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Dying LP, thanks to all - saw it before breakdown

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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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From: No Cal
Dying LP, thanks to all - saw it before breakdown

Just purchased a 2001 QC, 24V CTD with 101K on it and thanks to this very helpfull site and its members 1st thing I did was get a pressure gauge and checked LP. Found that LP seems to be dying. Starts cold at ~15 PSI at Idle, but sometimes will drop to ~7 PSI once engine warms up and will stay that way (will drop to ~2 PSI WOT, bad!). Without the measurement I would have never known, truck runs just fine with no hesitation and starts very well, hot or cold.

I ordered a pump & 4 washers from Hoesli Diesel and will replace the old one ASAP (tech at Hoesli was very helpfull during order placement, including replacement advice). I am planning a long trip and this saved me from potentialy being stranded.

Thanks to all for great forum, plan to read it often - hope it's just for fun!

PS - Sorry, I think I should have posted this in drivetrain section
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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Glad we could help.
Thread has been moved.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 12:36 AM
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forgot to ask

Before I start the swap of LP. The hose connected to the LP has a blue plastic fitting, is that an easy disconnect fitting, or should I just go at the banjos with a wrench? If they are, it may be simpler to remove the banjos after I take out the old pump - any suggestions?
I saw instructions to remove starter and access from the bottom as well as losening the fuel filter and accessing from the top - which is easier?
thanks.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:05 AM
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From the top for me.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:16 AM
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from the top for me also, and took the banjo bolts out before removing the pump, also removed the fuel filter houseing to get more room, but long arms would help the most. then ripped all the stock lines out and replace it with a FASS system.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:17 AM
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Go at it from the top. Having a third hand to catch it from underneath and hand the new one up through might help.
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Old Jan 31, 2006 | 09:10 AM
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Just did an LP replacement and big line kit/FP gauge install last night, much easier from the top. It's easiest to remove the line at the banjo fitting (11/16") as you have to remove the line bracket at the pump anyway to get the pump out. I found I could get my left arm in following the side of the block behind the intake pipe and work my right arm in next to the firewall behind all the brake lines/wiring (there's a path to do this). Pump removal was pretty easy. I relocated the LP to the frame much lower, the most difficult part was extending the pump wiring harness. I used crimp fittings, removed the plastic sheathing on the crimp fittings and then soldered. A little difficult to solder while snaked in over the engine.

Good luck!

Dave
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Old Feb 1, 2006 | 06:16 AM
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I installed my gauges last weekend. Fuel pressure was fine all day saturday. Ran it to work monday and tuesday, noticed the gauge jumping around. 12psi to 6psi to 0psi back to 12psi. Thought maybe my sending unit was getting funny on me so I checked it with a mechanical gauge. Same behavior.

Looks like I caught it just before it .
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Old Feb 2, 2006 | 10:25 PM
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Thanks for all the tips. Got the pump & swapped it for the failing one.

Idle 14.5 psi, cruise 12.5 psi and 9 psi floored.

The job was reasonably straight forward with all the tips I received, though do have a new one for anyone doing this. Attach the OUT banjo/line before you mount the pump or make sure the pump is very loose. The routing of the hose needs to go straight up to the fuel filter and that is tricky to do with the loose fuel filter (pulling hose down, if I lift it the access becomes difficult). It may be easy to also disconnect at clamp (take off & put on OUT banjo with pump outside engine compartment). And yes, the washers are a bi..h to find if you drop one, luckily I did order a set with the pump they were cheap enough (and you guys warned me).

I hear the shop quotes ~1hr for the swap, hate to admit took me twice that.

Ready to go! Thanks again.
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 10:51 AM
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I hear the shop quotes ~1hr for the swap, hate to admit took me twice that.
Shoot, I wouldn't sweat that!

Those were Shop estimates, not back yard/weekend mechanic times!
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by amh
I hear the shop quotes ~1hr for the swap, hate to admit took me twice that.
Trust me, after doing several you can get it down to 45 mins or less!

You might want to look into a FASS II for a future upgrade.

LookingovermyshoulderfortheWalbroboys.
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Old Feb 3, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by amh
I hear the shop quotes ~1hr for the swap, hate to admit took me twice that.
But they don't get time for beer and bathroom breaks.

Q: How does a blind man tell the difference between the Service Writers and the Mechanics in a dealership?




V




V




V




He hangs out near the Washroom.
Service Writers wash their hands after they go to the bathroom.
Mechanics wash theirs before.
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