Dumb question
True, I guess that makes sense. After all, 2-cycle oil was meant for burning right??
So you guys mix 0.5 oz. per gallon of diesel? Dang, that's like 16 oz. in a fill-up! Won't that stuff accumulate in your fuel tank after a while?
So you guys mix 0.5 oz. per gallon of diesel? Dang, that's like 16 oz. in a fill-up! Won't that stuff accumulate in your fuel tank after a while?
Diesel fuel is a light oil, sorta like kerosene with added oil - the added motor oil dilutes and blends with the fuel - the fuel sloshes in the tank anytime the vehicle is moving - it's shaken, not stirred, james............
I'm gonna have to go out and get me some 2-stroke oil from now on. Don't know if I'll use it every tank but we'll see. So what's the general consensus? Is 2-stroke oil better than other stuff like Powerservice?
can anyone else recommend which type of 2stroke oil to use? the stuff for air-cooled engines(the pre-mix stuff) or the outboard engine stuff (stuff with oil injection, like snowmobiles)? Just trying to get as many opinions as possible. Also, does the 2-stroke have any kind of cleaning properties (ex. detergants) in it that would help keep the fuel system clean?
can anyone else recommend which type of 2stroke oil to use? the stuff for air-cooled engines(the pre-mix stuff) or the outboard engine stuff (stuff with oil injection, like snowmobiles)? Just trying to get as many opinions as possible. Also, does the 2-stroke have any kind of cleaning properties (ex. detergants) in it that would help keep the fuel system clean?
I think I'll just go with whatever is cheaper. I think that'll be the outboard oil. If I were to spend $4 to buy 2-stroke oil and "gain" 1-2 mpg, then I could just as easily buy a gallon of diesel and "gain" 17 mpg.
Because 2-stroke engines pollute via the exhaust - oily sheen on the waterways across and surrounding America - the newer outboard engines are 4-stroke, with intake and exhaust valves, requiring lube oil in the crankcase, oil not meant for combustion-chamber service.
That is the only real difference that I know of: 4-stroke oil for modern outboard engines with valves, and two-stroke for everything else - just make sure it's ashless 2-stroke oil so it's low-sulphur - also spelled sulfur - don't need any sulphonated products, either.
Don't need any detergents to clean the inj pump and system, detergents which can leave hard deposits in the combustion chamber
Power Service has cetane boosters - try it and see what benefits you get B4 adding the 2-s, then after - if it works for ya, go fer it - I use both - much cheaper than a rebuilt IP.
That is the only real difference that I know of: 4-stroke oil for modern outboard engines with valves, and two-stroke for everything else - just make sure it's ashless 2-stroke oil so it's low-sulphur - also spelled sulfur - don't need any sulphonated products, either.
Don't need any detergents to clean the inj pump and system, detergents which can leave hard deposits in the combustion chamber
Power Service has cetane boosters - try it and see what benefits you get B4 adding the 2-s, then after - if it works for ya, go fer it - I use both - much cheaper than a rebuilt IP.
i tryed the power service before (both of them) and didn't notice any fuel mileage improvement. I been using fppf's total power and MMO at each fill up and noticed about a 1mpg improvement. Of course I only started using that around the same time the gas stations started getting the "summer" fuel in, so maybe my mileage gain was just due to that too.
Because 2-stroke engines pollute via the exhaust - oily sheen on the waterways across and surrounding America - the newer outboard engines are 4-stroke, with intake and exhaust valves, requiring lube oil in the crankcase, oil not meant for combustion-chamber service.
That is the only real difference that I know of: 4-stroke oil for modern outboard engines with valves, and two-stroke for everything else - just make sure it's ashless 2-stroke oil so it's low-sulphur - also spelled sulfur - don't need any sulphonated products, either.
Don't need any detergents to clean the inj pump and system, detergents which can leave hard deposits in the combustion chamber
Power Service has cetane boosters - try it and see what benefits you get B4 adding the 2-s, then after - if it works for ya, go fer it - I use both - much cheaper than a rebuilt IP.
That is the only real difference that I know of: 4-stroke oil for modern outboard engines with valves, and two-stroke for everything else - just make sure it's ashless 2-stroke oil so it's low-sulphur - also spelled sulfur - don't need any sulphonated products, either.
Don't need any detergents to clean the inj pump and system, detergents which can leave hard deposits in the combustion chamber
Power Service has cetane boosters - try it and see what benefits you get B4 adding the 2-s, then after - if it works for ya, go fer it - I use both - much cheaper than a rebuilt IP.
ever have a two stroke motorcycle after awhile the exhaust and ports and even the carb gets full of gunk mixed with oil if not cleaned constantly so it doesn't burn completly i had a snomobile motor in a gocart it had egt's of 1200* but still filled the exhaust with oil after awhile and that was at 50 to 1
If the mileage gain for 4$ is 1-2MPG then with a 35gallon tank that equals anywhere between 35-70 extra miles to the tank full, How many gallons of fuel would you have to buy to go the 35-70miles? I'm going out on a limb but I'm guessing it will cost more than 4$ (I'm assuming the 4$ is what you calcuated the oil to cost per fill up) I dont look at it from the mileage gain (nice by product) but by the fact that diesel is dry and does not have the lub characteristics it used to have.
So in the interest of cheaper (as stated above) increased mileage (if true) and a longer lasting pump for a few extra dollars per fill (providing the electronics dont go first) I'm thinking that it is cheaper to run some additive of some kind be it a homebrew or bottled stuff,
And for the post of the fellow who was running a snowmobile engine at 50:1 and having it choke up, I believe it is a poor comparison, gas and diesel engines have entirely different compression ratios (diesel engine was designed to BURN oil ) gas engines were not. the two stroke needs the oil not to burn off entirely otherwise the engine would sieze from the lack of oil, thats why different gas engines reguire different ratios. BTW what would the ratio of oil to diesel be on a 34 gallons to 1-2 cups of 2stroke oil? (not that good at math LOL)
Gasoline has an octane additive - reduces the ability of the fuel to self-detonate, since it is spark-ignited - self-detonation is ping and rattle, not even good in a gasoline-fueled engine
Gasser engines don't run well with oils in the combustion chamber, as they lower the octane rating - the oil seldom combusts, only providing lubrication as it passes thru - get it too hot and it carbonizes - compare it to a gasser with bad rings and excess blowby
Diesel fuel, on the other hand, has a cetane additive which promotes self-detonation, since it is heat-ignited - the oil is the fuel - ping and rattle is good.
Also has a secondary benefit - as the light oil is injected at the top of the compression stroke, there is no washing the crankcase lube off the cylinder walls - that's how a Diesel engine can run a million miles with little blowby.
Gassers (patooie!), however, truck the fuel load in with the intake air charge - the gasoline washes most of the lube from the rings and cyl walls on the intake stroke, finishing the job on the compression stroke - ever see a gasser cylinder at 100kmi?
Talk about a ridge, not even to mention yer cylinder taper...............
Gasser engines don't run well with oils in the combustion chamber, as they lower the octane rating - the oil seldom combusts, only providing lubrication as it passes thru - get it too hot and it carbonizes - compare it to a gasser with bad rings and excess blowby
Diesel fuel, on the other hand, has a cetane additive which promotes self-detonation, since it is heat-ignited - the oil is the fuel - ping and rattle is good.
Also has a secondary benefit - as the light oil is injected at the top of the compression stroke, there is no washing the crankcase lube off the cylinder walls - that's how a Diesel engine can run a million miles with little blowby.
Gassers (patooie!), however, truck the fuel load in with the intake air charge - the gasoline washes most of the lube from the rings and cyl walls on the intake stroke, finishing the job on the compression stroke - ever see a gasser cylinder at 100kmi?
Talk about a ridge, not even to mention yer cylinder taper...............
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