Hello folks
I took my cylinder head in to the machine shop, they cleaned, checked for cracks and decked it.
I bought a upper engine gasket set from Cummins P/N 4090035, It has a head gasket in the set P/N 3977063.

I did not see a new set of seal rings for the injectors ( the seals near the tip of the injector)

Question 1. Do you replace them while you have it apart and if so do you have a Cummins P/N?

Question 2. Is there any tricks to doing a cylinder head replacement ?

The manual from Dodge says to check the head bolts for stretching, the above kit didn't have a stretch gage.

Question 3 How do you check this? Tape measure?

Question 4 Do you retorque the bolts after the engine has been operated?

I've replaced head gaskets on farm tractors and construction equipment and didn't retorque them.

Thanks for your help.
See Ya
Chris

The truck is a 2001 2500 with the H O engine and 6 speed. 145K miles
I will be putting my baby back

 

I'll try an answer some of these.

I just did the head on my 12Valve truck. never had to pull the one on my 2001 truck.

Anyway,
I have re-used the copper injector washers before without problems. with that said, if you can get them, I'd go for it. I don't know the p/n.

I did the initial torque then I retorqued mine, as it was recommended to me, after warming all the way up and cooling off completely. Then I drove for a about 300 miles really easy and did another cold retoruqe. Knock on wood, no problems so far.

I went with studs instead of bolts but I am fairly sure that cummins has a stretch check gauge available.

Sorry I wasn't any help on p/n's.

goood luck,
Jason

 

According to my manual, the stretch guage should come with headgasket. The free length maximum is 132.1mm or 5.200in. Measured from the bottom flat of the head of the bolt to the end. A good 6"caliper with a depth rod should be fine.
I am swtiching to studs as well. If any of your are long, pm me, I might have a few laying around.

I resuse the copper injector washer as well. Havn't had a problem yet.

 

Thank you
You both have told me what I thought was what I should do.

I did not open the head gasket package inside the set, to see if the stretch gage was in there. When I get done tonight on the computer I'll go check.

I have been running, fixing or supervising the operators of diesel powered equipment since the 1970s.
I havn't been posting much lately, but have been a memember for a long time now. I got home from work and did some yard work before I started putting my head back together I wanted to see what the site had to say.
I know alot of the folks who run this site and have alot of respect for them.

When I get home tomorrow I will get to work putting my truck back together. I have been using my son's truck to get to work.

So are you going to ARP studs? Are you using the stock holes? Where are you getting the studs? I have some time to work this project (My son don't return from Iraq until March) I can sit the cylinder head back on and snug it down and replace everything else while I wait on the studs.

Thanks again
See Ya
Chris

 

Chris,

The reason I went to studs is that I surely didn't want to do this again and I was making a little more power than stock. Nothing too crazy but a little extra fuel and some timing.

Anyway, new bolts were going to cost enough that I just went for the studs. I have been buying parts lately from puredieselpower.com if you are looking to buy a set.

Garrett has good prices and has always treated me very good. Studs aren't cheap though and I'm still feeling the pain from that one in my wallet

And you use the same holes that the bolts are in, if you go with 12mm studs there are no modifications needed.

Take care,
Jason

 

Thank You
JStull
I am running twice the power that Cummins put in my Dodge pick up. On a few different dyno jet Dynos I have ran well over 400 HP and well over 900 ft pounds of torque. I am NOT STOCK.
Thanks for your help on this project.
I may order the studs and replace the bolts one at a time when they get here.

Thanks for the help. I have gauges and a bit of commom sense, they seem to go a long ways.

Thank You
See Ya
Chris

 

I'd do a couple of heat cycles after they are installed. I think I'm knocking on the 400hp door but I doubt I'm over that and I feel much better with the studs instead of bolts. With your setup, I'd do studs for sure.

I just hate doing things like this twice. I'm still young and stupid at 29 but I had a friend tell me once that his dad always said that only the rich can afford to go cheap... because they can afford to do it twice and 3 times if necessary.

My best to your son and his safe return.

Jason

 

Wish your son a safe return.

I also went to arp studs because of hp and boost. I went to the 625's cause of fire rings and a little extra insurance of not EVER wanting to do this again. I also didn't want to drill and tap the block. Will be running twins again when I get mine back together. I would like to get to the 600 hp club.