it will smooth out eventually. Just my .02
swordfish
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09-28-2010, 08:38 AM
#44
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Last time I worked on my '01 I had fuel coming from 3 and 4. I couldn't for the life of me get fuel out of 1. So I cranked the engine for about 20 seconds and it kicked off as I let off and died. I cranked again and it took off this time. It will run rough just cause of the air that might still be in the lines, but it will smooth out eventually. Just my .02
swordfish
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I have the DDRP and so far so good.
09-29-2010, 06:53 PM
#45
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I want to thank all of you guys big time ... after about 20-30 seconds of cranking she started right up and after about 2 seconds was running smoother than I had heard her in a long time. You guys are the best.
Still gotta drop the tank though one more time. The fuel guage isn't reading so I need to make sure that the float isn't stuck (or the module bad I guess) ... I know for a fact that there are a least a few gallons of fuel so it should be registering at least something. lol
Oh um ... anyone know where the info on the DDRP is printed? (motor number and pump number) ... I need it for the warranty and of course didn't notice until the pump was already installed lol
Robin
Still gotta drop the tank though one more time. The fuel guage isn't reading so I need to make sure that the float isn't stuck (or the module bad I guess) ... I know for a fact that there are a least a few gallons of fuel so it should be registering at least something. lol
Oh um ... anyone know where the info on the DDRP is printed? (motor number and pump number) ... I need it for the warranty and of course didn't notice until the pump was already installed lol
Robin