Diesel specialist needed,..throttle problem
http://www.dieselperformanceparts.com/
Hey guys/gals/mechanics,
First my apollogies for my late reply,....work and a bad internet connection delayed it.
Did a Reset on the codes (took the battery leads off for about 4 hours)
Reconnected them,...and these codes came up before starting:
1st test:
P - PCU
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe
2nd test:
A system/gauges check (hold down trip reset button while turning ON your ignition and OFF 3 times within 5seconds,...without starting,....then let go of both and read the following)
20MPH - 1000 RPM
55MPH - 2000 RPM
120MPH - 4000 RPM
All gauges working properly/all systems are a GO.
3rd test: (before starting 3 times ignition ON and OFF)
p - PCU
P - 1693
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe
Everytime I turn ON my ignition I can hear the "liftpump" go ON only for about 2 seconds!
Is that "good" or a very "bad" sign?
Idle 850 RPM
Peddle floored (with a warm/hot engine) in Neutral 4000 RPM
Peddle floored in Drive (my truck is an automatic) for the first 5 minutes my truck will NOT go over 1000 RPM!
Drove/Idled for about 2 miles before pulling back in my driveway.
Hope this helps PIN-POINTING my problem, before I waste any hard earned money.
Thanks in advance again.
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
First my apollogies for my late reply,....work and a bad internet connection delayed it.
Did a Reset on the codes (took the battery leads off for about 4 hours)
Reconnected them,...and these codes came up before starting:
1st test:
P - PCU
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe
2nd test:
A system/gauges check (hold down trip reset button while turning ON your ignition and OFF 3 times within 5seconds,...without starting,....then let go of both and read the following)
20MPH - 1000 RPM
55MPH - 2000 RPM
120MPH - 4000 RPM
All gauges working properly/all systems are a GO.
3rd test: (before starting 3 times ignition ON and OFF)
p - PCU
P - 1693
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe
Everytime I turn ON my ignition I can hear the "liftpump" go ON only for about 2 seconds!
Is that "good" or a very "bad" sign?
Idle 850 RPM
Peddle floored (with a warm/hot engine) in Neutral 4000 RPM
Peddle floored in Drive (my truck is an automatic) for the first 5 minutes my truck will NOT go over 1000 RPM!
Drove/Idled for about 2 miles before pulling back in my driveway.
Hope this helps PIN-POINTING my problem, before I waste any hard earned money.
Thanks in advance again.
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
I'm beginning to believe that a single set of scans isn't definitive. I've had a 0216 with a scanner while getting an apps code with the key. Cleared coeds with scanner then got over boost which I expect because the waste gate sticks. Then got 1693 on key and nothing on scanner. Obviously, no parts are going on until something specific is diagnosed. Truck is running fine.
Hey guys/gals/mechanics,
First my apollogies for my late reply,....work and a bad internet connection delayed it.
Did a Reset on the codes (took the battery leads off for about 4 hours)
Reconnected them,...and these codes came up before starting:
1st test:
P - PCU
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe
2nd test:
A system/gauges check (hold down trip reset button while turning ON your ignition and OFF 3 times within 5seconds,...without starting,....then let go of both and read the following)
20MPH - 1000 RPM
55MPH - 2000 RPM
120MPH - 4000 RPM
All gauges working properly/all systems are a GO.
3rd test: (before starting 3 times ignition ON and OFF)
p - PCU
P - 1693
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe
Everytime I turn ON my ignition I can hear the "liftpump" go ON only for about 2 seconds!
Is that "good" or a very "bad" sign?
Idle 850 RPM
Peddle floored (with a warm/hot engine) in Neutral 4000 RPM
Peddle floored in Drive (my truck is an automatic) for the first 5 minutes my truck will NOT go over 1000 RPM!
Drove/Idled for about 2 miles before pulling back in my driveway.
Hope this helps PIN-POINTING my problem, before I waste any hard earned money.
Thanks in advance again.
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
First my apollogies for my late reply,....work and a bad internet connection delayed it.
Did a Reset on the codes (took the battery leads off for about 4 hours)
Reconnected them,...and these codes came up before starting:
1st test:
P - PCU
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe
2nd test:
A system/gauges check (hold down trip reset button while turning ON your ignition and OFF 3 times within 5seconds,...without starting,....then let go of both and read the following)
20MPH - 1000 RPM
55MPH - 2000 RPM
120MPH - 4000 RPM
All gauges working properly/all systems are a GO.
3rd test: (before starting 3 times ignition ON and OFF)
p - PCU
P - 1693
P - doNe
P - ECU
P - 0216
P - doNe
Everytime I turn ON my ignition I can hear the "liftpump" go ON only for about 2 seconds!
Is that "good" or a very "bad" sign?
Idle 850 RPM
Peddle floored (with a warm/hot engine) in Neutral 4000 RPM
Peddle floored in Drive (my truck is an automatic) for the first 5 minutes my truck will NOT go over 1000 RPM!
Drove/Idled for about 2 miles before pulling back in my driveway.
Hope this helps PIN-POINTING my problem, before I waste any hard earned money.
Thanks in advance again.
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
also as far as I know you need a scanner to clear codes (unhooking the batterys wont do it) also 0216 is a wore out pump, it cant achieve its desired timing, and unless you started the truck first The ECM would have no idea that the pump is wore out
...someone can correct me if I'm wrong
I still believe your gonna be 1000$ poorer
problem dealer confirmed
Alright,...so heres what needs replacing, my vp44 and my liftpump according to the dealer diagnosis/read-out.
VP44 is mechanically worn out and it's timing is off
liftpump is supposed to give 10 psi but is barely making 7 psi while idleSo heres my order list to repair my problem NOW,....and for a stable pressurized future:
Order List:
VP44 specialX from BlueChip Diesel, 2-3mpg gain
FASS 95 series Fuel Air Separation System, 95gph flow rate, 3-6 mpg gain
Seeing that fixin my truck is gonna cost me a bucket load of money anyway,....might as well tackle ALL restrictions to gain some serious INCREASE in MPG's!
Sooo I'm thinking about this too: MBRP Installer Series Aluminized Exhaust System for 1994-2002 Dodge 5.9L Cummins, 5 Inch Turbo Back Single,....with less restrictions there should be a better overall MPG right?
Installation procedure:
Dismantle and clean-out my fuel-tank, and put back into place,
install vp44 specialX
install FASS 95 series
install mechanical or electrical fuel pressure monitor system?!?!? not sure which to GO with!
I'm kind of doubting inbetween "Mechanical" and "Electrical" monitoring systems.
I know Blue Chip Diesel sells a little fuel pressure control light for only $55.00 which is great,...
But what if that light bulp goes out without you KNOWING it and the fuel pressure drops?,......good guess,...your VP44 goes to hell anyway!
SOOO,.........I'm doubting inbetween the following continious monitoring systems:
"Mechanical"
ISSPRO Performax, 3 X GAUGE KIT 98-02 DODGE CUMMINS,
Black Face/Red pointer, kit comes with:
- 0-1600° pyrometer, 0-40 Psi boost, 0-40 Psi fuel Pressure, and pillar With Speaker cutout
and ISSPRO R72022- Lighting wire harness to connect to the OEM dimmer.
What's the maximum/average/minimum "pyro-temperature" & "turbo boost" of a stock 24Valve 5.9L cummins truck anyway?
Or "Electrical"
Edge 31101 2001-2002 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Juice w/ Attitude CTS?
or
Blue Chip Wizard "Fuel Management System"?
The Electrical "programmers" do have one big advantage over mechanical,....you CAN actually read live diagnostics on the fly and monitor upto 12 functions at once!
I guess I'm kind of a "mechanical" kinda guy,.......somehow I just dont trust those "Electrical" systems (programmers) that CAN really MESS up your truck.
My truck is all stock except for the Ranch Hand Bumpers, 20" wheels and ofcourse the (to order) NEW VP44 specialX, and FASS 95 series liftpump.
It IS strange that you CAN find ALL the info on what those programmers CAN DO,.........but you cannot find ANYTHING about ACCURACY marges on them things!
Same thing with the mechanical gauges,...although thusfar ISSPRO Performax gauges series (made in the USA) come out ontop with reading alot of reviews.
HorsePower increase is not really essential here, my stock truck runs/tows 5th wheels (normally) smooooth as anything,......
MONITORING the FUEL PRESSURE is what it's all about!
Although,.....I guess a couple extra horses (without changing out the stock injectors) won't hurt,...especially going uphill with a 5th wheel 40' trailer behind ya.
Any thoughts / ideas / tips on all of this guys/gals/mechanics?
Thanks in advance again
NICE_N_EEEZ
VP44 is mechanically worn out and it's timing is off
liftpump is supposed to give 10 psi but is barely making 7 psi while idleSo heres my order list to repair my problem NOW,....and for a stable pressurized future:
Order List:
VP44 specialX from BlueChip Diesel, 2-3mpg gain
FASS 95 series Fuel Air Separation System, 95gph flow rate, 3-6 mpg gain
Seeing that fixin my truck is gonna cost me a bucket load of money anyway,....might as well tackle ALL restrictions to gain some serious INCREASE in MPG's!
Sooo I'm thinking about this too: MBRP Installer Series Aluminized Exhaust System for 1994-2002 Dodge 5.9L Cummins, 5 Inch Turbo Back Single,....with less restrictions there should be a better overall MPG right?
Installation procedure:
Dismantle and clean-out my fuel-tank, and put back into place,
install vp44 specialX
install FASS 95 series
install mechanical or electrical fuel pressure monitor system?!?!? not sure which to GO with!
I'm kind of doubting inbetween "Mechanical" and "Electrical" monitoring systems.
I know Blue Chip Diesel sells a little fuel pressure control light for only $55.00 which is great,...
But what if that light bulp goes out without you KNOWING it and the fuel pressure drops?,......good guess,...your VP44 goes to hell anyway!
SOOO,.........I'm doubting inbetween the following continious monitoring systems:
"Mechanical"
ISSPRO Performax, 3 X GAUGE KIT 98-02 DODGE CUMMINS,
Black Face/Red pointer, kit comes with:
- 0-1600° pyrometer, 0-40 Psi boost, 0-40 Psi fuel Pressure, and pillar With Speaker cutout
and ISSPRO R72022- Lighting wire harness to connect to the OEM dimmer.
What's the maximum/average/minimum "pyro-temperature" & "turbo boost" of a stock 24Valve 5.9L cummins truck anyway?
Or "Electrical"
Edge 31101 2001-2002 Dodge 5.9L Cummins Juice w/ Attitude CTS?
or
Blue Chip Wizard "Fuel Management System"?
The Electrical "programmers" do have one big advantage over mechanical,....you CAN actually read live diagnostics on the fly and monitor upto 12 functions at once!
I guess I'm kind of a "mechanical" kinda guy,.......somehow I just dont trust those "Electrical" systems (programmers) that CAN really MESS up your truck.
My truck is all stock except for the Ranch Hand Bumpers, 20" wheels and ofcourse the (to order) NEW VP44 specialX, and FASS 95 series liftpump.
It IS strange that you CAN find ALL the info on what those programmers CAN DO,.........but you cannot find ANYTHING about ACCURACY marges on them things!
Same thing with the mechanical gauges,...although thusfar ISSPRO Performax gauges series (made in the USA) come out ontop with reading alot of reviews.
HorsePower increase is not really essential here, my stock truck runs/tows 5th wheels (normally) smooooth as anything,......
MONITORING the FUEL PRESSURE is what it's all about!
Although,.....I guess a couple extra horses (without changing out the stock injectors) won't hurt,...especially going uphill with a 5th wheel 40' trailer behind ya.
Any thoughts / ideas / tips on all of this guys/gals/mechanics?
Thanks in advance again
NICE_N_EEEZ
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,639
Likes: 0
From: Wyoming
Just replaced my VP - Bummer!!!!!
Anyway, I went with Autometer gauges, they are not LED so need for the extra dimmer thingy. just a choice really, hear good things about both.
I don't believe you will get an increase in fuel mileage with the FASS. At least I didn't.
May get a small increase with the 5", didn't see much if any with my 4". I did notice the truck did run better though. Sounds good also.
5" is a pain to install from what I have heard, but don't know from experience.
Not sure about programmers, sorry. Ask Blake Clark. He's pretty smart, good guy too.
I did notice a pretty good increase in performance with a cold air intake. But no real fuel mileage increase.
I get reimbursed for fuel, so I have to keep very tight records. My driving from home to ND includes highway, interstate, town and back roads all in one trip. So I now exactly what my mileage is, and the trip repeats pretty regularly. FWIW.
To sum it up, at least in my opinion, if your looking for raw power and racing type stuff, go with the 5", programmers and big fueling lift pump.
If this is just a work, occasional toy hauling truck, then I would bank your cash, get a DDRP (or something like that), 4" exhaust, cold air intake, and a set of gauges (FP,Boost,Pyro, and/or tranny temp). The rest is stuff you may never use/need.
I doubt you will ever see a 4 to 5 mile per gallon increase, unless you truck is running really, really bad bad right now. Just my experience though.
Good Luck!!! Sounds like your gonna have a SAAAAWEEEET truck!!!
JMO
Anyway, I went with Autometer gauges, they are not LED so need for the extra dimmer thingy. just a choice really, hear good things about both.
I don't believe you will get an increase in fuel mileage with the FASS. At least I didn't.
May get a small increase with the 5", didn't see much if any with my 4". I did notice the truck did run better though. Sounds good also.
5" is a pain to install from what I have heard, but don't know from experience.
Not sure about programmers, sorry. Ask Blake Clark. He's pretty smart, good guy too.
I did notice a pretty good increase in performance with a cold air intake. But no real fuel mileage increase.
I get reimbursed for fuel, so I have to keep very tight records. My driving from home to ND includes highway, interstate, town and back roads all in one trip. So I now exactly what my mileage is, and the trip repeats pretty regularly. FWIW.
To sum it up, at least in my opinion, if your looking for raw power and racing type stuff, go with the 5", programmers and big fueling lift pump.
If this is just a work, occasional toy hauling truck, then I would bank your cash, get a DDRP (or something like that), 4" exhaust, cold air intake, and a set of gauges (FP,Boost,Pyro, and/or tranny temp). The rest is stuff you may never use/need.
I doubt you will ever see a 4 to 5 mile per gallon increase, unless you truck is running really, really bad bad right now. Just my experience though.
Good Luck!!! Sounds like your gonna have a SAAAAWEEEET truck!!!
JMO
I did notice a pretty good increase in performance with a cold air intake. But no real fuel mileage increase.
To sum it up, at least in my opinion, if your looking for raw power and racing type stuff, go with the 5", programmers and big fueling lift pump.
If this is just a work, occasional toy hauling truck, then I would bank your cash, get a DDRP (or something like that), 4" exhaust, cold air intake, and a set of gauges (FP,Boost,Pyro, and/or tranny temp). The rest is stuff you may never use/need.JMO
Sooo my MPG's were pretty good compared to what I heard left and right.
My truck is indeed mostly used as a work truck, and occasional Horse hauler.
I'm NOT looking to turn it into a sledpuller, or drag racer at all actually.
However the FASS DDRP is a fuel pump only, it does NOT have a separate water separator!
So I figured,......might aswell go ALL the way (seeing that the difference is only a few hundred) and install this thing>>> http://klmperformance.com/fass-fuel-...l%20Manual.pdf
At least I will be sure that my fuel is getting filtered and pressurized at once, before hitting my injector pump.
The cold air intake and maybe a 4" exhaust sounds like a plan aswell!
Believe it or not the ISSPRO Performax gauge kit with pillar is about the SAME PRICE as the EDGE ATTITUDE & BLUE CHIP FMS programmers!

anymore comments / hints / tips on this layout anyone?
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
agreed on the mileage gains, I never saw any improvements, maybe a mile but thats it.
can say truck has a whole lot more power with no loss of mileage.
you should look into the mechanical LP, a couple guys are running them, they will out last any electric pump out there, I have an Airdog and while it has outlasted regular LP's it is electric and can/will fail edventually. I installed an Airdog in Mar 08, it failed in Jan 09, after 65,000kms. Pureflow (airdog) sent me a second Airdog and this one since Jan 09 has 95,000kms and 2800hrs of use on it, I believe AD says their pumps rated life expectancy is 10,000hrs. my next pump will be mechanical.
on the gauges, as I've said before (many posts) I'm all for a monitored system (Edge J/A or ADR) because it does so much more than just gauges, as long as you dont mount the fuel sender on the VP and use a needle valve, your gauges will be fine, Just the ability to set boost/EGT/fuel pressure warnings and limits, make it an invaluable tool, worth every dollar. you dont need to tap the pump, and the box will still give you up to 60hp gain that is not so much that you will eat a tranny, but it will make towing your 5th wheel a much more pleasent experience. cant say where I have ever seen that a box(edge or ADR) ever messed up a truck, and if it ever did you can easily unhook it and your back to stock. the boxes modify the signal AFTER the ECM. a programmer is a different story as it re-writes your truck ECM. and some programmers have been known to fry an ECM
can say truck has a whole lot more power with no loss of mileage.
you should look into the mechanical LP, a couple guys are running them, they will out last any electric pump out there, I have an Airdog and while it has outlasted regular LP's it is electric and can/will fail edventually. I installed an Airdog in Mar 08, it failed in Jan 09, after 65,000kms. Pureflow (airdog) sent me a second Airdog and this one since Jan 09 has 95,000kms and 2800hrs of use on it, I believe AD says their pumps rated life expectancy is 10,000hrs. my next pump will be mechanical.
on the gauges, as I've said before (many posts) I'm all for a monitored system (Edge J/A or ADR) because it does so much more than just gauges, as long as you dont mount the fuel sender on the VP and use a needle valve, your gauges will be fine, Just the ability to set boost/EGT/fuel pressure warnings and limits, make it an invaluable tool, worth every dollar. you dont need to tap the pump, and the box will still give you up to 60hp gain that is not so much that you will eat a tranny, but it will make towing your 5th wheel a much more pleasent experience. cant say where I have ever seen that a box(edge or ADR) ever messed up a truck, and if it ever did you can easily unhook it and your back to stock. the boxes modify the signal AFTER the ECM. a programmer is a different story as it re-writes your truck ECM. and some programmers have been known to fry an ECM
I wish I was as fine, as those who work the pipeline!
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,639
Likes: 0
From: Wyoming
My truck is indeed mostly used as a work truck, and occasional Horse hauler.
I'm NOT looking to turn it into a sledpuller, or drag racer at all actually.
However the FASS DDRP is a fuel pump only, it does NOT have a separate water separator!
So I figured,......might aswell go ALL the way (seeing that the difference is only a few hundred) and install this thing>>> http://klmperformance.com/fass-fuel-...l%20Manual.pdf
At least I will be sure that my fuel is getting filtered and pressurized at once, before hitting my injector pump.
I'm NOT looking to turn it into a sledpuller, or drag racer at all actually.
However the FASS DDRP is a fuel pump only, it does NOT have a separate water separator!
So I figured,......might aswell go ALL the way (seeing that the difference is only a few hundred) and install this thing>>> http://klmperformance.com/fass-fuel-...l%20Manual.pdf
At least I will be sure that my fuel is getting filtered and pressurized at once, before hitting my injector pump.
I thought you could only do that with a 3rd gen, not a second gen. I filled up a big old crap bucket with that one...I tell ya what though, you are way ahead of the game with all the research you are doing. That is for sure!!
Going the "cheap-quick-fixway" is going to cost ya down the road, with yet another vp44 and liftpump to replace,...and again a bunch of $$$$$$
I dont know about you,....but I do NOT have a money tree in my back yard, so I can only spend it once.
Therefore I do as much research as I can,....to spend it as wisely as possible!
The FASS Heavy Duty pump with water/fuel separator filters idea is by the way OUT the door.
"Some-more" research showed that those pumps (FASS/AIRDOG) are NOT as reliable as the manufacturers promise!
Heck some of them leave you stranded within the first 20K!!!

Yeah the manufaturer will replace it for ya,....(when ya get home- to take the "old" one off) but at that given time,...it's very likely that you are still stranded in the middle of nowhere,....so how the heck will ya even get your truck "home" when it aint working?
So I'm looking into Mechanical Belt Driven Lift Pump Systems right now.
Sofar there is only two makes available in the USA: Mitusa & GDP Fuel Boss
Both systems use the factory "electrical" liftpump as BACKUP incase of failure/belt break - which apparently never happends according to reviews!
Seeing that my OEM LP is gone aswell I'll use the FASS DDRP as a "backup" pump.
But then,...most reviews are pretty old 2007 and older,.....sooo I'm very curious as to what the results are today with those systems!
Maybe I should make a separate thread for that.
GDP Fuel Boss info: http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...pf_id=FB-98502
MITUSA info: http://www.opieparts.com/
GDP water / fuel separator info:http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr..._id=FW1220-TFK
Even IF your drivebelt breaks in the middle of nowhere you can still make it back to the civilian world on your OEM (backup) or DDRP pump,...without frying up another VP44!
OR,...replace the belt with a new one and a minute later your good to GO!
I kinda wonder how the heck you would fix a FASS/AIRDOG system in the middle of nowhere without hauling a spare pump motor everywhere you go!
Heck FASS/AIRDOG don't even offer replacement motors!
FASS & AIRDOG are by the way the exact SAME systems too,....daddy and son split,...AIRDOG is daddy's,...FASS is his son's make,....other then that technically there is NO DIFFERENCE!
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
Might be psychological, but I like Big Honkin Air Filters. Do a search on BHAF, lots of good info. Found out that stuff AFTER I got my cold air intake too.
Wish I did before I bought my gauges!!!
I thought you could only do that with a 3rd gen, not a second gen. I filled up a big old crap bucket with that one...
I tell ya what though, you are way ahead of the game with all the research you are doing. That is for sure!!
Wish I did before I bought my gauges!!!
I thought you could only do that with a 3rd gen, not a second gen. I filled up a big old crap bucket with that one...I tell ya what though, you are way ahead of the game with all the research you are doing. That is for sure!!
Those filters are standard on tractors like:
-M.A.N,
-Freightliner,
-Scania,
-Westernstar,
-Peterbuilt,
-Kenworth,
-Volvo
And a whole bunch of mobile hydraulic cranes and crawler cranes!
Here's some Alternate BHAF (Big Honkin Air Filter) part numbers:
-Fleetguard AH19037
-NAPA 2790
-WIX 42790
-Baldwin PA2820
-Hastings AF1012
-Donaldson B105006
-Donaldson ECB15006
-Cummins 3912986
-Cummins 3924541
-Fleetguard AH19037
-Baldwin PA-2806 (metal housing)
-Baldwin PA2820
All of which are the very SAME,....but sell for a hell of alot LESS, at your local Tractor Parts Supply then what some "Diesel-Performance" companies want!
About $45 to $60 a piece at the very max!
Buy some "tubing" and clamps from your local hardware store for a few pennies and your DONE in under $80.00


As far as gauges go,....I was referring to ISSPRO's "Performax" gauges which is their top the line,....I.E: In cab temps have NO INFLUANCE on those gauges who have isolated inner works.
Thats why a full set of them is SO expensive, and come qua "total-cost" very close to the EDGE or Blue Chip diesel systems!
CHEAP gauges,...do NOT have that insulation and will therefore have a SERIOUS accuracy problem!
Which in turn CAN damage your engine and all involved parts!
Regards NICE_N_EEEZ
That is incorrect information, a court looked at the two units and decided that there was indeed enough of a difference that one could NOT be considered a copy of the other. In other words while they may look somewhat similar they have a different method of achieving their fuction... So TECHNICALLY THERE IS A DIFFERENCE!
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